Car Thread - VROOM VROOM

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What is your favorite car? (Top 3)

  • Ame Sea

    Votes: 9 2.4%
  • Ferd

    Votes: 81 21.7%
  • Chevus

    Votes: 33 8.8%
  • Crintzler

    Votes: 5 1.3%
  • Doge

    Votes: 41 11.0%
  • Beem Dubya

    Votes: 32 8.6%
  • Mersaydis

    Votes: 32 8.6%
  • Volts-Wagon

    Votes: 34 9.1%
  • FIOT

    Votes: 8 2.1%
  • Joop

    Votes: 23 6.1%
  • Alphonse Romero

    Votes: 9 2.4%
  • Vulva

    Votes: 35 9.4%
  • Teslur

    Votes: 10 2.7%
  • Mincooper

    Votes: 7 1.9%
  • Knee-Son

    Votes: 17 4.5%
  • Hun-die

    Votes: 13 3.5%
  • Toyoder

    Votes: 134 35.8%
  • Hondo

    Votes: 95 25.4%
  • Subrue

    Votes: 48 12.8%

  • Total voters
    374
Kiwibros, if you have a 2018-2022 Honda Accord with a 1.5 liter engine, RUN. It's a grenade and mine blew it's head gasket at 83k miles.

Honda corporate denied the goodwill repair so it's either pay a shop $2300-$5500 to fix it or sell it.

Honda isn't selling the parts needed to repair the engine at the moment and 3rd Larry sellers are all OOS.

Next car is going to be a Toyota hybrid
 
Toyota or Mazda is the way to go imo, Honda is meh.
If I had a gun to my head and was forced to buy a normie car, it'd be a Mazda tho.
 
I have a jacked up '86 bronco. One tire costs a week's pay for most folks. I got bored with it and stopped driving it. I'd sell it but one of my kids wants it. That being said the truck guy is putting off small dick energy. The guy making the video is putting off penis envy energy. I'm pretty sure my penis is adequate. Just ask @JethroTullamore. He has seen it.
 
I have a jacked up '86 bronco. One tire costs a week's pay for most folks. I got bored with it and stopped driving it. I'd sell it but one of my kids wants it. That being said the truck guy is putting off small dick energy. The guy making the video is putting off penis envy energy. I'm pretty sure my penis is adequate. Just ask @JethroTullamore. He has seen it.
The tires on my f150s new wheels that I got several months ago cost about 2500 for the set iirc. I bought the wheels and tires used at a shop for 2000 all together. These Mexican wheel shops have some good prices from time to time
 
I have a jacked up '86 bronco. One tire costs a week's pay for most folks. I got bored with it and stopped driving it. I'd sell it but one of my kids wants it. That being said the truck guy is putting off small dick energy. The guy making the video is putting off penis envy energy. I'm pretty sure my penis is adequate. Just ask @JethroTullamore. He has seen it.
Can attest his penis is more than adequate.

I used to love lifted trucks, but the whole wanting to buy a home thing kind of overrode the $400 per tire that lasts maybe 10,000 miles thing.

My penis is considered above average in most Asian countries btw.
 
Any of you guys dabble in underglow? I did it way back in the day and would love to again. I understand everything is LEDs now, but I'm not sure where to start. I know there are kits, but it seems like you're better off just making your own. But I've no idea how they're controlled, or what leds one should get.
I'd want all the faggy modern features, music syncing, app control, w/e else.
Maybe a kit is the best option? But they all seem like rebranded garbage you could just buy.
 
Kiwibros, if you have a 2018-2022 Honda Accord with a 1.5 liter engine, RUN. It's a grenade and mine blew it's head gasket at 83k miles.

Honda corporate denied the goodwill repair so it's either pay a shop $2300-$5500 to fix it or sell it.

Honda isn't selling the parts needed to repair the engine at the moment and 3rd Larry sellers are all OOS.

Next car is going to be a Toyota hybrid
You're talking about the 1.5 turbo right? That's the L15 and it seems the design flaws are rearing their heads. I remember early on when the L15 came out in the 10th gen Civic and Si version the big fuss was about fuel dilution because direct injection. It's pretty funny when I hear the L15 Si bros talk about taking on GTIs with E888 that are far more robust to power mods and overall reliability.

 
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Norma Shearer curling her hair with an iron hooked up to a car battery, 1928. Car unknown.
 
In Soviet Russia you are favourite of car. Also atteinable dream car.
 

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All 4 of my vehicles are project vehicles (Ford, yota, VW, some eastern bloc shit) I just take the one to work that's running the most.

Never EVER let a machine know you're in a hurry. It will break down. When it breaks down, don't try to use another machine because it's guaranteed that one will too when it catches wind from the first. They work for the same union.
 
Even with some of the higher end power goals I'm thinking about, I don't really need to do all of that. At least right now.
That's the nice thing about the aftermarket. If you want to do anything major to the engine, rebuild the original one, with those hot boy parts, but not with the intention of building a powerful engine, just a reliable one. I did this with one of my Jeeps. The "AMC" 4.0L I6 is a fantastic and reliable engine already, especially towards the final years, but one of the big problems with them came down to bad machining on Cylinder #6 (closest piston to the firewall), which gave it a sort of oblate shape that would wear down the piston and wrist pin, which were crippled by bad metallurgy.

