Mega Rad Gun Thread

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Spudnik said:
Hey guys, I'm totally a gun newbie, and was wondering if I could ask a question.

I picked up a 1973 Ruger Single Six new-model, and took it to a range, put 100 rounds of CCI Mini-mag through it. No issues there, but afterwards the cylinder looked like this.
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cylinder burn comes from shooting unhardened lead over a period of time with a normal powder charge (so not target loads) or from using HV .22 ammo and leaving a lot of unburned powder. the lead particles and unburned powder combined with carbon from the ignition leaves a ring of high pressure soot between the cylinder face and the forcing cone. this is normal in nearly all revolvers that lack a gas seal - it will be slightly shiny and slick to the touch but will not come off easily (lead-away will remove it... along with the bluing. as will vinegar, naval jelly, acetone, ATF, break cleaner, mineral spirits, kerosene, and other solvents).

that looks like normal lead rings, and isn't harmful - the cleanliness of the ring indicates a good cylinder gap with little end shake or play. if they were star shaped, off center, or "feathered" at the edges i would be a little more worried.

if you want to remove them without damaging the bluing (old models without the transfer bar were blued or nickel, but new models could be blued, stainless with black oxide or epoxy finish, satin, or nickel). use a rag with Hoppe's #9 and apply gentle pressure with your finger to "twist" the bluing off. it takes little pressure as it's "baked" on with heat and pressure, but lacks any mechanical locking or chemical bonding.

lead-away cloths, flitz, mother's mag polish, et c will remove the bluing. do not use them on blued firearms.
 
Club Sandwich said:
cylinder burn comes from shooting unhardened lead over a period of time with a normal powder charge (so not target loads) or from using HV .22 ammo and leaving a lot of unburned powder. the lead particles and unburned powder combined with carbon from the ignition leaves a ring of high pressure soot between the cylinder face and the forcing cone. this is normal in nearly all revolvers that lack a gas seal - it will be slightly shiny and slick to the touch but will not come off easily (lead-away will remove it... along with the bluing. as will vinegar, naval jelly, acetone, ATF, break cleaner, mineral spirits, kerosene, and other solvents).

that looks like normal lead rings, and isn't harmful - the cleanliness of the ring indicates a good cylinder gap with little end shake or play. if they were star shaped, off center, or "feathered" at the edges i would be a little more worried.

if you want to remove them without damaging the bluing (old models without the transfer bar were blued or nickel, but new models could be blued, stainless with black oxide or epoxy finish, satin, or nickel). use a rag with Hoppe's #9 and apply gentle pressure with your finger to "twist" the bluing off. it takes little pressure as it's "baked" on with heat and pressure, but lacks any mechanical locking or chemical bonding.

lead-away cloths, flitz, mother's mag polish, et c will remove the bluing. do not use them on blued firearms.
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Ah! this is really fantastic information, thank you so much!:)

Maybe i'm using the wrong terminology, but it's pretty hard to find good information online(there's a good amount of "Fuddlore" as well). I'll pick up some Hoppes and try it out...all I have on me is Froglube, which I don't think really cleans that well (seems to get "gummy" too). Anyway, since i'm sure it's blued, i'll be careful cleaning it and report back.

Man, maybe I should have gotten a 1895 Nagant revolver, they don't have these issues haha.
 
Spudnik said:
Ah! this is really fantastic information, thank you so much!:)

Maybe i'm using the wrong terminology, but it's pretty hard to find good information online(there's a good amount of "Fuddlore" as well). I'll pick up some Hoppes and try it out...all I have on me is Froglube, which I don't think really cleans that well (seems to get "gummy" too). Anyway, since i'm sure it's blued, i'll be careful cleaning it and report back.

Man, maybe I should have gotten a 1895 Nagant revolver, they don't have these issues haha.
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there is a lot of weird information out there that is more anecdotal than technical. there's a difference in that what works for one may not be correct for another. Hoppe's has been making oils and solvents for firearms since the late 1800's. it's a trusted name along with Ballistol and Kroil. the one you would want is #9 solvent, the oil's okay too if used lightly (a drop or two at wear points, enough to be slick and shiny, but not enough to run/drip/stain).

