Car Thread - VROOM VROOM

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What is your favorite car? (Top 3)

  • Ame Sea

    Votes: 9 2.4%

  • Ferd

    Votes: 81 21.7%

  • Chevus

    Votes: 33 8.8%

  • Crintzler

    Votes: 5 1.3%

  • Doge

    Votes: 41 11.0%

  • Beem Dubya

    Votes: 32 8.6%

  • Mersaydis

    Votes: 32 8.6%

  • Volts-Wagon

    Votes: 34 9.1%

  • FIOT

    Votes: 8 2.1%

  • Joop

    Votes: 23 6.1%

  • Alphonse Romero

    Votes: 9 2.4%

  • Vulva

    Votes: 35 9.4%

  • Teslur

    Votes: 10 2.7%

  • Mincooper

    Votes: 7 1.9%

  • Knee-Son

    Votes: 17 4.5%

  • Hun-die

    Votes: 13 3.5%

  • Toyoder

    Votes: 134 35.8%

  • Hondo

    Votes: 95 25.4%

  • Subrue

    Votes: 48 12.8%
  • Total voters
    374
vern said:
Does anyone have any experience trying to keep gas in jerry-cans? I've been tempted to buy or two since the price of gas is what it is and a local station chain I use has a decent fuel discount program that I unfortunately get a bit stiffed on since my car's tank isn't even half of the maximum gallons your allowed for the discount.
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As far as Jerry cans go, just make sure that you are actually getting NATO spec cans. There are a ton of cheap Chinese knockoffs that are half the quality for two thirds the price. Personally I keep my spare fuel in my spare vehicles. Add some stabil and it's portable and stable for two years. Unfortunately I filled up everything in 2020 as the varus was starting and I'm having to rotate it now. I'm burning 2.25 gas to replace it with 4.25 gas. Fun times. Let's go Brandon!
 
vern said:
Does anyone have any experience trying to keep gas in jerry-cans? I've been tempted to buy or two since the price of gas is what it is and a local station chain I use has a decent fuel discount program that I unfortunately get a bit stiffed on since my car's tank isn't even half of the maximum gallons your allowed for the discount.
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Avoid the "safety" cans if possible. You have to hold down the stupid plastic nozzle while pouring. Filling my 150 gallon generator tank during a storm with 20 gallon cans built like this made me change out the nozzles. Absolute nanny-state bullshit designed for the lowest common denominator crayon-eater
 
Feet Seeking Missile said:
Avoid the "safety" cans if possible. You have to hold down the stupid plastic nozzle while pouring. Filling my 150 gallon generator tank during a storm with 20 gallon cans built like this made me change out the nozzles. Absolute nanny-state bullshit designed for the lowest common denominator crayon-eater
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Those shitty cans, if inserted cockeyed, can also tear the o-ring that seals the stupid spring loaded safety lock in the nozzle. Imagine getting that in the fuel tank.
 
I really want an early 90's Toyota 4x4 pickup. Is that weird?
1990_Toyota_SR5.jpg
 
Can anyone give me a ballpark on what is a reasonable cost to repaint a 2000 F150? No body damage but the paint is sunworn.
 
vern said:
Does anyone have any experience trying to keep gas in jerry-cans? I've been tempted to buy or two since the price of gas is what it is and a local station chain I use has a decent fuel discount program that I unfortunately get a bit stiffed on since my car's tank isn't even half of the maximum gallons your allowed for the discount.
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Yeah, try to store it in an area where it won't go over 100 degrees or under 40 for more than 3-4 hours. Use the gas to fill up your car every few weeks and just refill them at the gas station instead of your car, it cycles through the fuel better and you can avoid needing to invest in stabilizer, but if you can get ethanol free gas, thats the best for storing because it is far more gentel to the cans over time.

I have 6 garage jerries (Old school metal with inward welds) and what I do is make sure they're all numbered clearly and then use them (in order) to fill up our cars every Sunday morning. Then I cycle through them according tot he last one used to then go refill the empties and make sure that any that still have gas get used first the next week. I also have 3 "Runner" jerries that I store empty and only fill to use them when we go out off-roading. Those, even though I store them empty, I keep popped open to allow it to vent out fumes (under shade) in my back yard away from the house so small amounts of unused fuel remnants won't be able to stay in there and do damage to the can itself or accidentally be left in to mix with good gas later and fuck my shit up.

