Squeaky Doors a.k.a. Lubrication General

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George Lucas

George Lucas

Literal troll account
kiwifarms.net
Joined
Jul 3, 2021
My back door was driving me crazy with squeaks so I put some 3-in-1 silicone lubricant in the hinges to quiet it down. I doubt that’s going to last though. Anything else I can do without having to pull the door down? These are simple builder-grade hinges, so if I do take them down, any recommendations for better hinges?
 
WD-40 is a water displacement formula that turns gummy after a few months, if you rely on it for serious lubrication applications you will get what you jokering deserve.
 
Graphite lube is the best, I use it for damn near everything. Noise is usually a symptom of binding, but if your not having any fitment issues (like sticking or if so it only happens during weather changes) it good be a dirty hinge. I would recommend take take each pin out, 1 at a time clean it with dawn dish soap, then apply the graphite lube, reinsert the pin and wipe the whole hinge with some graphite and a rag. I do maintenance for a living and this is how I do it. Silicon is great but it sticky and you end up making it worse a lot of the time, the same goes for any wet lube, it attracts gunk, hence the graphite.
 
Steve Harwell's ghost said:
Graphite lube is the best, I use it for damn near everything. Noise is usually a symptom of binding, but if your not having any fitment issues (like sticking or if so it only happens during weather changes) it good be a dirty hinge. I would recommend take take each pin out, 1 at a time clean it with dawn dish soap, then apply the graphite lube, reinsert the pin and wipe the whole hinge with some graphite and a rag. I do maintenance for a living and this is how I do it. Silicon is great but it sticky and you end up making it worse a lot of the time, the same goes for any wet lube, it attracts gunk, hence the graphite.
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If you use dry graphite lube on something you can only ever use dry graphite on it unless you first clean it out. If you add a liquid lube to it it turns to gunk.
 
Steve Harwell's ghost said:
Graphite lube is the best, I use it for damn near everything. Noise is usually a symptom of binding, but if your not having any fitment issues (like sticking or if so it only happens during weather changes) it good be a dirty hinge. I would recommend take take each pin out, 1 at a time clean it with dawn dish soap, then apply the graphite lube, reinsert the pin and wipe the whole hinge with some graphite and a rag. I do maintenance for a living and this is how I do it. Silicon is great but it sticky and you end up making it worse a lot of the time, the same goes for any wet lube, it attracts gunk, hence the graphite.
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How likely is graphite to stain the trim though?
 
Missaligned hinges squeak like hell and cause pins to walk out. You also don't need to take the door off to do hinges, just swap one at a time. I lube mine with dry bicycle chain lube.
 
George Lucas said:
How likely is graphite to stain the trim though?
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Its actually quite clean, no staining and any mess is easy to cleanup. Its a lot cleaner than any wet lube. If you end up having issues just use dawn soap and an old tooth brush to clean it off and try something different. I hate to support PTFE but is quite good as well, though its toxic and more of pain to clean off.
 
Dawdler said:
Any grease is good enough for the hinges. You may have to remove the doors to get proper access.
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For door hinges and the like, I like the white lithium grease (also great in your AK, btw), though a thin layer of almost any actual grease will work great. For locks with sticky keyways or cylinders, I like Houdini Lock Lube, though Gunscrubber (a similar solvent + lubricant spray schmoo) also works well - graphite is fine for a while but it's super messy.

Don't have any recommendations for hinges, but one of these spring-powered hinge pin removal tools works great for getting your existing hinges apart.
 
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Let me preach to you the good word of ISO 68. It's clear, it's dielectric, it's even available in food grade. It can be used in hydraulics. It can be used as a way oil in things like lathes. It's a serviceable cutting fluid. It's light weight but won't simply run off of whatever you're applying it to. Pretty much anything you would use WD-40 to "lubricate", ISO 68 will work better. It doesn't take much, which is good because it is rather expensive. That said it is worth it.
 
BelUwUga said:
Let me preach to you the good word of ISO 68. It's clear, it's dielectric, it's even available in food grade. It can be used in hydraulics. It can be used as a way oil in things like lathes. It's a serviceable cutting fluid. It's light weight but won't simply run off of whatever you're applying it to. Pretty much anything you would use WD-40 to "lubricate", ISO 68 will work better. It doesn't take much, which is good because it is rather expensive. That said it is worth it.
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ISO 68 just means 68 weight oil. Did you just mean kv40 68 cSt oil, because all of those are different lubricants with different additives.
 
Mister Fister said:
ISO 68 just means 68 weight oil. Did you just mean kv40 68 cSt oil, because all of those are different lubricants with different additives.
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This is what I go for
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Available in as little as 4oz or up to 55 gallon drums.
 
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