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- May 25, 2014
I got to fire a MK23 at a charity gun shoot, thing was about the size of a deagle.
Mega Rad Gun Thread
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- Jun 9, 2016
those don't appear to be genuine Mk23, MARK 23, USSOCOM, or US-GOVT pistols. the LAM is vaguely similar to the phase 1 Insight prototype, and the upper pistol has the forward serrations on the phase 1 and 2 prototypes, but the markings are incorrect. the lower pistol has markings i've not seen before generally speaking, you would have a cage code only and that would be laser etched in placed, not whited in or however it is there. the KAC suppressor also lacks the weld marks between the pieces so i assume it's a faux suppressor. the lower pistol's frame is an odd color (lighting?), and seems to have the wrong marking on the grip.
it is about the length and height of a Desert Eagle (MK VII and MK XIX), but is narrower, barely wider than the USP. the Mk23 and USP were developed in parallel and the Mk23 took many queues from the USP.
my MARK 23 is a 90's commercial model, although i do still have the Wilcox "Nightstalker" kit (the MIL/LE variation rather than the commercial one).
[GALLERY=media, 2582]DSCF0593 by Club Sandwich posted Oct 8, 2016 at 3:36 AM[/GALLERY]
- Joined
- Mar 24, 2013
The photo I posted is just a grab from Google, not my own photo. Like I said, I don't have the pistol yet, but I should have it by the end of the month.
- Joined
- May 25, 2014
ooooh, very nice, the one I shot had the suppressor but didn't have the LAM, and I've wanted one ever since.
- Joined
- Jun 24, 2015
Damn, I really wish I could own that stuff.
You American don't know how lucky yous really are!
- Joined
- Nov 14, 2013
Alright, Kiwis, I'm looking to get into hunting, and need rifle suggestions. Now, I'm a little late for deer season, so I'm not looking to buy until the new year rolls around, but any suggestions? Completely new to shooting anything. Need a good starter rifle.
- Joined
- May 25, 2014
Cant go wrong with a Remington 700, they are inexpensive, easy to use, and chambered in a number of calibers.
- Joined
- Jun 9, 2016
depends on what you are hunting and how you are hunting. there are different seasons for black powder, bow, rifles, shotguns - not to mention different sorts of game: varmints, large fowl (turkey), small fowl (pheasant, quail, grouse), migratory (ducks, geese), medium game (white tail, mule deer), large game (bison, bighorn sheep, gators, boar, elk, moose, bear) and others like possum or pigeon that aren't neatly in a traditional category.
what most people think of "hunting" they're thinking of upland hunting where you have shotguns for migratory birds in the fall/winter and rifles or slugs for large ungulates in the "off season" of summer and early fall. big game/trophy hunting is a mid to late fall and is when you go for stag deer, bears, elk, moose. if turkeys and boar are more your thing, that's best in spring or early summer. very late winter is good for predators and certain types of gamebird.
anyway once you've picked something interesting or appealing do not buy anything. it's a sure way to waste time and money, and you are best served in feeling things out with a more experienced hunter or joining a guided hunt. i never recommend to my customers anything for hunting unless i get a solid answer that they're reasonably experienced.
i strongly suggest doing the following (in this order):
1. take a hunter safety course
2. get a hunting license appropriate for your area
3. familiarize yourself with your area and it's laws and seasons. local fish and game management or land management bureau will have information on this.
4. find an experienced hunter and ask to tag along - don't ask to shoot, don't bring a gun, or
anything. just tag along on a hunt (offer to pay gas or something) and say you want to see if it's something you want to get into. most people are friendly and wouldn't mind the company.
5. rent a couple guns and familiarize yourself with safety at a range under supervision.
maybe try out a pistol, shotgun, tactical rifle, and hunting rifle. start with a .22LR, then 9mm, 5.56, and .308. for the shotgun try 12 gauge but ask for low recoil loads (or if they don't have that ask for birdshot) and see what you feel comfortable shooting repeatedly. see if one eye is better than the other. get rid of bad habits you might have picked up from movies or something.
6. if you tagged along on a hunt and are now interested and serious about bagging something for yourself, ask to borrow a gun from him and under his supervision learn the trade. pay for hit ammo in exchange maybe. with luck, you'll bring something home you shot and can practice some cooking and smoking.
7. now that you have some idea of where you are and where you want to be, get some gear. when the time comes you'll know what i mean. nothing heavy, but be practical. choose a gun appropriate for you and your local laws, in a cartridge appropriate for your game and that's legal (hunting often has restrictions on ammunition type and quantity).
