Ammo Reloading Thread

  • 🏰 The Fediverse is up. If you know, you know.
  • Want to keep track of this thread?
    Accounts can bookmark posts, watch threads for updates, and jump back to where you stopped reading.
    Create account
I'm planing on reloading 308 using NAS3 Cartridge Cases and Hodgdon H335 Smokeless Gun Powder, any suggestions?
 
Anyone have experience reloading handgun ammo using plated / plastic coated bullets? Is it possible to reach the same chamber pressure as with FMJ rounds? I'd like to start reloading using plated rounds to save money, but I've read it sometimes leads to lower muzzle velocities than what reloading charts would imply.
 
Anyone have experience reloading handgun ammo using plated / plastic coated bullets? Is it possible to reach the same chamber pressure as with FMJ rounds? I'd like to start reloading using plated rounds to save money, but I've read it sometimes leads to lower muzzle velocities than what reloading charts would imply.
By plastic coated do you mean cast bullets that are powder coated?

If so, in my experience you can drive powder coated bullets pretty fast. I’ll admit I’ve never chronographed them because they are just practice bullets for me. I use a published load for the particular weight bullet that I’m loading and if it’s accurate enough I’ll load a whole batch. Now if you want to get into +p territory I can’t speak to that. But you should be fine if you keep it to relatively normal pressure/speeds. You can always work up to your desired velocity and stop when you start seeing pressure signs or lead streaks in the barrel
 
Last edited:
By plastic coated do you mean cast bullets that are powder coated?

True, I forgot that the plastic coating starts as a powder that is melted to form a uniform surface.

Any suggestions for a reloading press? I'm looking for a simple single stage or progressive setup, no other bells or whistles except maybe a powder hopper.
 
True, I forgot that the plastic coating starts as a powder that is melted to form a uniform surface.

Any suggestions for a reloading press? I'm looking for a simple single stage or progressive setup, no other bells or whistles except maybe a powder hopper.
I would recommend a Lee single stage kit. It will have pretty much everything you need to get started and it’s all serviceable equipment. None of it is top of the line but it will do the job. From there you can replace pieces as you figure out what works and what doesn’t. As for a progressive set up, I can only recommend Dillon. With progressive presses you get what you pay for. In my experience lee progressive presses are absolute cancer. Do not waste your money on them. Buy a Dillon once and be done with it
 
True, I forgot that the plastic coating starts as a powder that is melted to form a uniform surface.

Any suggestions for a reloading press? I'm looking for a simple single stage or progressive setup, no other bells or whistles except maybe a powder hopper.
Also sorry for the double post but this is vital information. Any powder measure or hopper as you call it will need to be seasoned for lack of a better term. Pour an entire pound of powder into the measure and run the handle back and forth pouring the powder back into the original container. Your powder measure will not throw a precise charge until you do this. I don’t know why but it just won’t. Then set you measure and weigh the charge it throws to confirm accuracy
 
Also sorry for the double post but this is vital information. Any powder measure or hopper as you call it will need to be seasoned for lack of a better term. Pour an entire pound of powder into the measure and run the handle back and forth pouring the powder back into the original container. Your powder measure will not throw a precise charge until you do this. I don’t know why but it just won’t. Then set you measure and weigh the charge it throws to confirm accuracy
Or you can get an AutoTrickler V4.
 
Alright, I got myself a colt 357 recently, Now I don't want to bankrupt myself with ammo costs, what all do I need to reload
 
Alright, I got myself a colt 357 recently, Now I don't want to bankrupt myself with ammo costs, what all do I need to reload
first step: run the numbers. .357 Mag can regularly be bought for 0.50$ a pop. Bullets are 0.10$ each shipped, pistol primers 0.097$ each. Powder is 0.0068$/g, at 18 grains per, that's 0.121$ in powder. That's a cost of 0.32/round add 0.03/rd for opportunity cost (selling the casings), and you're saving 0.15/ round.

if it takes 500$ to start into reloading, you'd have to reload 3,300 rounds of 0.357 to break even.

If that's acceptable to you, OR you have non-financial reasons to reload, then we can talk equipment.
 
first step: run the numbers. .357 Mag can regularly be bought for 0.50$ a pop. Bullets are 0.10$ each shipped, pistol primers 0.097$ each. Powder is 0.0068$/g, at 18 grains per, that's 0.121$ in powder. That's a cost of 0.32/round add 0.03/rd for opportunity cost (selling the casings), and you're saving 0.15/ round.

if it takes 500$ to start into reloading, you'd have to reload 3,300 rounds of 0.357 to break even.

