Mega Rad Gun Thread

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Speaking of hand cannons, I just spotted this rare bastard on a gun auction site here. Yes, an AMT Automag in .30 cal. No, I'm not buying it. Wouldn't mind a Hardballer Longslide 45 though, laser and all.
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a lot of the early all-stainless handguns from AMT and others had some serious galling issues from a combination of fitment and hardness and lack of finish treatment after hardening. be careful of new and used and check that it's made after 1982 or so to avoid it entirely (they started providing a softer frame and kept the hardened slide rails with more clearance to avoid the issue after this point).
 
a lot of the early all-stainless handguns from AMT and others had some serious galling issues from a combination of fitment and hardness and lack of finish treatment after hardening. be careful of new and used and check that it's made after 1982 or so to avoid it entirely (they started providing a softer frame and kept the hardened slide rails with more clearance to avoid the issue after this point).
I have heard that it's not rare for these things to require some gunsmithing, even out of the box, and also that they will like some kind of grease for lubrication, rather than oils or other lubes.
 
How much is the bid?
No price listed, probably one of those "if you have to ask you probably can't afford it" deals. His post just asked for people to give him an offer.

a lot of the early all-stainless handguns from AMT and others had some serious galling issues from a combination of fitment and hardness and lack of finish treatment after hardening. be careful of new and used and check that it's made after 1982 or so to avoid it entirely (they started providing a softer frame and kept the hardened slide rails with more clearance to avoid the issue after this point).
It's a curious gun from a historical and a technological standpoint, but would be a safe queen if I ever got it, don't see it getting too much range time. Been mostly shooting 22LR lately, got a fun little Soviet-made target pistol, the Margolin MCM. Also known as the Princess Leia blaster, looks about like this. Popular with Olympic shooters and pretty much anyone who did target shooting in the USSR, it's rather simple and precise.
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I have heard that it's not rare for these things to require some gunsmithing, even out of the box, and also that they will like some kind of grease for lubrication, rather than oils or other lubes.
correct, for many automatic pistols that have large bearing surfaces, a lithium or molybdenum grease is generally preferred over oils. a light dab in wearing areas is generally sufficient. if you need it to stay in an area under high pressure or small clearance, then there are high pressure variations of the same greases that work well. oil is usually good for protecting finished areas or surfaces that will allow capillary action to wick oil into very small areas where movement is critical. oil for the extractor recess, grease for slide rails, oil for the outside surface, grease for the locking lug.

some firearms will use oil regardless, the AR-15 for example is pointless to use grease as the action is lightweight and must be able to move quickly with minimal resistance and avoid accumulating debris, which grease will do over time.
 
correct, for many automatic pistols that have large bearing surfaces, a lithium or molybdenum grease is generally preferred over oils. a light dab in wearing areas is generally sufficient. if you need it to stay in an area under high pressure or small clearance, then there are high pressure variations of the same greases that work well. oil is usually good for protecting finished areas or surfaces that will allow capillary action to wick oil into very small areas where movement is critical. oil for the extractor recess, grease for slide rails, oil for the outside surface, grease for the locking lug.

some firearms will use oil regardless, the AR-15 for example is pointless to use grease as the action is lightweight and must be able to move quickly with minimal resistance and avoid accumulating debris, which grease will do over time.
How about dry moly lube? Been using it on shotgun action bars and a few other places that tend to attract dirt. Edit: It's the Birchwood Casey one.
 
Been mostly shooting 22LR lately, got a fun little Soviet-made target pistol, the Margolin MCM. Also known as the Princess Leia blaster, looks about like this. Popular with Olympic shooters and pretty much anyone who did target shooting in the USSR, it's rather simple and precise.
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Oh, these things are so homely and charming! I hear they're still pretty common in Eastern Europe, because they were popular back in their day and hold up well, so you'll still see these things on ranges and in matches, because they're inexpensive and just work.

The obvious factoid to mention is also that Mikhail Margolin, who designed this pistol, was blinded when he was young and would THEN become a mechanical engineer specializing in firearms, designing many good target pistols. Never saw any of his designs, extremely fascinating man.
 
Oh, these things are so homely and charming! I hear they're still pretty common in Eastern Europe, because they were popular back in their day and hold up well, so you'll still see these things on ranges and in matches, because they're inexpensive and just work.

The obvious factoid to mention is also that Mikhail Margolin, who designed this pistol, was blinded when he was young and would THEN become a mechanical engineer specializing in firearms, designing many good target pistols. Never saw any of his designs, extremely fascinating man.
I think mine is from the 50's/60's and still shoots like a champ. They were built as club pistols, designed to take a lot of shots. No hyper velocity rounds in this one though, I'm mostly feeding it subsonics.

It is a fascinating story how it was designed, yeah. Here's some more info.