8. on your own first hunt, start with something small and work your way up. if you want to bag 12 point stags, start with mule deer in the early season and just get one. you'll have your chance, but this first season or two is to put what you've picked up on the past year to the test.
honestly the easiest "beginner" hunting i've done was taking people out for pest control - turkeys and coyotes mostly. less restrictions, game is plentiful, and good opportunities to practice hunting etiquette, fieldcraft, and safety. take what i said with a grain of salt and read read read up on hunting - online or in magazines (people like telling stories and talking about the technical side of things too). i've been hunting pretty much all my life in a lot of places and have bagged a lot of game, but i'm just one guy.
small anecdote, but when i was a boy, learning to hunt was following your dad out into the field a couple times a year for a year or two, then trying out a couples shots at tin cans on a fence with some beater rifle from Sears or Western Auto. after that, come winter, you get to put food on the table... or you and your family go a little hungry that season and you're eating beans, lentils, and potatoes instead of venison, grouse, and pork. that tends to not happen much these days outside of Appalachia or out in the boonies.
indeed. also i would like to add the Savage Model 10 (and the 99), Marlin 336, Ruger Model 77, Winchester Model 70, and the Howa 1500. however there is a dizzying array of options for these models, in the same way that there are tons of variety in cars, with options like chambering, barrel length, stock, bedding, glass, crowning, magazine, trigger, mounts for accessories, et c. i won't even touch on the equal amount of shotguns to choose from either.
some less common ones that have less options but i feel are wonderful hunting rifles are the Benelli R1, the various surplus Springfield 1903's, Krag's, Mausers, and Mosins.
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- Joined
- May 25, 2015
Please don't kill doggo, ATF.
This is The Document, a little something I've been compiling lately. As a note, most of the DIY firearms have blocked or fake barrels/no firing pins/bolts out of specification (legal reasons) - you'll need to alter those little details.
The .22 Pipe Pistol, however, is ready to go from the moment it's built.
This is The Document, a little something I've been compiling lately. As a note, most of the DIY firearms have blocked or fake barrels/no firing pins/bolts out of specification (legal reasons) - you'll need to alter those little details.
The .22 Pipe Pistol, however, is ready to go from the moment it's built.
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- Joined
- Jun 9, 2016
just a quick cautionary note that when building your own firearms, especially expedient ones, you should test fire safely with a remote trigger arrangement. i like to make a couple slip knots in a string of sufficient length and stand behind some scrap steel or sheet of lexan or plyboard a half dozen yards back and have the firearms fixed in a ransom rest or vice with some plyboard set up to catch shrapnel.
also making your own firearms, assuming you aren't transferring them to someone else and it's a Title I firearm (typically a handgun, shotgun, or rifle but not a machinegun, short barrel shotgun/rifle, any other weapon, or explosive) is perfectly legal pretty much any where in the US. some states require registration or ban specific features, but the firearm itself is generally okay.
- Joined
- Mar 9, 2015
There's really no way to safely test a slam fire/4 winds I'm aware of. I still have my face and shoulder intact though so I would say so far I have a pretty good tract record.
I agree on being safe and giving a blast radius to test. I do this even with "proper" builds like an 80% lower build AR vs some home brew weapons.
I agree on being safe and giving a blast radius to test. I do this even with "proper" builds like an 80% lower build AR vs some home brew weapons.
- Joined
- Jun 9, 2016
one method i can think of involves making a fixture with a spring and release lever. integrating such a spring into the firearm is halfway towards an open bolt weapon.
- Joined
- Mar 24, 2013
There were two LAMs made specifically for the Mark 23, and both are out of production. The LAM made by Wilcox is the most sought after model and usually goes for much more than a new Mark 23 pistol when they come up for sale used. There is a rail adaptor available for the Mark 23 that allows the user to mount any light or laser tag will fit on most modern pistol rails. I plan on getting one of those and mounting one of the new Steiner light/laser units that has a green visible laser, Class 1 IR laser, visible flashlight, and IR flashlight, and then having a custom holster made that will fit the pistol with the adaptor and LAM unit mounted.
- Joined
- Aug 21, 2016
- Joined
- Mar 24, 2013
Well, it goes against my Fudd sensibilities, but damned if he isn't a handsome fella
You need to come over to the Dark Side of black weapons with synthetic furniture and high capacity magazines and take a break from that blued and wood stuff for a while. I like more mundane firearms like revolvers, hunting rifles, and especially firearms from the late 1800's as much as anyone, but evil black guns are just too much fun, man.
