Ultrasonic Cleaning

[BondoBob]

Anyone have much experience with using ultrasonic cleaners? I have been using a new ultrasonic machine I purchased for about 2 weeks now to clean dogproof traps I run. I figured it would be a better way to take the dirt and detritus off of them before doing my normal cleaning process (I soak them in high concentration vinegar to take rust off, hit them with a wire brush, paint and lubricate them). It's a 3L machine that operates at 40 khz, though if I could go back and buy another model, I would consider getting a variable power unit that could operate at 40, 80, and 120 khz.

Any suggestions for solvents or tips/tricks would be appreciated. I've looked at several other outdoors, trapper and chicken forums I belong to and got some of the basics (ie, run the heating element at 50-70 C during cleaning because warm water conducts the cavitation action better, use water with a few drops of Dawn in it to cut the surface tension of the water, degas prior to running any cleaning cycles, etc) but more would be helpful.

I am currently using plastic bags (think generic gallon freezer bags with a ziploc) filled with a diluted 3:1 mix of water and simple green and thus far it has been pretty effective. I know some industrial applications I have seen for them like cleaning carburetor parts, engine parts, tools, or chainsaw parts use solvents like gasoline in a plastic or glass jar. I would be reticent to try this unless I ran the machine on an outside table because of the fumes and flammability near a heating element. I imagine when I use it to clean and service my snowblower, I will likely also use diluted simple green and maybe an old pickle jar or large mason jar.

Thanks in advance for any insight.

 

[Sneaky lurker]

Is that the thing that cleans objects by blowing ultra fast bubbles at them?
Maybe if we drop a human in there we can clean their evil away.
Can you do experiments with your water air fryer? What happens if you drop a living being in there?

 

[i440BX]

I would like some recommendation on what ultrasonic cleaners should I get. I heard chinese ones from VEVOR got recalled for having dodgy earthing and i also heard their steel isnt great.

I plan to clean electronics and keyboard parts.
I think I would need a cleaner that uses between 5l and 10l.

 

[monk]

I use one to clean car parts. It's not very strong, even filled with high concentration degreaser, it won't take all the baked on oil varnish off by itself without manual scrubbing. It didn't have an insulated tub so it cooled down when on due to the fan it has to cool the electronics also cooling down the tub, so I put in some glass wool to insulate just the tub while leaving the electronics exposed to enough cooling airflow..

It's hard to know if what you're buying is actually strong or not, due to the low construction quality of cheap chinese junk. In any case I'd highly recommend getting the type that has mechanical thermostat and timer with knobs instead of the type with digital displays and buttons, due to the ease of use and higher reliability.

 

[the khat quaffer]

Plenty, mostly industrial. But one time I used a wet bench ultrasonic cleaner to clean my glasses, which apparently was a no no in the lab.
I stuck my glasses in a beaker of IPA and submerged the beaker in the ultrasonic for 15 seconds 5 minutes (I forget the frequency) and air-dried them with N2 @ 40 psi. I was impressed and kept doing this. Streak-free, every time.

I'm a clean freak so regular lens wipes are not enough. But if you can't carry around an ultrasonic cleaner in your pocket, they are fine.

edit: corrections

 

[Iron Hamster]

I use one all the time mainly for power equipment carburetors. I usually soak them in Chem-Dip then into the ultrasonic with Dawn for an hour or 2 and have great results. What you are cleaning kind of dictates what you use.

I'm sure you've seen plastics do this:


And this is what they look like after using ammonia in the ultrasonic for an hour:

 

[Unique Username KF]

I'm sure you've seen plastics do this:

no what is that

 

[Taser Confetti]

One should almost be considered mandatory if you’re going to buy a suppressor.

 

[Iron Hamster]

no what is that

Chemical Breakdown (Outgassing): Old plastics, especially cellulose acetate butyrate (common in older screwdrivers), release butyric acid as they break down, which has a distinct, vomit-like odor.
"Screwdriver Mange": A powdery white residue often forms on the surface of these handles, indicating the plastic is degrading and producing the odor.

 

[Lord Xenu]

I use one all the time mainly for power equipment carburetors

I use one all the time for the same thing. Carbs and whatever other small stuff I have to clean, including tools.
I've been using a WD-40 shop floor cleaner/de-greaser diluted with (about) 3 parts water.

And this is what they look like after using ammonia in the ultrasonic for an hour:

I tried to clean a pocket knife with a G10 (fibreglass & epoxy) handle a few weeks ago, the blue dye came out and the handle is now grey. I was just using dish soap and water. I've used ammonia to clean aluminum carb before, and it came back slightly discolored. I might post a picture of it later with another for comparison if anyone is interested. It's just a bit darker grey though.

I heard chinese ones from VEVOR got recalled for having dodgy earthing and i also heard their steel isnt great.

I have a (supposedly) 6L chinese one, its not Vevor branded, but looks the same. One of the complaints in the reviews was that the heat doesnt shut off when the timer goes off. It's handy that it's not married to the timer as you can preheat the solution before you start the cycle, but according to the reviews, if you leave the heat on too long without vibration the element will fail. I'm assuming its because the cavitation cools it or something, idk. Anyway I just make sure to keep an eye on it and shut the heat off when its done.