Also, for my garage cans, I sharpie on the dates I put gas in them, just in case
 
Shidoen said:
I found a rusted and broken 65 Shelby. I’m thinking of buying it.
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If you’re paying Shelby money for it do the research. Otherwise just pay rusted 65 money for it.
vern said:
Does anyone have any experience trying to keep gas in jerry-cans? I've been tempted to buy or two since the price of gas is what it is and a local station chain I use has a decent fuel discount program that I unfortunately get a bit stiffed on since my car's tank isn't even half of the maximum gallons your allowed for the discount.
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Plastic doesn’t rust
Red Hood said:
I really want an early 90's Toyota 4x4 pickup. Is that weird?
View attachment 3348976
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They’re ….. unbreakable.
It won’t be a speed machine but you’ll be hard pressed to find a better truck. The Hilux looked the same for most of the decade just changed the front clip
Cpl. Long Dong Silver said:
Can anyone give me a ballpark on what is a reasonable cost to repaint a 2000 F150? No body damage but the paint is sunworn.
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If the clear coat isn’t peeling look at a cut & polish first. Or raptor coat it. Wrap.
deerPropaganda said:
This is my daily driver, r8 car pls

View attachment 3349772
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nice car. Do they make em for men?
 
Cpl. Long Dong Silver said:
Can anyone give me a ballpark on what is a reasonable cost to repaint a 2000 F150? No body damage but the paint is sunworn.
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The usual suspects like macco will do an okay single stage for $500, but it'll look like a $500 paint job.

I paid $1400 cash I think to do just the cab on a truck. Something about 2000s paint just gets crushed by UV damage. I think they just have put something in it when they were getting away from lead based paint. 2010s and even early to mid 90s cars don't seem to have the issue
 
Feet Seeking Missile said:
The usual suspects like macco will do an okay single stage for $500, but it'll look like a $500 paint job.

I paid $1400 cash I think to do just the cab on a truck. Something about 2000s paint just gets crushed by UV damage. I think they just have put something in it when they were getting away from lead based paint. 2010s and even early to mid 90s cars don't seem to have the issue
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Low-VOC paints have gotten better, but they still mostly suck.
 
Feet Seeking Missile said:
The usual suspects like macco will do an okay single stage for $500, but it'll look like a $500 paint job.

I paid $1400 cash I think to do just the cab on a truck. Something about 2000s paint just gets crushed by UV damage. I think they just have put something in it when they were getting away from lead based paint. 2010s and even early to mid 90s cars don't seem to have the issue
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Thanks for the info everyone! I had budgeted about 1500 but my "car guy" friend tried telling me it would be five grand like lolniggerwut
 
Poppavalyim Andropoff said:
If you’re paying Shelby money for it do the research. Otherwise just pay rusted 65 money for it.

Plastic doesn’t rust

They’re ….. unbreakable.
It won’t be a speed machine but you’ll be hard pressed to find a better truck. The Hilux looked the same for most of the decade just changed the front clip

If the clear coat isn’t peeling look at a cut & polish first. Or raptor coat it. Wrap.

nice car. Do they make em for men?
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It's exactly like this, in its prime at least:

1654287236844.png

I paid 200 for the rusted out chassis and I got three free rats included. A steal if I do say so myself.
 
Coming home from work yesterday, roll up to a stoplight and some guy with a Chevy Impala starts revving his engine at me. He's got some kind of muffler kit or something to make his shitbox sound scary I guess. OK, whatever bro. Light turns green and I stamp out and promptly smoke his ass.

In a Volvo station wagon.
CAB80VOC061A0101.jpg

Is having a turbo cheating?
 
Red Hood said:
I really want an early 90's Toyota 4x4 pickup. Is that weird?
View attachment 3348976
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Funny story, I had an 80s one, I legit bought it because @Rat Speaker (rip my nigga) told me too.

It had 450K+ miles on it no paint and was 700 dollars. Next thing I know it was coming home.

So after a tune up, I got the OEM turbo manifold, a wuhan war whistle and reflashed it.. 5 PSI then fuck it, intercooler (DSM) mounted where the oem airbox was and 7 PSI. Got some bigger tires and rims outta a junk yard, some wal mart speakers etc.

Sold it to girl I was seeing at the time for 2500 Less than I put into it and cost. It's ugly as fuck but she's still on the road.

Volvos can move, some of them, the 60/70R series was quick and has an AMAZING gauge cluster (also the leather was baller) but being 5 bangers sound like a sewing machine satan used, when he was high.
 
Bassomatic said:
Funny story, I had an 80s one, I legit bought it because @Rat Speaker (rip my nigga) told me too.

It had 450K+ miles on it no paint and was 700 dollars. Next thing I know it was coming home.

So after a tune up, I got the OEM turbo manifold, a wuhan war whistle and reflashed it.. 5 PSI then fuck it, intercooler (DSM) mounted where the oem airbox was and 7 PSI. Got some bigger tires and rims outta a junk yard, some wal mart speakers etc.

Sold it to girl I was seeing at the time for 2500 Less than I put into it and cost. It's ugly as fuck but she's still on the road.

Volvos can move, some of them, the 60/70R series was quick and has an AMAZING gauge cluster (also the leather was baller) but being 5 bangers sound like a sewing machine satan used, when he was high.
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This one is a 3.2 turbo I6. Not as much lag on the turbo as I thought there would be, I didn't even bother to rev it at the light. Pedal to floor and it just jumped.
 
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