'No Stupid Questions' (NSQ) Internet & Technology Edition

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Anyone making a g502 shaped mouse with a smart scroll wheel you got to recommend?

Equivalent Logitech was similar in price and doesn't have the smart clutch on the wheel.
Man I feel you. Got a G502 HERO with a braided cable and I fear to think what I'll have to look for when it kicks the bucket. Logitech still has the best shapes and designs, but the build quality price-wise is a no-go. Razer Basilisk is a close clone of what makes the G502 so great but it's not really the same, also still overpriced.

Besides the four-way scroll wheel with free spin, what makes the G502 so great are the four extra macro buttons you can program. Just the right amount in all the right places to improve your productivity. I know that Keychron has the M6 which is a clone of the MX Master, but again, that's not the same as it's missing those extra macro buttons. The G502 nailed that niche of "good enough for gaming but also great for productivity" mice, which is the real appeal of it.

Also mouse.
 
Maybe not the stupidest question but I'll hit you with my situation
> Long standing minor memory issues causing instability, maybe getting worse
> I have 4 sticks of 32 GB DDR4 (why yes; I am autistic)
> Decide enough is enough, run Memtest
> Fails, in the same spot 16.8gb
> Assume this is the second (01) stick/rail
> Swap sticks 2 (01) and 4 (03)
> Still fails at 16.8gb
> Assume it's the rail
> Leave rail open
> Still fail 16.8GB

Am I right to assume this is a hardware failure in my motherboard and I should letter bomb ASUS to try to get a refund?
My first guess is there is something wrong with your memory controller when using both memory channels. Try pulling both DIMMs on the channel that is failing at 16.8GB (sounds like this is 01 and 03, check your motherboard manual). You might also want to try testing 1 DIMM at a time in each socket to see if this isolates where the problem is.

I had a similar problem years ago with a system that was very unstable with any RAM in the A channel. I ended up moving all my DIMMs to the B channel and the system was stable for years after that.

Given ASUS' current reputation for build quality and customer support, I would try to get my money back and buy a board from a different manufacturer if I was in your situation.
 
My first guess is there is something wrong with your memory controller when using both memory channels. Try pulling both DIMMs on the channel that is failing at 16.8GB (sounds like this is 01 and 03, check your motherboard manual). You might also want to try testing 1 DIMM at a time in each socket to see if this isolates where the problem is.

I had a similar problem years ago with a system that was very unstable with any RAM in the A channel. I ended up moving all my DIMMs to the B channel and the system was stable for years after that.

Given ASUS' current reputation for build quality and customer support, I would try to get my money back and buy a board from a different manufacturer if I was in your situation.
Long story short I eventually just tested 1 at a time and found that it was in fact just one of them

Also the manual was pretty fucking worthless and the recommended two stick configuration of A2 and B2 (second and forth from the back to front) mapped to slots 02 and 03 in Memtest for whatever reason
 
I used to hear that battery life measured in recharging cycles, so less you use your charger - the better. Now they say full recharge puts too much stress on the battery, so you should avoid charging your devices up to 100 and discharging to 1.

I just want my battery to degrade slower. What do, wise kiwibros?
 
I used to hear that battery life measured in recharging cycles, so less you use your charger - the better. Now they say full recharge puts too much stress on the battery, so you should avoid charging your devices up to 100 and discharging to 1.

I just want my battery to degrade slower. What do, wise kiwibros?
i tried just to keep the battery between 30 and 80% without putting my iphone into the battery save mode, my phone got fucked harder within 2 years than just loading it from 0 to 100. in 5 years your battery just dies anyway, there seems to be no correct solution, at least from my experience.
 
I have another stupid one just for you, @herefortheactualthreads
Why do you react to every single post here with thumbs ups? Its not like i am against it, just curious
to be honest i dont fucking know. its a mix of actually liking the post, OCD, and just making sure i am up to date with the previous post. i just like to give people emotes.
 
I'm not sure if this is the right thread for this but is this a good plan for a gaming pc? I made this a while ago and I'm wondering if it still holds up.
gaming pc.webp
 
Biggest thing I see is the Asrock motherboard. I can't remember which models that were causing it, but there was (is?) an issue with Asus/Asrock board killing 9800x3d's so you might want to just double check that.

Also depending on your budget and what you do with the PC, it might be worth going straight to 64GB ram (2x32) so you don't have to think about it in the future. A lot of AM5 boards are iffy about filling out all the ram slots, so to upgrade in the future you'd need to get rid of your old ram kit. If you're doing pure unmodded gaming 32GB is fine, but we're in the age of inefficient bloat so having the extra overhead to let you have 6-7 chrome tabs open (or playing with video editing/virtual machines/etc) is nice too.
 
I'm getting mixed signals if Alder Lake/ Intel Gen 12 supports M.2 5.0 drives. Does anyone know the answer to this?
According to the Alder Lake specs, those CPUs have lanes able to support PCIe 5.0 capable devices; you should be able to use such a drive [to its full performance] in an M.2 slot provided the PCIe lanes/slot its on supports up to PCIe 5.0 mode.

I'm not sure if this is the right thread for this but is this a good plan for a gaming pc? I made this a while ago and I'm wondering if it still holds up.
That PSU wattage is really overkill; I think you would probably would be good with a 600W unit or fine with a 500W unit unless you were thinking of getting a beefier GPU down the line with higher TDP.
 
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Biggest thing I see is the Asrock motherboard. I can't remember which models that were causing it, but there was (is?) an issue with Asus/Asrock board killing 9800x3d's so you might want to just double check that.

Also depending on your budget and what you do with the PC, it might be worth going straight to 64GB ram (2x32) so you don't have to think about it in the future. A lot of AM5 boards are iffy about filling out all the ram slots, so to upgrade in the future you'd need to get rid of your old ram kit. If you're doing pure unmodded gaming 32GB is fine, but we're in the age of inefficient bloat so having the extra overhead to let you have 6-7 chrome tabs open (or playing with video editing/virtual machines/etc) is nice too.
Is there a different motherboard you recommend? Also right now I only have 16gb of ram and that seems to be enough for most things. So I think 32 should be plenty.
That PSU wattage is really overkill; I think you would probably would be good with a 600W unit or fine with a 500W unit unless you were thinking of getting a beefier GPU down the line with higher TDP.
I do want to get a better one at some point.
 
So I got a new motherboard that is wifi capable but despite downloading the BIOS and the current drivers for my cpu it still won't connect to my wifi. I have an MSI 670E Tomahawk and I can't seem to get it to connect. My hardware knowledge is pretty shit so anyone that has any ideas would he appreciated.
 
I tried to upgrade to Windows 10 IOT Enterprise 2022 via massgrave and using the instructions to add something to the registry and everything went okay until it started asking me to put in the activation code in the installation process. I may have fucked something up.
 
I tried to upgrade to Windows 10 IOT Enterprise 2022 via massgrave and using the instructions to add something to the registry and everything went okay until it started asking me to put in the activation code in the installation process. I may have fucked something up.
 
Seems like it's for if you ALREADY have it installed, not if running an installation process with no way to just click through.
2025-06-26 18_12_05-'No Stupid Questions' (NSQ) Internet & Technology Edition _ Page 201 _ Ki...webp
 
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Anyone know where I can get a clean copy of Windows 7 to run in a virtual box? Being paranoid and convinced that any copy on internet archive with disabled reviews is carrying malware that I don't want. Am I just better off getting an installer and installing it myself?
 
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