Mega Rad Gun Thread

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Meat Target said:
75B is that the firing pin retaining pin will get chewed up if you dry fire it too much
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it should be a split pin that's hollow and oriented towards the top so when the hammer moves forward, it is sprung and flexible. otherwise a solid retaining pin made of strong steel would be preferred. Cajun Gun Works has such an upgrade if you like. the 75B's firing schedule has the retaining pin as a consumable part every 3,000 rounds btw and called for cheap mild steel to be used for lowered manufacturing costs as part of the military tender.
 
Club Sandwich said:
it should be a split pin that's hollow and oriented towards the top so when the hammer moves forward, it is sprung and flexible. otherwise a solid retaining pin made of strong steel would be preferred. Cajun Gun Works has such an upgrade if you like. the 75B's firing schedule has the retaining pin as a consumable part every 3,000 rounds btw and called for cheap mild steel to be used for lowered manufacturing costs as part of the military tender.
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I already bought a few spares from CZ Custom, but thanks.
 
Badungus Kabungus said:
Get a Glock Field Knife, they're utilitarian and unkillable. It may be possible to use it as a spear too, I never took the butt cap off. I wouldn't bother with double edge as unless you're an expert martial artist it's only a liability.

If you want something more, uh, potent, check out the Ka-Bar Becker BK9.

Edit: If you absolutely must have a dagger and it's not a Fairbairn-Sykes/Applegate-Fairbairn fighting knife or a Gerber Mk. II, check out the Ka-Bar Ek Model 4.
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Yeah I want a long, thin needle type blade that goes stabby stabby. Ill check those out. Thanks
 
DeadFish said:
Yeah I want a long, thin needle type blade that goes stabby stabby. Ill check those out. Thanks
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Knife shopping is always fun, enjoy. Carbon steel will keep a good edge and will be cheaper, but it will rust. Good stainless (at least S30v and up) will not rust but will be pricier and a little harder to sharpen (especially if you go with a steel like Elmax). Tool steel (like D2 and such) is a nice compromise, sharpens like carbon steel but doesn't rust as quickly.

SOG, Cold Steel, and Schrade also makes some passable daggers/boot knives, but not as good as the daggers in the original post. There's also the V-42 Stiletto but I'm not a fan. There's also the overpriced Extrema Ratio, Spartan Blades and Randall stuff but that's for autist collector types. Stay away from United Cutlery/MTECH, that's gas station quality shit.
 
DeadFish said:
Yeah I want a long, thin needle type blade that goes stabby stabby. Ill check those out. Thanks
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i'll also attest to the glock knife being a good choice. the sheath kinda sucks but i had mine for farm work and it was great. if you just want a shank i'd still recommend it
 
timecop said:
i'll also attest to the glock knife being a good choice. the sheath kinda sucks but i had mine for farm work and it was great. if you just want a shank i'd still recommend it
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It's literally indestructable. I've seen a demo of someone hammering it into a brick wall and then using it as a step. I found the sheath to be ok, the little retention clip works quite well once you get used to it. Ensures no one can grab your knife out of the sheath if you're not paying attention. Only issue I had with it is that the saw is kind of useless as a saw, it only works for notching. Not a big deal though, still by far the best bayonet I've seen to this day.

Yes, it is actually a bayonet. That thing on the guard that everyone opens their beer bottles with is an attachment point.
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Receiver cover mounts are crap, go with a side mount or nothing at all. On an SKS a receiver cover mount will lose zero after a single shot, it takes a beating from the bolt carrier. Side mounts are usually set up pretty high (hope you like chin welds) so you can still use the iron sights for snap shots. If you keep the iron sights open there may not be a point in putting a non-magnified optic on the rail.

Edit: Not my photo, but you get the idea. Sits pretty high up there.
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Badungus Kabungus said:
Receiver cover mounts are crap, go with a side mount or nothing at all. On an SKS a receiver cover mount will lose zero after a single shot, it takes a beating from the bolt carrier. Side mounts are usually set up pretty high (hope you like chin welds) so you can still use the iron sights for snap shots. If you keep the iron sights open there may not be a point in putting a non-magnified optic on the rail.

Edit: Not my photo, but you get the idea. Sits pretty high up there.
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Wrong. The Zenitco dust cover is fine, as is the one Zastava uses on their NATO rifles. "Krink" style AKs generally hold zero on a dust cover pic rail if the rail is mounted close to the hinge.

The Texas Weapons Systems dogleg railed dust cover however is garbage.

Edit: There are also a couple of non shit rear sight replacement rails that work on AKs and SKSes but I wouldn't go that route personally.
 
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White Devil said:
Wrong. The Zenitco dust cover is fine, as is the one Zastava uses on their NATO rifles. "Krink" style AKs generally hold zero on a dust cover pic rail if the rail is mounted close to the hinge.
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Maybe for a non-magnified optic it doesn't matter, but the moment you put anything with at least 2-3x magnification you start noticing just how much the point of impact wanders around because the dust cover is very loosely attached to the barrel/receiver assembly (only two attachment points, a hinge and a spring-loaded button). They made these to sell to Americans who don't expect much accuracy from AKs anyway.

If you want to do it right, get this side mount from Kalinka instead of trying to outsmart the laws of physics.
 
