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By plastic coated do you mean cast bullets that are powder coated?Anyone have experience reloading handgun ammo using plated / plastic coated bullets? Is it possible to reach the same chamber pressure as with FMJ rounds? I'd like to start reloading using plated rounds to save money, but I've read it sometimes leads to lower muzzle velocities than what reloading charts would imply.
By plastic coated do you mean cast bullets that are powder coated?
I would recommend a Lee single stage kit. It will have pretty much everything you need to get started and it’s all serviceable equipment. None of it is top of the line but it will do the job. From there you can replace pieces as you figure out what works and what doesn’t. As for a progressive set up, I can only recommend Dillon. With progressive presses you get what you pay for. In my experience lee progressive presses are absolute cancer. Do not waste your money on them. Buy a Dillon once and be done with itTrue, I forgot that the plastic coating starts as a powder that is melted to form a uniform surface.
Any suggestions for a reloading press? I'm looking for a simple single stage or progressive setup, no other bells or whistles except maybe a powder hopper.
Also sorry for the double post but this is vital information. Any powder measure or hopper as you call it will need to be seasoned for lack of a better term. Pour an entire pound of powder into the measure and run the handle back and forth pouring the powder back into the original container. Your powder measure will not throw a precise charge until you do this. I don’t know why but it just won’t. Then set you measure and weigh the charge it throws to confirm accuracyTrue, I forgot that the plastic coating starts as a powder that is melted to form a uniform surface.
Any suggestions for a reloading press? I'm looking for a simple single stage or progressive setup, no other bells or whistles except maybe a powder hopper.
Or you can get an AutoTrickler V4.Also sorry for the double post but this is vital information. Any powder measure or hopper as you call it will need to be seasoned for lack of a better term. Pour an entire pound of powder into the measure and run the handle back and forth pouring the powder back into the original container. Your powder measure will not throw a precise charge until you do this. I don’t know why but it just won’t. Then set you measure and weigh the charge it throws to confirm accuracy
first step: run the numbers. .357 Mag can regularly be bought for 0.50$ a pop. Bullets are 0.10$ each shipped, pistol primers 0.097$ each. Powder is 0.0068$/g, at 18 grains per, that's 0.121$ in powder. That's a cost of 0.32/round add 0.03/rd for opportunity cost (selling the casings), and you're saving 0.15/ round.Alright, I got myself a colt 357 recently, Now I don't want to bankrupt myself with ammo costs, what all do I need to reload
I go through about 150 rounds byweekly from my 357, My father shoots 350 legend (Different yet more expensive cartridge) and my brother has a 357 lever gun. every time we go out to my fathers friends outdoor range. I would personally break even in about 308 days. That is very acceptablefirst step: run the numbers. .357 Mag can regularly be bought for 0.50$ a pop. Bullets are 0.10$ each shipped, pistol primers 0.097$ each. Powder is 0.0068$/g, at 18 grains per, that's 0.121$ in powder. That's a cost of 0.32/round add 0.03/rd for opportunity cost (selling the casings), and you're saving 0.15/ round.
if it takes 500$ to start into reloading, you'd have to reload 3,300 rounds of 0.357 to break even.
If that's acceptable to you, OR you have non-financial reasons to reload, then we can talk equipment.
I recommend getting a single stage press to start. They might be slower than a progressive press, but they generally will give you a more consistent result, since you're only dealing with one operation at a time. The single stage that I usually use has given me excellent results with everything I reload (9mm .40S&W, 5.56, 30-30, .308, and .38 Special)Should I go for the Lee Six Pack Pro? I've been considering it for a fat minute.
I plan on loading .38 Special, .223/5.56, 9mm and 40 S&W.
I'll be casting my own lead for the pistol calibers, mainly the .38.
This. Just buy the damn Dillon XL750. They are pricy but they are just better than all of the alternatives. Of course once you buy the Dillon, you will end up buying the roller handle, and then the primer discharge hose kit, and then the case feeder, and then...Do not waste your money on them. Buy a Dillon once and be done with it
I would say there is one other area where it makes sense financially and that's if you're a serious competitive pistol shooter. Especially if you shoot in an open class where you're using 9mm Major to drive a giant compensator. There's not a lot of factory 9mm Major out there, and what is out there is really expensive. Even for regular 9mm, you can tune a round to your gun and if you're shooting thousands of rounds in practice (which you basically have to do to be really competitive) then it will make sense cost wise.The only thing reloading TRULEY makes sense for cost wise is rounds that are completely obsolete or so new that no one has even heard of them yet. For any common plinking round, it’s not worth your time unless you actually enjoy the process.
Yeah that’s true. There’s certainly niche applications. We’re probably still leaving some out. I guess the overall point is, for the beginner, they should look at it as more of a hobby than anything. If you need to justify the input cost to your wife…well that’s their business haha.I would say there is one other area where it makes sense financially and that's if you're a serious competitive pistol shooter. Especially if you shoot in an open class where you're using 9mm Major to drive a giant compensator. There's not a lot of factory 9mm Major out there, and what is out there is really expensive. Even for regular 9mm, you can tune a round to your gun and if you're shooting thousands of rounds in practice (which you basically have to do to be really competitive) then it will make sense cost wise.
Absolutely, a handloaded 5.56 using Sierra MatchKings costs about 50 - 60 cents (if you're re-using brass) while a factory SMK load will set you back $1.30 - $2 per round. Completely agree on the plinking rounds, though. The cost difference between handloaded 9mm and bulk factory ammo is only a few cents, so it's only worth it if you enjoy doing it.The only thing reloading TRULEY makes sense for cost wise is rounds that are completely obsolete or so new that no one has even heard of them yet. For any common plinking round, it’s not worth your time unless you actually enjoy the process.