Vehicle Maintenace General

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First or second gen Yaris personally. No battery gremlins, smol, efficient as hell, and basic.
Can confirm, mine currently has 315k miles. Started to burn about a quart of oil every 5k miles but still runs well. Replaced an alternator and CV axle on it. Even though it is lacking power, the short gearing in the first gears allows you to get up and go in city traffic. It's a solid little car.
 
Can confirm, mine currently has 315k miles. Started to burn about a quart of oil every 5k miles but still runs well. Replaced an alternator and CV axle on it. Even though it is lacking power, the short gearing in the first gears allows you to get up and go in city traffic. It's a solid little car.
The AWD Matrix/Pontiac Vibe is the best hidden gem too.
 
Daig - 08 and newer cars take a huge leap forward in tech. The ability to shade tree diag is much more difficult. I am strong advocate against guessing and just replacing parts. If you wanna DIY it, buy the service manual. If not, just let a pro diag it and you can replace it. You'll pay him for his time but you didn't waist money on parts.
I picked up one of those bluetooth Xtool A30M diagnostics thingies. Its a great one for the price but it does have 2 annoying issues:
1) Bluetooth keeps dropping out. May be my tablet though.
2) When it comes to sensor readings, the tool will often duplicate information or mislabel it. Since its designed to be universal, it won't be perfect for any one car.

Speaking of PARTS - Do not buy any parts of Amazon. We've gotten so many fake parts brought to us, even in a Honda box and its clearly Chyina garbage. Get the part from the dealer. Most dealerships these days give nation wide warranty on parts. Keep your receipt and you can get it repaired anywhere you are.
Agree but Rockauto is pretty good for aftermarket parts. If you're running a shop, go with OEM but if you're working on your own car, don't waste the money on OEM except in very crucial cases like emissions parts in states like California.
 
Agree but Rockauto is pretty good for aftermarket parts. If you're running a shop, go with OEM but if you're working on your own car, don't waste the money on OEM except in very crucial cases like emissions parts in states like California.
Yeah the fake OEM or shit pattern parts are almost exclusively for the market of people to retarded to understand they could just upgrade the car/truck with aftermarket.

For the OEM I'd add safety gear that doesn't have a reasonable replacement. Buying fake or aftermarket airbags for example is going to suck. Buying an aftermarket seat sure but buying a shitty one without proper seatbelt/harnesses.
 
For the OEM I'd add safety gear that doesn't have a reasonable replacement. Buying fake or aftermarket airbags for example is going to suck. Buying an aftermarket seat sure but buying a shitty one without proper seatbelt/harnesses.
Also anything that goes inside the oil pan or valve cover. Trying to save $20 on a cam position sensor absolutely isn't worth it if your ECU hates the signaling from the off-brand replacement and you have to dive in there again to re-replace it.
 
Yeah OEM parts are the best and I'd recommend buying a used OEM part that's still good over a cheap aftermarket knockoff, especially engine parts, go to the junkyard and get a good used sensor (unless that sensor is a pattern failure or design defect that will be bad on most used engines, then get a new one).

And most importantly, do data driven diagnosis, don't just swap parts, actually diagnose the issue, find the exact reason why something isn't working, if the problem is electrical or computer related, you can usually use a combination of OBD real-time data, voltage and oscilloscope measurements, to see the faulty component or waveform or find if it's a wiring or mechanical problem (wiring problems are common and usually misdiagnosed as sensor or other part failures), even engine mechanical problems like compression or timing problems can be identified accurately without even swapping a single part.

There are good cheap aftermarket parts. You just have to know which brands are generally good and which generally bad. Sometimes the cheapest brand will be junk and you have to go for the mid price brand. Sometimes even the cheapest brand is good enough. Stuff that's not complicated, like springs, suspension bushings, screws, even the cheapest will be plenty good enough.

But sometimes the cheapest brands are not good enough. Usually the cheapest metal parts will be bare steel, not even zinc plated or painted, so they will start rusting immediately and be very rusty in a couple years. This is common with parts like half shafts, end links, tie rods, brake discs.

Always check if it says the part is painted or zinc plated if it's a metal part. If it's all shiny and doesn't say it's plated or painted, suspect it's bare steel and count on having to degrease and paint it yourself.