Badungus Kabungus said:
Maybe for a non-magnified optic it doesn't matter, but the moment you put anything with at least 2-3x magnification you start noticing just how much the point of impact wanders around because the dust cover is very loosely attached to the barrel/receiver assembly (only two attachment points, a hinge and a spring-loaded button). They made these to sell to Americans who don't expect much accuracy from AKs anyway.

If you want to do it right, get this side mount from Kalinka instead of trying to outsmart the laws of physics.
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Once again, wrong. I've shot plenty of 1 MOA zenited AKs that had LPVOs. Zenitco isn't made to sell to Americans, I don't know where you get that asinine shit from. It's primarily used to outfit Spetsnaz rifles.

And mass produced AKs outside of the new AK-12 platform will never be as accurate as let's say ARs are. They're just not designed to be, a simple fact of how the platform was conceived and built. These are 300m battle rifles meant for hitting minute of man.

As for side rails, the best side rail system you can possibly buy is RS Regulate. There's a reason you see Russian special forces using those and Eotechs.
 
The whole process of military purchasing doesn't revolve around getting the best product, but the most affordable product. Also whatever sanctions will still allow.

And yeah, AKs/SKSs/SVDs and anything else with a gas piston system will obviously never be as accurate as something with a free-floated barrel, that's just simple physics. The presence of the gas tube fucks with the barrel harmonics causing a decrease in accuracy. Same reason you can't put a bipod on an SKS and expect to hit anything. Try watching it shoot in slow-mo to see just how much it lashes around, that's why the best way to shoot Soviet rifles is off a soft bag, not a bipod or a hard surface as you need something that will absorb the impulse rather than have the gun bounce off it.

Still, when you have a scope mount that is loosely attached and wobbles around the spots I indicated because there's no firm attachment to the receiver, there's no way you can expect consistent results with every shot. Once again, simple physics.
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Watch this video, it clearly shows how the receiver cover and the red dot mounted on it move separately from the gun itself as it fires. For a red dot it's fine, but you can't realistically expect to maintain zero on a real optic when every shot bounces the receiver around like that.

 
Badungus Kabungus said:
It's literally indestructable. I've seen a demo of someone hammering it into a brick wall and then using it as a step. I found the sheath to be ok, the little retention clip works quite well once you get used to it. Ensures no one can grab your knife out of the sheath if you're not paying attention. Only issue I had with it is that the saw is kind of useless as a saw, it only works for notching. Not a big deal though, still by far the best bayonet I've seen to this day.

Yes, it is actually a bayonet. That thing on the guard that everyone opens their beer bottles with is an attachment point.
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Sounds right.
Now add a mount to a stick and I can have an impromptu spear that doesnt draw negative attention
 
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Using this picture as an example of the Zenitco system. I have never shot an AK with this set up that didn't retain it's zero. That being said, AKs having flex is pretty common knowledge.

Also, re: military purchasing. This furniture system is probably the best one you can buy for an AKM short of building a custom rifle from the ground up. Does Zenitco love selling to Americans? Fuck yea they do. That doesn't mean this was meant for the US consumer. Molot, however, was. The Obama sanctions sunk them.
 
Soviet rifles were flexing like that since the SVT, that's one of the reasons why that piece of shit never got much use in the war compared to Mosins. Other reason was horrible reliability, the flexing didn't help it. The flex is also part of the reason the SVD had that very specific stock, due to them trying to alleviate the gas tube issues I mentioned above they made it have a very odd recoil impulse that caused the rifle to twist in the shooter's hands.

And sure, for something like a 6MOA red dot the wobble is definitely acceptable, can probably stick the damn thing on a gas tube mount and won't see a difference because the dot will cover most of the target anyway. For a day of shooting paper at 25y it will definitely do.

Still, when it comes to the underlaying physics of it, there's no realistic way the receiver cover will end up in the same position after every shot because it's still attached by means of just one hinge and the receiver disassembly button. It will always be off by fractions of a mm, which is enough to throw off a shot at 200-300 yards (max realistic hunting range for 7.62x39 with decent ammo). Plus the heavier the optic, the more wobble it will have, so good luck trying to put night vision or thermal on that.

Edit: To me that wobble can mean a difference between a successful shot on a bear or a bad one, causing a pissed off wounded bear to wander off into the woods.
 
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Stupid question. Now where will I get a nice sturdy staff or stick which will allow me to attach a bayonet lug to it?

Once again which glock knife is the bayonet?


Im also looking for a rifle that can shoot 22lr, 22 longs, and 22 shorts. I was looking at the Rossi gallery but found out its made out of poor quality metal. Any ither suggestions?
 
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DeadFish said:
Stupid question. Now where will I get a nice sturdy staff or stick which will allow me to attach a bayonet lug to it?

Once again which glock knife is the bayonet?


Im also looking for a rifle that can shoot 22lr, 22 longs, and 22 shorts. I was looking at the Rossi gallery but found out its made out of poor quality metal. Any ither suggestions?
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Any sort of hardware/farming equipment store, look for a shaft for a pitchfork or anything else similar sized. Broomsticks and such are made from shit wood and will break easily. Should be only two Glock knives variants (81 and 71), the only difference is the saw on the back.

For a 22 I'm sure there will be lots of suggestions (Henry lever actions would fit the bill too) but check out the Chiappa Little Badger. Shit ergonomics aside (easily fixable with a 3D printer), it's super cheap and pretty durable. Accuracy is decent with the right ammo. If you intend to scope it, look into replacing the plastic rails with aluminum ones.
 
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