Mega Rad Gun Thread

  • Want to keep track of this thread?
    Accounts can bookmark posts, watch threads for updates, and jump back to where you stopped reading.
    Create account
Modern intermediate cartridge rifles in 5.56 and 5.45 will overpenetrate less than a pistol firing 9mm ball or a shotgun loaded with 000 buck, at least out of a barrel long enough to speed the bullet up to the proper speed. Might not out of an 8.5" super shorty AR pistol, but out of a 14.5" absolutely. The bullet is light and starts to tumble or shatters after the first few sheets of drywall, it doesn't retain energy well at all after that.



A relatively short barreled carbine like an AR-15 with a 14.5 or maybe even 10.5" barrel. It will be loud as fuck though. Might want to have a pair of active headphones on the gun to put on if/when you need to do something.

Alternatively look into a pistol caliber carbine and load it with non-ball ammo. It'll still overpenetrate far more than 5.56 but it will be slightly less destructive for your ears.

Still, I'd favor a tried and true 00 buckshot over a gimmicky and glorified .22 magnum round that costs a crapload of money. Can't really nig out if your lungs are shot out by 9 pellets from point blank.

Range toys are fun and all but trying to build a home and self defense plan around them is just a waste of time and money. I don't get my K31 out if I hear someone trying to break in. I grab my Mossberg 590A1 with the Surefire forend so I have lighting and plenty of power to kill whoever is trying to do me harm. Unless it's a werewolf, then I grab my gun with silver bullets.
 
Still, I'd favor a tried and true 00 buckshot over a gimmicky and glorified .22 magnum round that costs a crapload of money. Can't really nig out if your lungs are shot out by 9 pellets from point blank.

Range toys are fun and all but trying to build a home and self defense plan around them is just a waste of time and money. I don't get my K31 out if I hear someone trying to break in. I grab my Mossberg 590A1 with the Surefire forend so I have lighting and plenty of power to kill whoever is trying to do me harm. Unless it's a werewolf, then I grab my gun with silver bullets.

I'm not arguing for the PS90 in any way. Tiny bullets meant to defeat body armor, but then hamstrung by US regulations to be less penetrating - what's the point? Plus they cost a lot, the gun isn't even properly compact like a real P90, etc.

I would say that ease of follow-up shots and mag capacity makes a carbine AR15 the best choice IMHO. You can hit a guy 3-4 times in the same time it would take you to shoot the Mossberg and then line up a follow-up.
 
I'm not arguing for the PS90 in any way. Tiny bullets meant to defeat body armor, but then hamstrung by US regulations to be less penetrating - what's the point? Plus they cost a lot, the gun isn't even properly compact like a real P90, etc.

I would say that ease of follow-up shots and mag capacity makes a carbine AR15 the best choice IMHO. You can hit a guy 3-4 times in the same time it would take you to shoot the Mossberg and then line up a follow-up.
That is true, that is true. I guess we are on the same page with get what is affordable and proven and practice with it. Also don't live in a neighborhood full of niggers.
 
I'll stick with the .50 beowulf AR-15 for home defense. Relatively low pressure rounds, think shotgun slugs with proper hollow points with all the benefits of an AR-15, save for the capacity.
 
It's a 335gr JHP slug traveling at ~1850fps at the muzzle in an accurate, easy to control package. It's not too crazy expensive to shoot, and I don't have to worry about the round traveling a half a mile if I miss. Does great work against hogs, too.
 
It's a 335gr JHP slug traveling at ~1850fps at the muzzle in an accurate, easy to control package. It's not too crazy expensive to shoot, and I don't have to worry about the round traveling a half a mile if I miss. Does great work against hogs, too.

It's still a meme cartridge that requires a special upper and bolt and only fits something like 8 shots in a full size STANAG. Also overpenetration is likely still a massive issue with these bullets because they're massive and aren't going fast enough to destabilize and shatter like small caliber intermediate rounds, like 5.56 does. It's more of a pistol round which, even with very good soft nose, hollowpoints, etc will still go through many many layers of drywall and plywood in a house.