Brake discs for example, the cheapest will be bare cast iron, and will start rusting fast. The mid price point parts will be painted with a silver anti corrosion paint that will make them last a lot longer. I've found which brands are painted and still pretty cheap and always stick to those. For brake parts: ATE, Ferodo, Bosch, TRW, will always be good quality.

For other parts, you have to get experience with the brands that exist for your specific vehicle, there will be different aftermarket brands covering different OEMs, and different brands in the USA vs in Europe.

Also you can sometimes visually identify which aftermarket brand sources its part from the same manufacturer that the OEM sources it from. Because your automaker doesn't produce most parts in house, they outsource it, and sometimes aftermarket companies buy the same parts from the same companies, just without the OE brand on it. But you have to have experience and usually have the parts in hand to compare them visually.

I've been doing this for over a decade, I know which parts will be good from even the cheapest brand, for which to go for the mid priced brands, and for which to always use OEM. You have to get that same experience for that.

For anyone saying to stick with a pre-2013 car: the real good stuff is ALL pre-1995. When they started shoving computers and networks into cars and started cutting on underbody rust protection. Depends on the brand, but the older stuff was nearly always better painted and rust protected. Of course time means all those old cars will have more rust and unless they were in dry climates with no winter road salt use, they'll all be more or less rusty now, and usually require at least a partial if not a complete restoration, including fixing rust, bodywork, engine repairs and general deferred maintenance.

Only get a 30+ year old car if you're ready to spend months with it torn to pieces in your garage to fix what's all wrong with it to get it back on the road. And only if you can do it all yourself, cause you'd have to be rich to pay someone else to restore a car.
 
For anyone saying to stick with a pre-2013 car: the real good stuff is ALL pre-1995. When they started shoving computers and networks into cars and started cutting on underbody rust protection. Depends on the brand, but the older stuff was nearly always better painted and rust protected
I partially agree.

Post-1995 cars definitely seem to have lower quality paint in general, but that's usually stuff like thinner clear coat or noticeable orange peel effect. Though in some extreme cases, entire sheets of paint literally fall off the car (oddly enough Toyotas are most badly affected by this). However the rustproofing of the typical 2000s car seems to be just as good as it was in the 1990s.

Most car makers finally had the galvanizing process mastered by the late '80s, which is why there are plenty of completely rust-free 20 year old cars in dry climates. The typical 2000s car in Australia will have virtually no rust but also virtually no clear coat left either.

That said, I spotted the tiniest bit of surface rust on the rear tailgate hinges of ex-Mrs Pee's 2005 Honda Jazz a couple of weeks ago.

Of course no amount of undercoating or galvanizing can defeat the effects of heavily salted winter roads in some parts of the world, but are post-1995 cars that much worse than pre-1995 ones?
 
There are some cases where OEM isn't good enough, like where my HVAC blower burned out, and I had the option of OEM for $300 or a remanufacturing company for $40. Obviously I chose the latter, and the part has lasted over 4 years as of now.
 
I partially agree.

Post-1995 cars definitely seem to have lower quality paint in general, but that's usually stuff like thinner clear coat or noticeable orange peel effect. Though in some extreme cases, entire sheets of paint literally fall off the car (oddly enough Toyotas are most badly affected by this). However the rustproofing of the typical 2000s car seems to be just as good as it was in the 1990s.

Most car makers finally had the galvanizing process mastered by the late '80s, which is why there are plenty of completely rust-free 20 year old cars in dry climates. The typical 2000s car in Australia will have virtually no rust but also virtually no clear coat left either.

That said, I spotted the tiniest bit of surface rust on the rear tailgate hinges of ex-Mrs Pee's 2005 Honda Jazz a couple of weeks ago.