If that's acceptable to you, OR you have non-financial reasons to reload, then we can talk equipment.
I go through about 150 rounds byweekly from my 357, My father shoots 350 legend (Different yet more expensive cartridge) and my brother has a 357 lever gun. every time we go out to my fathers friends outdoor range. I would personally break even in about 308 days. That is very acceptable
 
Should I go for the Lee Six Pack Pro? I've been considering it for a fat minute.

I plan on loading .38 Special, .223/5.56, 9mm and 40 S&W.

I'll be casting my own lead for the pistol calibers, mainly the .38.
 
Should I go for the Lee Six Pack Pro? I've been considering it for a fat minute.

I plan on loading .38 Special, .223/5.56, 9mm and 40 S&W.

I'll be casting my own lead for the pistol calibers, mainly the .38.
I recommend getting a single stage press to start. They might be slower than a progressive press, but they generally will give you a more consistent result, since you're only dealing with one operation at a time. The single stage that I usually use has given me excellent results with everything I reload (9mm .40S&W, 5.56, 30-30, .308, and .38 Special)
 
Do not waste your money on them. Buy a Dillon once and be done with it
This. Just buy the damn Dillon XL750. They are pricy but they are just better than all of the alternatives. Of course once you buy the Dillon, you will end up buying the roller handle, and then the primer discharge hose kit, and then the case feeder, and then...

But yeah start with a single stage before you go in on a progressive. My first press was an RCBS Summit, and I still use it for precision rifle loads.
 
The reality is reloading is its own separate hobby aside from shooting. If you like it you’ll stick with it and eventually down the line you might break even. But then that always comes with “well I need to upgrade such and such” and then you’re just spending more money. The only thing reloading TRULEY makes sense for cost wise is rounds that are completely obsolete or so new that no one has even heard of them yet. For any common plinking round, it’s not worth your time unless you actually enjoy the process.

Where you will actually gain the most from reloading is quality. You can tailor a specific hunting bullet to your specific rifle and it will be better and more accurate than most of what you can buy off the shelf. And it will be a good bit cheaper than match grade/high end hunting ammo
 
The only thing reloading TRULEY makes sense for cost wise is rounds that are completely obsolete or so new that no one has even heard of them yet. For any common plinking round, it’s not worth your time unless you actually enjoy the process.
I would say there is one other area where it makes sense financially and that's if you're a serious competitive pistol shooter. Especially if you shoot in an open class where you're using 9mm Major to drive a giant compensator. There's not a lot of factory 9mm Major out there, and what is out there is really expensive. Even for regular 9mm, you can tune a round to your gun and if you're shooting thousands of rounds in practice (which you basically have to do to be really competitive) then it will make sense cost wise.
 
I would say there is one other area where it makes sense financially and that's if you're a serious competitive pistol shooter. Especially if you shoot in an open class where you're using 9mm Major to drive a giant compensator. There's not a lot of factory 9mm Major out there, and what is out there is really expensive. Even for regular 9mm, you can tune a round to your gun and if you're shooting thousands of rounds in practice (which you basically have to do to be really competitive) then it will make sense cost wise.
Yeah that’s true. There’s certainly niche applications. We’re probably still leaving some out. I guess the overall point is, for the beginner, they should look at it as more of a hobby than anything. If you need to justify the input cost to your wife…well that’s their business haha.

And this is more a general response to the entire thread, the only progressive press I’ve ever seen work right out of the box is the Dillon XL750. Buy anything else at your own peril. The Dillion SEEMS expensive and it is. But add to it the cost of throwing your hornady or Lee through the nearest wall after it’s crushed more cases than it loaded. Anecdotal but that’s my two cents
 
The only thing reloading TRULEY makes sense for cost wise is rounds that are completely obsolete or so new that no one has even heard of them yet. For any common plinking round, it’s not worth your time unless you actually enjoy the process.
Absolutely, a handloaded 5.56 using Sierra MatchKings costs about 50 - 60 cents (if you're re-using brass) while a factory SMK load will set you back $1.30 - $2 per round. Completely agree on the plinking rounds, though. The cost difference between handloaded 9mm and bulk factory ammo is only a few cents, so it's only worth it if you enjoy doing it.
 
Back
Top Bottom