There's a reason the US mil doesn't use .458 SOCOM or .50 Beowulf much, if at all.
 
Last edited:
Lehigh Defense makes some bullets for the 50 Beowulf that won't overpenetrate as badly. Of course, they're expensive enough that you may as well use silver bullets instead, in case of werewolves.

I'll stick with my Glock in .40 and decent hollow points.
 
how does birdshot compare to buckshot when it comes to stopping power?
birdshot is designed and primarily used for small game and birds (doves, quail, pheasant, duck, goose, grouse, and the like. smaller shot will pattern wider and has a greater chance of striking a bird in flight, or a particularly fast and small animal on the ground. small animals tend to not have very thick hides. there is a large variety of birdshot out there, but the commonly found is #8 birdshot, which is 0.095" in diameter, and you get about 350 pellets in your average shell, fired at about 1,250 feet per second. a lead pellet that size transfers a little over 375 energy ft lbs if all pellets strike the target.

shotgun-ammo-feature-1.jpg


"stopping power" is generally thought of as the ability incapacitate something in a short period of time. your typical buckshot shell will have 00 sized pellets, about 0.24" in diameter, and you get 9, 12 or 15 in a shell, but 9 being the most common. these are fired with the same powder charge as most other shells, so will try and get up to 1250 feet per second. if one pellet strikes the target, it would transfer about 200 energy ft lbs. one pellet out of nine pellets striking the target would transfer two-thirds the energy of the entire shot charge from the #8 shell.

or for simpler math, about 1800 or so energy ft lbs transferred if all pellets strike the intended target.

birdshot has trouble penetrating deeply into human skin, let alone deep enough to cause serious "stopping" of a determined attacker wearing thick clothing or carrying around some extra weight around the middle. if birdshot is all you have, and you're close enough to strike with nearly all the pellets, and you fire at a vital area, i'm sure birdshot can get the job done.

in case you're of the mind that you don't want to hurt some real bad, i would advise you to consult your local lawyer because a firearm is always a deadly weapon, regardless of your intent. in fact, if you use a firearm to resolve a situation and the target survives and you were only using birdshot to scare him off, he might be able to sue you for his injuries, and a good enough lawyer might argue that you were clearly in not enough danger to try and kill him, but instead sought to cruelly injure him, tortuously, with intent to cause pain and suffering.
will these tiny pellets actually penetrate clothing like leather jackets and still cause enough damage to the target to put it down?
short answer: depends on you, your target, and the distance you shoot them at. generally it can penetrate flesh and cause injury, serious injury if in the face or at the neck or groin. it has trouble with clothing and non vitals areas, and has difficulty injuring to your average human as far away as a dozen meters.
 
I might be going turkey hunting with my Dad in the spring, and I am thinking of buying a shotgun instead of a revolver now.

After all, turkey hunting is traditionally done with a 12 Gauge shotgun. I'm wondering what models would be practical and affordable, and what kind of shells I should use for hunting.

I've never handled a shotgun, so I am wondering what to expect.
 
regarding shotgun ammo: how does birdshot compare to buckshot when it comes to stopping power? will these tiny pellets actually penetrate clothing like leather jackets and still cause enough damage to the target to put it down?

Paul Harrell is a great resource for this stuff.


I might be going turkey hunting with my Dad in the spring, and I am thinking of buying a shotgun instead of a revolver now.

After all, turkey hunting is traditionally done with a 12 Gauge shotgun. I'm wondering what models would be practical and affordable, and what kind of shells I should use for hunting.

I've never handled a shotgun, so I am wondering what to expect.

Can't go wrong with the classic Remington 870 or Mossberg 500. Get a proper stocked version as opposed to some gay pistol grip bullshit. I don't know what sort of ranges you're going to be doing the turkey hunting but for a decently large bird like that you probably want a decently tight choke to keep the pattern tight at 50+ meters and something fairly hearty like #4 buckshot. Aim for the head and neck to keep the meat more or less clean.
 