FrogLube is a "CLP" - cleaner, lubricant, preservative, and was originally designed for maritime use on general purpose machineguns. it's very good at doing that over Lubriplate, which tends to get crusty when exposed to salty air. while it does work (personally i prefer Break-Free CLP over FrogLube as an all-in-one) it isn't really meant for revolvers or handguns.

because it's also commonly found in stores (and i sell it in my store along with FrogLube among others), Rem-Oil is a thin, light machine oil (like sewing machine oil for Singers) useful for hunters to have a quick spray and wipe in the morning before going out hunting. it isn't meant to be used for storage or as a general purpose CLP.

for my personal revolvers, i mostly just use Break-Free CLP and wipe clean - the rings show the revolver is shot and do not harm anything. they are a nice indicator of wear on the forcing cone or of problems with timing or lock up, so i like to use them as mining canary's for that. if you prefer an aerosol, try out Ballistol as an all-around CLP with a little on a cloth for wiping.

the 1895 Nagant revolver has it's own issues. the gas seal is nice, but fixed cylinder and loading gate i find annoying. to use. the swing out or break-top is my preference. one major advantage of a fixed cylinder is how strong the frame can be for wildcat loads. A Redhawk in something mean, like .460 Rowland for example.
 
Club Sandwich said:
the 1895 Nagant revolver has it's own issues. the gas seal is nice, but fixed cylinder and loading gate i find annoying. to use. the swing out or break-top is my preference. one major advantage of a fixed cylinder is how strong the frame can be for wildcat loads. A Redhawk in something mean, like .460 Rowland for example.
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You don't really see too many break-top revolvers these days. I got to see a Webley revolver my uncle was working on, and man, that thing was cool. I'm still getting used to shooting, especially since I don't get to do it much at all...i'm pretty sure .460 would break my wrist haha. Though I did consider a blackhawk in 357 mag before settling on the Single six, since I figured i'd fire it more.

Anyway, Used the Hoppes #9, got about 95% of the lead off, bluing is still fine underneath, but it takes forever. Think i'll clean it every now and then, and not worry about it as much, no way am I doing this every 100 rounds. Your info is great, really appreciate it!:heart-full:
 
I'm a big fan of just using small (very small) amounts of synthetic motor oil for most gun stuff because I find that it never drys out. The down side is that it does have a smell to it and is easy to use WAY to much until you get a feel for it.
 
waffle said:
I'm a big fan of just using small (very small) amounts of synthetic motor oil for most gun stuff because I find that it never drys out. The down side is that it does have a smell to it and is easy to use WAY to much until you get a feel for it.
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i have been known to use Royal Purple 5W30 in "oily rag wipe down" amounts on guns that dislike Lubriplate and when i'm low on CLP (or the temperature is too low for it). besides the smell the other downside is viscosity - motor oils are meant to be used under heat and pressure to ensure certain characteristics, and are often used in a sealed environment because they can very easy become gunked up with debris (sand, dust, pollen) and turn into a sticky sap-like substance.

remember, the goal of oiling to preserve is to have enough to leave a shiny surface, but not enough to drip, run, or stain. to oil for lubrication, you want typically a single drop between two contact points, and then those points are worked together to spread the oil across the surface, creating a boundary layer of lubrication.

Kroil, Break-Free CLP, Hoppe's #9, Ballistol, they're all good. for those that like buying one type of oil cheap for multiple products, get 3-in-1 at Sears or Tractor Supply. Singer's Machine Oil is equally as good and doesn't get tacky and gummy in dusty environments. 3-in-1 is used on pretty much any small motor, from chainsaws, to lawnmowers, to deli slicers.
 
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Spudnik said:
Hm, didn't seem to help too much(:_(. I'll send a pic to my uncle, see if he's seen something like this before. Didn't know that about lead though!

To distract from my idiocy and get back to the main topic, here's a family photo;
View attachment 135782
Top is a Daisy Avanti 499, just a BB gun, but a pretty nice one, as far as they go.
Middle is a CZ 455 american with a Nikon Prostaff scope
And the bottom is the aforementioned Ruger Single six that's giving me grief.
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That's a nice CZ. I really like CZ's products. I had an SP-01 9mm that I really enjoyed and would love to have another. I also really want one of their .22lr bolt action rifles, the one with the long barrel and military-style tangent rear sight. Wouldn't mind a Skorpion EVO 3 with a blade-style arm brace.
 