Also, I bought a new hard pistol case yesterday when I picked up my Mark 23. It's not quite as nice as a Pelican case, but it offers many of the same features, is much nicer than the cheap Plano cases and the plastic cases my pistols came in, and it's large enough to accommodate both my handguns plus one spare magazine each.
- Joined
- Mar 9, 2015
Someone give me 7.7 jap please 
Going to a shoot there's gonna be at least 5 99s and we are gonna need to do a Banzi charge. So giddy, autism and guns does life get any better?
Going to a shoot there's gonna be at least 5 99s and we are gonna need to do a Banzi charge. So giddy, autism and guns does life get any better?
- Joined
- Jun 9, 2016
Boyt cases are alright, i usually use Hardigg/Pelican cases or the less expensive Seahorse cases for all sorts of things. don't forget that travel cases for speakers or stereo equipment often comes up for cheap on ebay or craigslist and they are excellent transport containers for firearms, tools, or even large electronics or appliances.
here's a little secret i use to make professionally fitted foam for my customers:
1. choose an appropriate case to meet your needs and the accessories you would like to transport. try to lay them out on some butcher paper in a pleasing and relevent arrangement. keep in mind that most cases are 2-3 inches deep so things like magazines can sit on edge just fin to save on vertical room. likewise leave about 1/4" of excess around your gear to allow for some impact protection.
2. choose closed cell foam, not open cell foam. closed cell foam, or memory foam, or various forms of polymer bonded foam (polystyrene, polyethylene, polypropylene, neoprene, et c) is highly resistant to damage from exposure to solvents, corrosives (within reason), UV, and is just plain durable. likewise it is very firm and will not absorb and trap moisture, meaning less chance of rust. open cell foam (egg carton types used in less expensive cases) is breathable and light weight, but it isn't durable generally, and it can stain and absorb moisture - this property can hold moisture against metal, inviting oxidation. i personally use polyethylene closed cell foam from the Foam Factory in MI. for gun cases, an appropriately sized sheet about 1/2" thick (or whatever depth is appropriate for your application) for the bottom as a "backer", a 1-1/2" thick piece for the "carrier" and a 1/4" thick piece for the lid is sufficient for nearly all firearms i've encountered.
3. once you get the foam you will want to fit it for your case - this is done by trimming:
3a. using some thin cardboard, trim it with scissors or a razor to fit the interior - just below flush of the top edge of the bottom half of the case. often cases taper slightly as they get deeper, that can be trimmed with sanding paper or a knife - we need the OD of the top facing though. repeat this with the top half of the case.
3b. now lay out your gear on the cardboard and trace around it with a marker or something. remember that things have depth so don't be afraid to stand magazines on edge. you will also want to add notches for your fingers to fish things out of the foam. once you're happy with the layout, cut out the shapes you traced. these will be cutting templates for your foam.
4. choose your cutting tool and prepare it. you can use an electric carving knife to cut the excess, or a scroll saw (at the lowest speed). or if you're like me and want to be weird, you can hook a spare 12V car battery to a bit of very stiff, thin wire (i use stainless steel MIG 0.8mm welding wire) suspended in a nonconducting fixture. add a sheet of plyboard as a table to make a hot cutting wire "scroll saw". obviously the battery should be fused and have an switch for on/off, et c - be safe.
5. tack or similarly affix the templates your made onto your foam carrier - the backer is to be left uncut. they must not flex or move during cutting. ideally you will want to cut a pilot hole with a sharp tool to allow fishing of a wire or other implement through.
6. now you cut the foam out - i usually cut a slit at a flat edge of the template, fish my little scroll saw hot wire through, then turn it on and begin cutting the foam. the hot wire seals the edges of the foam and it won't burn unless left on for 20 minutes or so without moving so you can take your time. when you're done cutting one section, please do not remove the foam "plug" until all your cutting is done. the foam plug will give rigidity to the rest of the foam for better cutting results.
7. once done and cleaned up, remove the foam plugs, glue or otherwise fix the carrier foam you cut to the backer - this adds rigidity and strength to the carrier as well as looks nice. the top can be relieved slightly and left as-is, but i like to cut a slot in it so i can stick manuals or other papers in the top part. if your case is deep enough, consider making a "double decker" and have another carrier/backer combo and have some notches at the edges to act as handles to lift the upper combo up and out. handy for boxed ammunition or accessories.
[GALLERY=media, 2642]Diagram by Club Sandwich posted Oct 29, 2016 at 4:29 AM[/GALLERY]
[GALLERY=media, 2643]foam case example by Club Sandwich posted Oct 29, 2016 at 4:39 AM[/GALLERY]
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