Of course no amount of undercoating or galvanizing can defeat the effects of heavily salted winter roads in some parts of the world, but are post-1995 cars that much worse than pre-1995 ones?
I'm talking about pre-1995 Mercedes, that had the entire underbody coated with a couple-mm thick spray-on rubber, every cavity sprayed with wax and sealed with rubber plugs so that no water could get in. Some were even completely galvanized. Those lasted forever even in salty conditions, typically 20+ years until they started to show signs of rust. The ones I've seen here personally that are now 30+ years old have the beginning stages of critical rust underneath the rubber undercoating. I've seen them in junkyards completely rotted out too, I guess it depends on how much they were driven in the salt.
Compared to a post-95 Merc, more accurately I think it was post the Daimler-Chrysler merger, that they stopped putting undercoating on, made the chassis just spot-welded folded sheet metal covered in a single primer layer, not even seam sealed, with holes in the chassis everywhere. Those rusted out in 10-15 years. There are almost none on the road any more. A relative's late-90s Merc had rust so bad that it was unsafe for the road in under 10 years, I think it was the front spring perches or strut mounts that rusted out.
Mercedes pre- and post- Chrysler merger are two completely different companies and cars. Quality took a nosedive and was worse than competitors for a long time. Pre-95 they were built like tanks, everything was serviceable and made to be serviced, didn't require special tools, everything was built ruggedly, the interior was high quality, not a lot of breakable plastics, even after 30+ years most of them still have all original unbroken interior plastic parts, switches, knobs, etc (this is in Europe, I suppose they fared worse in hotter climates), the dash rarely cracks, there are no noises or plastic squeaks from the interior. As a mechanic they are a dream to work on compared to anything from the late-90s on. (and also compared to BMW from the same era that were ugly, had way plasticy interiors, and squeak and rattle a LOT)
They started to catch back up in the late 00's but then you already have overcomplicated computerized plastic gadgets on wheels era already.
Post-1995 cars definitely seem to have lower quality paint in general, but that's usually stuff like thinner clear coat or noticeable orange peel effect. Though in some extreme cases, entire sheets of paint literally fall off the car (oddly enough Toyotas are most badly affected by this). However the rustproofing of the typical 2000s car seems to be just as good as it was in the 1990s.
Yeah, maybe Toyota was better at rustproofing at that time. There were a lot of bad cars pre-95 too, usually the cheap small econoboxes that were produced for the poorest masses, would rust fast too.
If you're looking for a vintage car these days, there's a lot of survivor bias, you don't see those that have died already, so those that survive are usually good specimens. But beware and always thoroughly inspect everything, especially the underbody, chassis and suspension, there are flippers out there that will hide the rust under filler and paint and scam people, they usually focus on the body that is visible from the top and not the underbody, so you could have a freshly painted mint looking car with a lot of hidden rust and structural issues. Even to the point they're unsafe to drive.
Most car makers finally had the galvanizing process mastered by the late '80s, which is why there are plenty of completely rust-free 20 year old cars in dry climates. The typical 2000s car in Australia will have virtually no rust but also virtually no clear coat left either.
Galvanizing was an exception that was reserved only for the upper-end luxury cars, all others were just painted (to various degrees of success)
That said, I spotted the tiniest bit of surface rust on the rear tailgate hinges of ex-Mrs Pee's 2005 Honda Jazz a couple of weeks ago.
Often the rust is hidden underneath the plastics covering the underbody, where the manufacturer skimps with paint since it's not a vidible part, where it gets wet and collects road salt and dirt in inaccessible places that can't get washed out. You find it when you take off the plastics. Though I'm not experienced with anything except Merc's so I can't say how the Fit is made.
There are some cases where OEM isn't good enough, like where my HVAC blower burned out, and I had the option of OEM for $300 or a remanufacturing company for $40. Obviously I chose the latter, and the part has lasted over 4 years as of now.
Some OEMs have dropped QC so far that they get batches of defective parts. In that case aftermarket will definitely be better, But it's normally the other way around.

RE: hybrids and EVs
The added complication outweighs any fuel savings. The manufacturing costs of the additional parts, the long-term added failure points and parts availability being questionable past 10 years, make them a short-term consumer item, made to be thrown away after the warranty expires.
Even if you ignore the long term parts availability for the stuff like inverters, cables, batteries, controllers, the software and programming of those controllers and computers is proprietary and once those computers start dying after 10+ years, nobody is making them any more, so you have no option to repair them (even remanufacturing will become unviable once the originals run out).
That is if the software has been cracked or reverse engineered enough to be able to service them. With newer cars the software is often locked down so much that any programming requires an online connection to the OEM's cloud servers with the officially licensed expensive tool they require, so after the OEM shuts the support down, programming is dead.