FYI, mine was listed as 6L, and it does fit that if you fill it to the lid. The actual fill line is at about 5L.

 

[Iron Hamster]

I've used ammonia to clean aluminum carb before, and it came back slightly discolored. I might post a picture of it later with another for comparison if anyone is interested. It's just a bit darker grey though.

I was told at an update seminar that some cleaners remove some protective coating the carbs have. I don't know if that meant the oxidation or something else. I have had the same discoloring as you but never had an issue with the carb afterward.

 

[Lord Xenu]

never had an issue with the carb afterward.

That's my experience as well. When it happened, I googled a bit and saw some people saying not to use ammonia on aluminum because it could weaken it, but I dont know anything about that. It was just a carb for a string trimmer, so the color doesn't matter, and it seems to be working fine.

I figured I would mention it for anyone restoring a bike or something where the appearance might make a difference. I only tried ammonia once, it doesnt seem to work much better than soap or degreaser, so I never bothered with it again.

Sometimes an aluminum part will start getting that white colored oxidation almost immediately, so I generally blow them off with compressed air and give it a light squirt of WD-40 soon as I get it out of the machine, that seems to do the trick.

 

[i440BX]

I use one all the time mainly for power equipment carburetors. I usually soak them in Chem-Dip then into the ultrasonic with Dawn for an hour or 2 and have great results. What you are cleaning kind of dictates what you use.

I'm sure you've seen plastics do this:
View attachment 8986010

And this is what they look like after using ammonia in the ultrasonic for an hour:
View attachment 8986020

I think these are CAB handles? I don't know what causes the white fungus, but I heard the substance caused by the fungi can prodce butyric acid, which smells really bad.

 

[monk]

beaker of IPA and submerged the beaker in the ultrasonic

Using flammable liquids is dangerous as they get heated which makes them evaporate faster, combined with the close presence of electrical switches that can produce arcs which can ignite the flammable vapors.
I've seen some people do it and get away with it, including using straight chem-dip directly, but I wouldn't risk it.

One of the complaints in the reviews was that the heat doesnt shut off when the timer goes off. It's handy that it's not married to the timer as you can preheat the solution before you start the cycle, but according to the reviews, if you leave the heat on too long without vibration the element will fail. I'm assuming its because the cavitation cools it or something, idk.

That's one of the best features. You turn on the heat, wait an hour or two (it takes a while for it to heat up to 50-60C, even longer if your garage is cold in the winter), then load it and turn on the ultrasonic. After a while, turn off the ultrasonic, lift the basket, take a part with your hands (with gloves of course) and scrub with a brush to get the tough stuff off. Then put it back in and turn the ultrasonic back on, the heat was on all the time.

I've used ammonia to clean aluminum carb before, and it came back slightly discolored.

Aluminum, magnesium and other diecast alloys are sensitive to pH, they'll dissolve in too basic solutions, IIRC the limit for aluminum is about pH 10-11. If you dilute the cleaner (I use degreaser) so that it's less basic than that, it shouldn't discolor.
On the other hand, I've cleaned cast aluminum alloy in strong degreaser, it even started bubbling, like it was having a chemical reaction, it got slightly discolored, but it didn't affect it other than visually. Don't leave it in for longer than necessary or it will start dissolving.
Even in the weak solution, it will start to get pitted after more than a couple hours. Once I left a part overnight and had lots of small erosion pits all over.

Oh and another tip: pre clean greasy or oily parts. It'll work much faster and the solution will last a lot longer. I have a plastic kitty litter tray that I put the parts into, then a squirt bottle of regular gasoline and various brushes. Clean out the tray with gasoline. Of course only do this outside and try not to breath it in, it's best if there's a slight breeze or you turn on a fan to blow the gasoline vapors away from you. They're toxic and will give you a headache (and are probably cancerous). Always use gloves and change them if they tear. Nitrile works best. You don't want chemicals on your skin. Oh and safety glasses, cause stuff will splash into your eyes otherwise.

 

[Boldizar]

Is that the thing that cleans objects by blowing ultra fast bubbles at them?
Maybe if we drop a human in there we can clean their evil away.
Can you do experiments with your water air fryer? What happens if you drop a living being in there?

Jews. Jews.

 

[the khat quaffer]

Using flammable liquids is dangerous as they get heated which makes them evaporate faster, combined with the close presence of electrical switches that can produce arcs which can ignite the flammable vapors.
I've seen some people do it and get away with it, including using straight chem-dip directly, but I wouldn't risk it.

yeah true dat, but this bench-top ultrasonic was used with room-temperature DI water under a fume hood. I mean, I'm not schoopid. Though boy do I have some NDA type stories. Safety regs are indeed written in blood.

I will say Re: the acetone/organic solvents thing, a fella I knew found out the hard way to the tune of a few tens of thou that acetone will leave a residue that just won't quit on a semiconductor waffle. $10,000 is a popcorn fart of a rounding error, but that could have been millions (and a scalp).