Knowing that there were factory faults with those parts, I went for the performance options. Forged pistons, aftermarket aluminum performance head, AMC 4.2L crankshaft for increased stroke, stronger connecting rods, and we bored out the intake manifold to take a bigger throttle body. The exhaust manifold was changed out for a performance header, as well, because they are liable to crack, being cast iron. The power it made gave you just a little bit more seat-of-the-pants feel, and I know that the engine is going to last another 400k miles, if nothing got overlooked, because it was completely refreshed with parts that are far stronger than what it came with. If something fails, it's going to be in the top end., which probably won't be bad enough to ruin my week, because I still have the original head, which I had decked with the performance one and the block. Fully rebuilt, waiting for a catastrophe in my garage.

If you want to put money in an engine, do it that way. Find weaknesses and eliminate them. That makes the difference between power, and reliable power.
 
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That's the nice thing about the aftermarket. If you want to do anything major to the engine, rebuild the original one, with those hot boy parts, but not with the intention of building a powerful engine, just a reliable one. I did this with one of my Jeeps. The "AMC" 4.0L I6 is a fantastic and reliable engine already, especially towards the final years, but one of the big problems with them came down to bad machining on Cylinder #6 (closest piston to the firewall), which gave it a sort of oblate shape that would wear down the pistons and wrist pins, which were crippled by bad metallurgy.

Knowing that there were factory faults with those parts, I went for the performance options. Forged pistons, aftermarket aluminum performance head, AMC 4.2L crankshaft for increased stroke, stronger connecting rods, and we bored out the intake manifold to take a bigger throttle body. The exhaust manifold was changed out for a performance header, as well, because they are liable to crack, being cast iron. The power it made gave you just a little bit more seat-of-the-pants feel, and I know that the engine is going to last another 400k miles, if nothing got overlooked, because it was completely refreshed with parts that are far stronger than what it came with. If something fails, it's going to be in the top end., which probably won't be bad enough to ruin my week, because I still have the original head, which I had decked with the performance one and the block. Fully rebuilt, waiting for a catastrophe in my garage.

If you want to put money in an engine, do it that way. Find weaknesses and eliminate them. That makes the difference between power, and reliable power.
Insert that shitty diagram with the triangle and they say "only pick 2" with the points at cheap fast reliable. You can do all of the above if you're smart.

Anyway, if you're getting a project just do so much research your eyes cross. Get the manual, don't go only with what people say online
 
That's the nice thing about the aftermarket. If you want to do anything major to the engine, rebuild the original one, with those hot boy parts, but not with the intention of building a powerful engine, just a reliable one.
That was the idea; but, it looks like I don't need to do that for my goals. Right now anyway. Looks like the rods will give out around 700whp. I'm researching the pistons now.
It's an e36 M3, us spec so s52 motor. I plan to supercharge it so my torque wouldn't be that ridiculous. I'm still researching doing an N/A build as that is what I'd prefer. But, I don't think it's viable.
Anyway, if you're getting a project just do so much research your eyes cross.
Yep, I've been reading for the last two years or so. Went from LS swap, to turbo, to s54 swap, to 4200 swap, finally I've realized that I should just stick w/ the stock motor. Maybe build it eventually.
 
Yep, I've been reading for the last two years or so. Went from LS swap, to turbo, to s54 swap, to 4200 swap, finally I've realized that I should just stick w/ the stock motor. Maybe build it eventually.
Automotive engineers work very hard to get an engine right the first time, so building up from stock is a pretty good option.

On the other hand, engine swapping is twice as hard and twice as expensive than anyone is willing to admit. I never see anyone dailying their LS, Cummins, Coyote, K-series, Hemi, etc. swaps
 
On the other hand, engine swapping is twice as hard and twice as expensive than anyone is willing to admit.
Whenever I'd do the math and / or look at examples of builds that I would at least match, a bog standard LS swap would be 15k. I know what I can do for 15 fucking thousand on an s52. Plus it'd all just fit / work.

This is what I'm thinking of doing. I'd really prefer to stay N/A, but idt it's feasible.
 
Whenever I'd do the math and / or look at examples of builds that I would at least match, a bog standard LS swap would be 15k. I know what I can do for 15 fucking thousand on an s52. Plus it'd all just fit / work.

This is what I'm thinking of doing. I'd really prefer to stay N/A, but idt it's feasible.
Never worked on a bmw. That kit looks awesome but woof that's a engine bay is tighter than a Catholic nun
 
I've been thinking about getting an old 2 door Honda Insight. Extremely good gas mileage and looking like a wacky future car are pretty appealing qualities. Though looking around it's pretty much impossible to find one without 200K+ on the clock, which makes sense for a car discontinued in 2006. The new Prius is a 2 door now, which is fine with me since there's never anyone in the back anyway. Might look into it, just not sure I'd want a car loan now.
 
I've been thinking about getting an old 2 door Honda Insight. Extremely good gas mileage and looking like a wacky future car are pretty appealing qualities. Though looking around it's pretty much impossible to find one without 200K+ on the clock, which makes sense for a car discontinued in 2006. The new Prius is a 2 door now, which is fine with me since there's never anyone in the back anyway. Might look into it, just not sure I'd want a car loan now.
I found one in Tennessee a few years ago for $1000 with 6 speed and I still wish I bought it. Just keep looking they're out there!

As far as super efficient vehicles, the ford c-max is a car no one bought that's a plug in hybrid that doesn't look totally stupid
 
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