This is what will ultimately kill all modern computerized cars: the computers dying or becoming unserviceable. It being illegal to replace the original computers with aftermarket ones due to emissions and safety laws prohibiting tampering with any emissions or safaty components on a car.

A car without proprietary electronics and software, that is completely mechanical, will still be serviceable 100 years from now, even if all the original manufacturing plans and blueprints have been lost, you can just take it apart, measure each component and make new ones from scratch: there's nothing "hidden" or "protected" (either by the difficulty of reverse engineering or illegal because of intellectual property laws) such as software and chips inside a computer module.

EVs are an even bigger money pit: the relative affordability of them in recent times is all because they have been heavily subsidized by other means, but all that money to build them has gone from all of our pockets with inflation anyway. We all subsidized the manufacturing and creation of these cars that are not price or efficiency competitive to ICE cars.

They were subsidized by forcing auto makers to make them in the first place. They had to spend money that they got from their income or from taking loans, to design and build them. Then because they were not competitive with ICE cars the consumers had to be forced to buy them with subsidies. Then all their "dirty" manufacturing, like mining and refining of raw minerals and their onstruction and assembly into half-products was made overseas in foreign countries that don't have the environmental or worker protection laws that Western countries do.

Then their efficiency, if you account for all the losses in the electricity power plant, transformers and transmission lines, the grid, the charger, until it gets into the battery, is worse than an ICE car burning the fuel directly.
But you know who built and maintained that electricity grid and those power plants? You, via your taxes, inflation, or electricity bill. It's all subsidized, so the energy price is unrealistically low.
 
I'm talking about pre-1995 Mercedes
In that case, absolutely. However there are plenty of other brands that managed to maintain their build quality (e,g. Toyota, Honda), improve their build quality between 1995 and 2010 (e.g. Mazda, Kia, Mitsubishi) or only really turned to shit from the late '00s onwards (e.g. Ford, VW, Nissan). To say that all post-1995 cars are worse than pre-1995 ones is a misnomer.

That being said, most (if not all) cars from around 2015 onwards are definitely worse than their predecessors.
Galvanizing was an exception that was reserved only for the upper-end luxury cars, all others were just painted (to various degrees of success)
It was, which is why the 40 year old Benzes, Volvos and Saabs that are still on the road don't have much rust relatively speaking, whereas everything else (especially Italian and Japanese) has long turned to powder. But I haven't seen too many badly rusted 1990s Toyotas or Hondas where I live.
I'm not experienced with anything except Merc's so I can't say how the Fit is made
The particular example I'm referring to is clean and rust-free underneath, and it's not like it's been garaged all its life. We lived in a house with a gravel driveway for about 15 years, which is a perfect recipe for a damp underbody and subsequent corrosion.

Japanese manufacturers well and truly nailed the car building process by the 2000's, but they've gone backwards since then because of cost cutting and general enshittification.
 
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I have a 2000 Dodge 1500 that I have partially built out for traveling/camping. I need new shocks and tires. I am pretty sure replacing the shocks is within my skill set, I do need advice on what to purchase though. I have looked online and found some that look nice but I have no practical knowledge of what I am looking at. They do not have to be the beefiest most bad-ass shocks out there, it is rear wheel drive and while I do go off road, I stay out of mud pits and extreme inclines. One of the reasons I want new shocks is that I heard that I can possibly get a little extra height out of them so that I can put larger more aggressive tires on her. Price is not really an issue, I realize that quality is expensive, however I am not rich or anything so semi economical would be fantastic. Any help or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
 
I have a 2000 Dodge 1500 that I have partially built out for traveling/camping. I need new shocks and tires. I am pretty sure replacing the shocks is within my skill set, I do need advice on what to purchase though. I have looked online and found some that look nice but I have no practical knowledge of what I am looking at. They do not have to be the beefiest most bad-ass shocks out there, it is rear wheel drive and while I do go off road, I stay out of mud pits and extreme inclines. One of the reasons I want new shocks is that I heard that I can possibly get a little extra height out of them so that I can put larger more aggressive tires on her. Price is not really an issue, I realize that quality is expensive, however I am not rich or anything so semi economical would be fantastic. Any help or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
I did some looking around and you're really limited by the truck being 2WD. The rear of your truck can accept the same parts as a 4x4 but the front is totally different. You're basically restricted to leveling kits which will raise the front end to match the height of the rear. Here's a thread with before and after pictures and written instructions on how to do the install. https://dodgeforum.com/forum/2nd-ge...-leveling-kit-complete-before-after-pics.html