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How about dry moly lube? Been using it on shotgun action bars and a few other places that tend to attract dirt. Edit: It's the Birchwood Casey one.
for a very long time, shotguns had their own grease (still sold today under several labels, but Pro-Shot Gold is the most popular) as it was among the first all-synthetic greases that were not water soluble. these days it's not that big of a thing, but it's why silicon-based greases are preferred for "hunting" guns (alongside emulsified wax as a sealant) specifically for wetland hunting, or when tracking game on a mountain gun that might regularly be exposed to rainwater. Remoil is also a silicon-based lubricant and pairs well with a bore solvent (if needed) and grease or wax. dry film lubricants (or lubricants that dry to a solid after application) have largely replaced this sort of "greasy" thinking, and other than some select areas, you'll find that molybdenum disulphide based dry libricants will work pretty good overall, but they have some limitations:

dry molybdenum films (either the bake-on or aerosol style) work by depositing on top of the existing surface and "grab" or "bond" onto that surface in some manner. they tend to work best if you heat the metal slightly prior to application. the dry, solid film it creates is a strong barrier with low friction. the downside is that it adds material so cannot be used for dimensionally critical parts (locking lugs, some very precise actions), and is prone to chipping, flaking and scratches in harsher climates. if breached, it can also hide rust that forms under the film, making inspection difficult, but "good" wear can simply be inspected and the film re-applied. for small clearance areas like bolt carriers or the inside of a receiver it's great too. CRC dry lubricant is pretty good for places that are wear points like action bars, the inside of magazines, recoil assemblies, the outside of a barrel or receiver, the interior of a receiver where action rails interact with a bolt carrier, handles, et c, where inspection is easy, and re-application is also easy. i'm not sure i would recommend it for areas that experience a lot of pressure, or bearing surfaces, or surfaces that suffer from impact rather than sheer movements.

dry lubricant isn't a replacement for normal oiling procedures in some areas or using grease in others. bearings on belt-fed weapons, the chrome-plated parts of an AR-15 gas system (molybdenum will increase friction on hard chrome... Teflon would reduce friction). dry film lubricants also don't play nice with high polished surfaces, so for those with shiny revolver finishes or something, it will dull over time and oxygen exposure.

Break-Free CLP includes Teflon as it's dry lubricant, and Teflon is thin enough to use in some critical areas, and is one of the most common all-in-one lubricants on the market today. using it in an AR-15 is almost a matter of course, but there are places where you want one or two drop of actual oil rather than just CLP (the bolt itself, or inside the carrier), or why you need to soak a patch in CLP (bore) vs one or two light coats buffed clean (exterior surfaces). CLP is a mediocre solvent, a pretty good protectant, and a mediocre oil. but it's one product vs three, and has the benefit of price and availability.

i say this last part because while dry films have largely replaced old school grease or traditional oil, the old methods are still valid and in some cases preferred over all-in-one solutions, or where you need specific properties of a solvent (scrubbing out an old bore of unknown condition) or an oil (lightly lubricating a competition gun before a match) or a grease (giving a once over on an M1A prior to a hunt).
 
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Are Otis usually the overall best as far as cleaning equipment goes for AR 15s?
they are very complete and are generally of very good quality. some of the larger kits can be annoying to work with due to the size of the case they come in. Otis has been an OEM military supplier of cleaning kits for a couple decades now and makes a good product.

could you assemble your own kit from select tools and consumables and put them in an appropriate container for field use? yes, however it is unlikely to be less expensive and still be as compact. some of Otis' larger, multi-gun kits seem a little excessive and pointless, and the specific bore pull-throughs (which have been in use since the 50's and even earlier) are likewise a bit overpriced compared to a less expensive and arguably more pocket-friendly Hoppe's Bore Snake.

remember, the AR-15 (and M16), only needs a bullet, a sectional rod, a couple patches, some CLP (or LSA if you're old enough), and a chamber brush. most guns will do fine with just that arrangement for their particular caliber or action and all of that together is under $20 plus an old cotton shirt.
 
Will be interesting to see this redcoat shithead try to lie his way out of this.
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It will be interesting at the very least to see what his biggest lie will be during the hearing. It will be interesting to see how hard the Dems run interference for him too. Especially sense the AGs from 20 states have already sent letters to congress saying "fuck this guy".
 
It will be interesting at the very least to see what his biggest lie will be during the hearing. It will be interesting to see how hard the Dems run interference for him too. Especially sense the AGs from 20 states have already sent letters to congress saying "fuck this guy".
Republicans are cucks if they don't show this picture and explicitly say, "you are willing to kill kids to enforce gun control, which you say is 'for the children'".
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I'm prepared for the worst. This faggot hasn't been hit with any rape or racism accusations yet so the GOP are automatically dickless faggot troons in my estimation. If you won't stoop to play dirty to level the playing field, you won't win.
 
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