Dear Gods, WTF is that idiot doing?
The whole "NASA" thing is also a myth. NASA like anyone else sane wants you to solder the connections, not just twist them. And if you do that on anything high power, ugh! You want to see an electrician shudder, show him the "J-Slice" (with or without the P)
The chain is actually a cable guide that supports and protects the wires that go to the hot end. y'know those wires that Johnn just yanked out and "J-Spliced" along the X-axis rails?
/sigh. Wildly modding your printers is a thing in the 3d printing community. But normally the goal is to take am inexpensive $200 Printer and mod it up to give the same quality and results of a $1000+ Printer. Typically for less than $100 in costs. And it's really not that hard. The average teenager could easily have or learn the basic skills needed to do this. You just need to not be afraid of the machinery, and not afraid to do some basic soldering. And a little bit of firmware tweaking. It's script kiddie level stuff. Watch Youtube video, do what monkey does, get good results.
Can anyone see how John is applying John's unique magic and approach to this project? I knew you could. See most Printer owners start cheap and modify their stuff to be good. You take a cheap I3 clone and build from there. Give it better fans and cooling. Better stepper drivers. Z bracing, shift the heat bed off the mainboard onto its own unit to avoid fire hazard. replace the cheap chinese hot end with a Microswiss all metal replacement kit. Set up a Raspberry Pi with octoprint to function as a printer control server, etc. The first things you print are upgrade and mod parts to improve your printer. But once again the point is to take a dirt cheap printer and get $1000 results for far less than $1000. Now note that John is starting with a $1600 printer. Which through typical Wu engineering he is seemingly seeking to turn into a $100 printer through what could be best described as "nigger rigging". I really really hope that that horrible not soldiered splice is simply in the part cooling fan lead and not, as I am suspecting, the hot ends heat element or thermistor. And I am left scratching my head as to why? The Lulzbots while grossly overpriced have decent components out of the box. There should be no reason to start dicking around with the wiring going to the hot end?