Rough country makes a kit, I generally recommend staying away from Rough Country but it's hard to screw up a spacer. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/rou-7578/make/dodge/model/ram-1500/submodel/sport/year/2000

A good shock absorber makes a huge difference. I have Bilstein 5100s and I am confident they will outlast me, never mind the vehicle they're installed on, but the way they are valved they amplify the impact of very small bumps (because of stiction - the amount of force it takes to initiate movement) when there's no weight in the vehicle and ride great when there is weight in the vehicle. I've had them for about 4 or 5 years and they still look brand new even though it's primarily a winter vehicle now and they are exposed to salt on the roads. I've toyed with buying a less robust more comfortable shock, it might be worth having to change them out down the road with how little mileage I put on the truck.

Even if your truck was a 4x4 I would advise thinking long and hard about going down the bigger tire + lift upgrade path. Unless you spend close to $10,000 on parts every other characteristic of your truck will be worsened; NVH, drivability (You're increasing the top heaviness and negatively changing the angles of the steering linkage) ride quality, fuel efficiency (lifts expose more tire frontal area), more maintenance (greasing or rebuilding joints), possibly reliability and for every inch increase in tire diameter you only gain half of that in ground clearance.

Good tires will make a bigger difference than anything else you can do to it. Get some K03 or AT4Ws, a leveling kit, new shocks and call it a day. For most people with 4x4s I'd recommend just starting with a spacer kit. It's not the "right way" to lift a vehicle but you can get a taste of what a lift is like and decide if you really want to do it the "right way" (long arm kit) down the road.
 
There are like 3 car maintenance threads I really wish they were all merged together.

Anyways I feel retarded. So I was talking about things with someone who happened to own a car with the same engine as mine and we ended up discussing the high fuel prices of late. He mentioned he is putting premium gas in his car and I mentioned that my manual said regular was fine for my car... Anyways I just reread it and realized it infact says "premium recommended plus ok" I have been putting regular in this car for about two years without any issues and my mileage is only slightly below average compared to the same year and model.

I'm questioning if it's even worth it to switch to plus at this point. My fuel level reader is also broken so to get the tank low would be a risky operation in itself.
 
Depends how old it is. Anything with a reasonably sophisticated ECU will adjust spark timing, compression, etc. to account for lower knock resistance if you fill up with 87. Modern "muscle" cars (lol) are usually dual-rated: you can fill up with anything, but you only get the mileage and horsepower on the sticker if you use 93 (or 91 for some cars, though that's hard to find in much of the country).
 
My dad just got me my first car. We waited a while until we were done moving and all that jazz, so we had time to settle. We both agreed on a 07 Honda Fit, and it's easily one of the best starter cars. Got the 5speed manual. Had to adjust my parking break cable today, and it was only 2 screws to get the entire center console off.

It's at 141k on the odometer right now, at least want to bring it to 350k and I will post updates on any repairs I will need to do in the future.
 
Depends how old it is. Anything with a reasonably sophisticated ECU will adjust spark timing, compression, etc. to account for lower knock resistance if you fill up with 87. Modern "muscle" cars (lol) are usually dual-rated: you can fill up with anything, but you only get the mileage and horsepower on the sticker if you use 93 (or 91 for some cars, though that's hard to find in much of the country).

If you fill up your premium car with 87 just admit your poor lol, this is correct, but on older cars especially the ECU actually will start having a seizure trying to figure out how to stop having 87 pre detonate, I have had multiple customers at my job come in for misfires, only to find out they put 87 in a car that needs premium. Onece had a gas station accidentally give my subaru EZ30D 87 instead of 93 once and it started shaking like it had tourettes.
 
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Jesus fucking Christ. After replacing a broken climate control computer, blower, blower resistor/controller, one blend door motor, both blend door mechanical links(which required the use of sheers, a hacksaw and hammer btw". The Saab is finally putting out air, cold air... and cold air. The fucking heater core isn't working... I am going to fucking lose my mind whoever designed the HVAC on this thing should be executed.
 
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