Warhammer 40k

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Love_Machine011 said:
You think itll be fine as is? or should I go with a medium? Never used a contrast before.
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Never used that one but in my opinion it's worth picking up some of the contrast medium, i use it to paint 'oomie flesh in thin glazes over flesh tone base paints.

20200318_145328.jpg
 
He's my Goliath gang leader, Grand dog Deddog, wearing light carapace armour and armed with a grenade launcher, a powersword and a bionic arm due to an encounter with a melta-trap.

Mostly built out of the box, his powersword and bionic arm is just a spacemarine arm, his hair is from an escher, his paldrons are from the fantasy orc boyz kit and i greenstuffed his mustache.
 
Almost forgot sponson cover panels. Wish I could find something a bit more neat than generic IG symbol, but I have non existent 3d modeling skills. Maybe I can lift the symbol up and do some sort of text underneath.
sponson.PNG
 
Love_Machine011 said:
You think itll be fine as is? or should I go with a medium? Never used a contrast before.
Click to expand...

"contrast paints" are just thick glazes. The way citadel did it is they took a matt medium solution, added pigment and a surfactant, that way you end up with pigment that stains as a wash but behaves like a glaze, hence why you gotta wrangle where the paint tends to pool up with a wet brush. Some are good, most are bleh and some are completely baffling, like ultramarine blue.
Aethermatic is cool because it's light enough that I use it when laying down greens or transition greys.

contrast chart 1.jpg
 
agility_ said:
"contrast paints" are just thick glazes. The way citadel did it is they took a matt medium solution, added pigment and a surfactant, that way you end up with pigment that stains as a wash but behaves like a glaze, hence why you gotta wrangle where the paint tends to pool up with a wet brush. Some are good, most are bleh and some are completely baffling, like ultramarine blue.
Aethermatic is cool because it's light enough that I use it when laying down greens or transition greys.

View attachment 1484966
Click to expand...
Yea I was planning on making blue nectons, looks like the aethermatic blue will do the job perfectly. Thanks for posting the chart.
 
agility_ said:
"contrast paints" are just thick glazes. The way citadel did it is they took a matt medium solution, added pigment and a surfactant, that way you end up with pigment that stains as a wash but behaves like a glaze, hence why you gotta wrangle where the paint tends to pool up with a wet brush. Some are good, most are bleh and some are completely baffling, like ultramarine blue.
Aethermatic is cool because it's light enough that I use it when laying down greens or transition greys.

View attachment 1484966
Click to expand...
Love_Machine011 said:
Yea I was planning on making blue nectons, looks like the aethermatic blue will do the job perfectly. Thanks for posting the chart.
Click to expand...

Ive been looking through contrast painted models and I gotta say im not very impressed. The only models it looks good on deathguard and stuff like that really. Arent these supposed to be the paints for people who dont actually want to paint? It looks like the best way to use these is to just use one or 2 to get a very specific look on your base layers.
 
Love_Machine011 said:
Ive been looking through contrast painted models and I gotta say im not very impressed. The only models it looks good on deathguard and stuff like that really. Arent these supposed to be the paints for people who dont actually want to paint? It looks like the best way to use these is to just use one or 2 to get a very specific look on your base layers.
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Nah, the paint for those who don't really want to paint is airbrushing :D I just zip out a 3 tone base using a zenithal method. Also tamiya paints are an absolute godsend for airbrushing.
 
Love_Machine011 said:
airbrushing is based as fuck.
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Trying to brush paint shitty cadian models pretty much killed my enthusiasm for painting for like 4 or so years. Then I got into airbrushing my tanks and recently took it to regular minis. I'm not all that good with it, but zipping through 30 guys with a nice 3 tone shade is easy. Then I brush any specific details and do a nice oil pin wash.
 
Just Some Other Guy said:
Trying to brush paint shitty cadian models pretty much killed my enthusiasm for painting for like 4 or so years. Then I got into airbrushing my tanks and recently took it to regular minis. I'm not all that good with it, but zipping through 30 guys with a nice 3 tone shade is easy. Then I brush any specific details and do a nice oil pin wash.
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working smarter, not harder.
 
Love_Machine011 said:
Ive been looking through contrast painted models and I gotta say im not very impressed. The only models it looks good on deathguard and stuff like that really. Arent these supposed to be the paints for people who dont actually want to paint? It looks like the best way to use these is to just use one or 2 to get a very specific look on your base layers.
Click to expand...

I find Contrast works very well on very specific things, usually smaller detailed parts or areas with lots of recesses so that the pooling effect really kicks in. Otherwise I mainly use Iyanden Yellow to slap a basecoat on my Fists before layering with Yriel Yellow. It actually works pretty well and is a lot faster than any other method of painting yellow that I've tried.
 
Contrast is pretty alright for fast and effortless power weapons. Talassar blue in particular works like the old Girlyman glaze and I heard BA red over metallics was also pretty good, haven't tried it myself though.
 
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