Last edited:
Birdshot is essentially useless against even fairly thin clothing, the individual pellets are not heavy enough or moving fast enough to penetrate and while the shot will be painful, it will not actually cause any long-term damage aside from dispersed blunt force trauma to anything you hit.
now im confused
you say it's bad but the guy in the video says it's fine if you pick powerful enough ammo, he even blows through a wall with it
 
now im confused
you say it's bad but the guy in the video says it's fine if you pick powerful enough ammo, he even blows through a wall with it

Sorry, edited to not cause confusion.

It's all very very dependent on the ranges you expect to be shooting at. As Paul shows in the video, at VERY short ranges and with a powerful load, it can be effective. Birdshot loses power very quickly due to the already slow speed and light relative weight of each pellet.
 
regarding shotgun ammo: how does birdshot compare to buckshot when it comes to stopping power? will these tiny pellets actually penetrate clothing like leather jackets and still cause enough damage to the target to put it down?
The girl on the left in this vid takes a load of birdshot to the chest. That should answer your question.
 
So I'm still hunting thinking on the good rifle/shot gun gift.

But GOOD NEWS GENTLEMAN (you read this in futurerama's prof voice) my 223 can came in!

I have a few questions I'm meering over, any brakes that work fine with and with out a can? I right now have put a supressor adaptor on my LaRue (only good AR) and moved it's BC to my beater. I would like something shooting good with can on off if possible.

Who makes good subsonic?

Any loads for it as I press 223 at home?

For the can : https://xtremegunsandammo.com/shop/...presors/freedom-armory-dragoon-qd-5-56-black/
I paid a good chunk less as friend works for them and I've shot this can since prototype era.
 
any brakes that work fine with and with out a can?
muzzle devices that are compatible with suppressors are generally manufacturer-specific. four- or three-prong "phantom" style flash hiders and similarly designed brakes like the SureFire brakes tend to work very well in general.

Who makes good subsonic?
No one makes subsonic 5.56x45mm NATO that delivers performance like a normal rifle round. the SS109 (and the predecessor 55gr M193 fragmenting ball) derives most of its performance from velocity for penetration and fragmentation.

Atomic Ammo's Subsonic .223 Remington (a 77gr JHP on top of 1.5gr of Bullseye, IIRC) is quieter than some .22LR, however, is meant for manual action firearms and is readily available for order from most places online. Atomic also makes a 5.56 load with a 112gr JSP bullet traveling about 1050 fps; but i wouldn't call it subsonic unless you have a 16" or less barrel with a can on the end. it performs similar to a very hot 9mm in terms of penetration, but tumbles far more readily.

Any loads for it as I press 223 at home?
heavy loads of 69gr or more that are about 1000 fps will not cycle the action of an automatic, but will be very quiet. if you already have a 55gr mold, try 1.8gr of Bullseye with a gas check on a tumbled hard cast lead bullet. should net around 900ish. if jacketed or something, adjust as needed. note that this will not cycle an AR-15 either, but it'll be subsonic and depending on environment and can design, extremely quiet.
 
Last edited:
So I'm still hunting thinking on the good rifle/shot gun gift.

But GOOD NEWS GENTLEMAN (you read this in futurerama's prof voice) my 223 can came in!

I have a few questions I'm meering over, any brakes that work fine with and with out a can? I right now have put a supressor adaptor on my LaRue (only good AR) and moved it's BC to my beater. I would like something shooting good with can on off if possible.

Who makes good subsonic?

Any loads for it as I press 223 at home?

For the can : https://xtremegunsandammo.com/shop/...presors/freedom-armory-dragoon-qd-5-56-black/
I paid a good chunk less as friend works for them and I've shot this can since prototype era.

If you bought a .223 can in an effort to make an actually really quiet gun, I think you wasted your money.

Subsonic 5.56 is, afaik, right on the edge of being able to cycle the gun reliably, not to mention piddly and weak.

There's a reason .300BLK exists, as much of a meme as that round is.

As far as the brake - I think you need a can-specific flash hider that the suppressor can interface with.
 
I'm getting a Cobary M11 carbine soon, i know these things are shitty but can be improved apon. Where can i source parts for such a creation?
תודה.
 
Back
Top Bottom