CZs are great I really want to snag the 7.62x39 bolt action they make a bit snazzier than the rest of my deer guns that are cobbled together by either drunken slavic peasants or starved POWs. Plus I dig the x39 round.
 
The Dude said:
That's a nice CZ. I really like CZ's products. I had an SP-01 9mm that I really enjoyed and would love to have another. I also really want one of their .22lr bolt action rifles, the one with the long barrel and military-style tangent rear sight.
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Thanks! You're probably thinking of the 455 training rifle, I saw one in Buds once, and man, if I hadn't just bought my 455 American, I would have gotten it. Those things are long though. The really great thing about the CZ rimfires, compared to a marlin/savage is the overbuilt action, since it can handle .17hmr/.22wmr with a barrel swap. The bolt has a nice "big-gun" feel, if that makes sense. The other thing is the trigger is really nice. It doesn't have an accu-trigger like the savage Mark II's, but it doesn't need one anyway.

Pretty expensive for a rimfire, but worth it for sure. When I bought it earlier this year, I thought "I'm only going to own one gun, so i'll buy a nice one and be done"...three months later I bought the ruger "I'll only buy one handgun so i'll get a nice one". I already know i've lied to myself, because eventually I'll justify buying a luger, somehow,...the itch is already there(:_(
 
Spudnik said:
Thanks! You're probably thinking of the 455 training rifle, I saw one in Buds once, and man, if I hadn't just bought my 455 American, I would have gotten it. Those things are long though. The really great thing about the CZ rimfires, compared to a marlin/savage is the overbuilt action, since it can handle .17hmr/.22wmr with a barrel swap. The bolt has a nice "big-gun" feel, if that makes sense. The other thing is the trigger is really nice. It doesn't have an accu-trigger like the savage Mark II's, but it doesn't need one anyway.

Pretty expensive for a rimfire, but worth it for sure. When I bought it earlier this year, I thought "I'm only going to own one gun, so i'll buy a nice one and be done"...three months later I bought the ruger "I'll only buy one handgun so i'll get a nice one". I already know i've lied to myself, because eventually I'll justify buying a luger, somehow,...the itch is already there(:_(
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I used to have around 65 firearms I'm my collection after I inherited my Dad's collection when he passed away. Three years of unemployment and that collection went down to five. Since I started working again I've been trying to build my collection back up, though I doubt I'll ever have that many again. I need the past couple years I've bought a Ruger American Rimfire rifle in .22lr, a Steyr AUG A3, a Lewis Machine and Tool MWS308, a SIG Sauer 226 TacOps in 9mm, a CMMG Mutant AR in 7.62x39mm that takes AK magazines, and I'm currently building myself a Mk14 MOD 0 clone using an LRB barreled action. After I've got the Mk14 built I'll be buying an STI Perfect Ten which is a double stack 1911 in 10mm Auto and a .45 ACP pistol, probably an HK USP Tactical or HK45C Tactical or a GLOCK 41 MOS. Then I need to get optics for all my rifles. I've been approaching the new collection with a "quality over quantity" mindset. I also bought my son a Mossberg lever action .22 for his birthday.
 
I just got myself the SGM Tactical 25 shell drum magazine for the Vepr-12 last week. It functions flawlessly, as long as the ammo is over 3 dram equivalent in power. Some semi-auto shotguns have trouble cycling light target loads like the Winchester Super-X that you'd see in 100 round bulk packs at Wal-Mart. With high brass 12 gauge of any sort, it runs like a dream.

20160918_150625.jpg
 
Nice looking gun. If you want to shoot lower powered stuff there's a lot of adjustable gas regulators for those on the market.
 
My SAGE chassis arrived today. I tried to install it, but the receiver fits really snug into it and won't seat low enough for the trigger group to lock in. I'll take a closer look at it when I get home and see if I can tap it down with a rubber mallet. I may have to file away some metal on the chassis itself to get it to fit right. Hopefully it doesn't come to that.

