- Joined
- Sep 22, 2021
This may be TMI but when I am running these, the male members of my household love peeing on the pile, and that’s all nitrogen lol.I didn't know about hot composting. this is really neat!
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This may be TMI but when I am running these, the male members of my household love peeing on the pile, and that’s all nitrogen lol.I didn't know about hot composting. this is really neat!
Squash bugs (Anasa Tristis, BTW, kek) has a native predator, a tachinid fly Trichopoda pennipes (Feather legged fly). They lay their eggs on the squash bug and the larvae drill in and eat their insides. You can attract them by planting buckwheat. Try planting it at 2-3 week intervals for best results. You want a patch of buckwheat blooming as much as possible. Not a quick fix, and you have to use other methods to reduce populations, but you will see the flies and results. Like empty bug shells and eggs on the sides of live ones.Half of my garden is doing great (peppers and tomatoes are going gangbusters due to a mini greenhouse I used to get my plants in the ground weeks before our last frost which gave them a very nice head start) as well as my alliums and strawberries (I am not passing judgement on my peas, lettuces, and carrots because we're in a hot spell, but they're still seedlings and I hope cooler weather will come by the time they will really be affected by heat) but I worry about my squash and melons.
The watermelons are growing, but it's very slow going and they seem very stunted for this time of year. That said they don't seem to be suffering from any disease or pests, they're just... small.
As for my squash, while I don't live in an area with vine borers, we DO have squash bugs and I've found a few lurking about (as well as some clutches of eggs on the leaves). I'm kind of squeamish so I knock the bugs off and step on them when I can and I cover the eggs (and leaves) with diatomaceous earth. Is there anything else I can do to rid myself of these turbulent pests that doesn't necessarily involve me squishing them with my dainty fingers?
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I didn't realize there are different 'hot' and 'cold' composting methods. I don't put too much work into my compost pile, I try to stay close to a 1/3 ratio of dry plant matter, wet plant matter/food scraps, and soil/chicken pen waste, turned the pile about 3 times, and it's done in under a year. I don't check temperatures but it always stayed hot as long as I didn't turn the pile too often.Maybe see if you can get enough bio material to run a hot compost? 3 weeks and you have something amazing.
So happy and big!This may only be of interest to fellow cold-weather zone inhabitants, but I was harvesting my haskap (aka honeyberries) and it’s looking like a great crop this year.
For some reason, hardly anyone has heard of these but they are amazing so I’m going to post some pics.
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Where I live there are a limited number of perennial fruit plants that can survive the winter. Short season apples, some pears, raspberries, strawberries, some hardy sour cherries. Most of them have to be babied and coddled a bit to survive.
Edible honeysuckle is an exception. Native to Siberia, it thrives in the cold weather, the deer leave it alone, and it’s quite tasty. Like a tart cross between blueberry and raspberry.
The flowers have lived through -10 frosts, they are the first things to flower in spring, and the first fruit to ripen in late June to early July.
I planted these 12 years ago, they are 5 to 7 feet tall. Love ‘em. I have to net them or the cedar waxwings will eat every single berry before they ripen.
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Always nice to see other Northern gardeners! Have you tried gooseberries or any of the cold-hardy grape cultivars like Valiants or Betas? (apparently Betas are hardy up to Zone 2!)Where I live there are a limited number of perennial fruit plants that can survive the winter. Short season apples, some pears, raspberries, strawberries, some hardy sour cherries.
Grapes are my white whale. Something about me or my location doesn’t work for them. They keep dying, and I am not smart enough to give upcold-hardy grape cultivars like Valiants or Betas?
Not once. I even bought some mason bees from West Coast Seeds just to be sure I ever saw some. They flew away immediately and never came back. And I maintain a mason bee spa! Sheltered nesting box, damp clay, a little gentle water fountain. Haughty little creatures.Has any one here ever had success in attracting mason bees or other kinds of solitary bees?
This sounds like the Garden of Bee-den.And I maintain a mason bee spa! Sheltered nesting box, damp clay, a little gentle water fountain. Haughty little creatures.
They'll turn out fine if you have good weather and conditions. I grew Reapers a few years ago and am still using them up gradually.Just planted some Carolina Reaper seeds to see how hard it is to make homemade CS-esque gas and some spicy chili. I skipped the whole germination and seedling steps and just went straight to the planter cause I was feeling lazy so hopefully they grow
They should do well, peppers are pretty robust. If you have other related types they can hybridize and cross-pollinate - I grew habaneros and Reapers together and the habaneros were noticeably hotter than ever before. It shouldn't affect jalapenos or bell peppers as much or at all because they are a different species.I'm wiring up some lights for their seedling+ stages so hopefully that is the case. After all I live in the Carolinas
I'll look into that for the next season since I'm just now on the tail of summer. I also want to grow some tobacco to keep the bugs away and run some data on the actual effects of including tobacco in your cropThey should do well, peppers are pretty robust. If you have other related types they can hybridize and cross-pollinate - I grew habaneros and Reapers together and the habaneros were noticeably hotter than ever before. It shouldn't affect jalapenos or bell peppers as much or at all because they are a different species.
If you're in the Lowcountry/coastal Carolinas you might even be able to grow them as perennials with some care in the winter.
I've never grown tobacco myself, but ornamental tobacco is a very attractive plant and you can use it to produce both natural pesticides and tobacco products if you wanted. Its yield is lower than tobacco grown for cigars or other products, but for personal applications it'll be plenty.I'll look into that for the next season since I'm just now on the tail of summer. I also want to grow some tobacco to keep the bugs away and run some data on the actual effects of including tobacco in your crop
Late, but I gotta white knight for sunchokes a bit. They've got 2 main benefits I don't see called out often enough:Has anyone here tried growing sunchokes / jerusalem artichokes?
This guy insists it's the best plant to grow, both in terms of being easy to grow and having a high yield. Sounds like it would be good for SHTF, but I've never heard of them before.