I've ordered a Vortex flash suppressor for it and it should be here tomorrow. Aside from more magazines and other accessories like a sling and glass, and getting it CeraKoted, my rifle is done. Next will be to save up for my STI Perfect Ten 10mm and a .45 pistol, either a Heckler and Koch USP Tactical or HK45C Tactical, or a GLOCK G41 MOS. Then it'll be optics for all my rifles and I'll be done with firearms for a little while.
 
waffle said:
Nice looking gun. If you want to shoot lower powered stuff there's a lot of adjustable gas regulators for those on the market.
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The Vepr-12 is mostly self regulating, you're thinking of the Saiga-12. Different gas pucks and recoil springs exist for use with the cheap stuff with the Vepr though. Just don't use them with full power loads for fear of damaging your shotgun.
 
I dig the VEPR-12. I'm not big on scatter guns, but the VEP is one I'm strongly considering getting. Most likely I'll get a Remington 870 Marine Magnum for my first combat shotgun. The aftermarket and support for it is second to none. It's the gold standard for combat scatter guns. The Remington 11-87 is high on my consideration list as well.
 
The Dude said:
I dig the VEPR-12. I'm not big on scatter guns, but the VEP is one I'm strongly considering getting. Most likely I'll get a Remington 870 Marine Magnum for my first combat shotgun. The aftermarket and support for it is second to none. It's the gold standard for combat scatter guns. The Remington 11-87 is high on my consideration list as well.
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Personally, I would recommend the Vepr-12 for anyone who generally prefers rifles, and is willing to shell out a few bucks more than normal. It is just a heavier Kalashnikov frame modified to take 12 gauge, that's all. So if you're familiar with AKs it's an obvious transition. Even the sights are largely the same, so with a little tweaking you can adjust at your range of choice and use it like you would a rifle. I do.

I'm going to eventually get an RPK leather sling, if I can find one, and a PK-AW Red Dot Scope for the Vepr-12. Then it will be perfect for me.

http://kalinkaoptics.com/pk-a-military-fast-acquisition-red-dot-rifle-scope-weaver-version.html

As far as shotguns go, I would definitely recommend one to a first time firearm purchaser if they just want something "for the house" or just want to shoot on a budget. The first thing I ever shot was a Remington 870 by the way, and I have nothing bad to say about Remington pumps. I considered an 11-87 before I discovered the Vepr-12 to be honest, but I'm happy I got what I did, not many of them around.

Any images of your MK-14 coming along?

Spudnik said:
Hm, didn't seem to help too much(:_(. I'll send a pic to my uncle, see if he's seen something like this before. Didn't know that about lead though!

To distract from my idiocy and get back to the main topic, here's a family photo;
View attachment 135782
Top is a Daisy Avanti 499, just a BB gun, but a pretty nice one, as far as they go.
Middle is a CZ 455 american with a Nikon Prostaff scope
And the bottom is the aforementioned Ruger Single six that's giving me grief.
Click to expand...

Nice family there, man. Is that a peep sight on the Daisy? I've thought about getting one for my PSL build. The iron sights are actually a weak point on the AK family to some degree.
 
Duke Nukem said:
Nice family there, man. Is that a peep sight on the Daisy? I've thought about getting one for my PSL build. The iron sights are actually a weak point on the AK family to some degree.
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Thanks!

Yeah, the Daisy* comes with a peep sight rear, and a globe front sight with different inserts (it's supposedly "the most accurate BB gun made"). Now, in terms of Guns, i'm a recently "reformed liberal" so I don't have much practical knowledge on peep sights, but I like them well enough. Certainly seems to cut down on the time it takes to line up everything on a target. I suspect it's more of a personal choice than anything though. If the iron sights are lousy, i'd say it's definitely worth looking into.

Gotta say, I don't think there's an ugly Vepr or PSL that i've seen. Handsome rifles.

*As an aside I think it's pretty funny that Daisy made the first modern production rifle that used caseless ammunition, the Daisy V/L. They made them from 1968-69, when the ATF labeled it legally a firearm, which Daisy doesn't have a license to make. My uncle showed me some rounds once, and they're pretty goofy (not my picture, mind you);
vl%20002.jpg_thumbnail1.jpg
 
Well I got my Mk14 together. Still waiting on the Vortex flash suppressor and the gas system shim kit. I'll be getting the chassis CeraKoted in the next week or two depending on funds.

Here's how The Bitch looks so far.

20160923_021211.jpg


20160923_021233.jpg
 
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