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Really? I was thinking of sticking one on a Lantac 22lr AR to make some kind of space gat monstrosity, but most reports have said that they're airsoft-grade crap.
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Really? I was thinking of sticking one on a Lantac 22lr AR to make some kind of space gat monstrosity, but most reports have said that they're airsoft-grade crap.
- Joined
- Feb 10, 2017
Due to recent events, I've been considering getting either a Mini-14 or a WASR. Anyone here have experience with either?
- Joined
- Sep 29, 2016
I have two Mini 14s. One in 556 and the other in 300 blackout. Never had an issue with either, both shoot as well as any AR Ive ever fired and are a little more rugged in my experience
- Joined
- Mar 24, 2013
Mine has been great. I've got a Magpul AFG on my LMT MWS308 and I've owned several other foregrips made from polymers and aluminum and the Hera unit feels every bit as quality and durable as any other poly FG. Admittedly, it is a bit "gimmicky", but I love the way it looks and feels on the AUG, and I love how it has a sling swivel socket mounted on the front. It moves the front strap of the sling down a bit, which is really helpful because it's normally mounted top-front of the reveiver/rail system and gets in the way of working the charging handle.
- Joined
- Mar 9, 2015
- Joined
- Jan 15, 2018
The only real downside I've found to the Mini-14 is Ruger's dogged insistence on a proprietary mag. The 14 could have been a market contender with the AR if they made a STANAG-compatible model. Used to have one with a ghost ring set up for javelina hunting, and it was perfectly reliable in desert dust. Supposedly the accuracy goes to shit after the barrel gets hot but I was never squeezing off more than two or three at a time.
- Joined
- Mar 9, 2015
They are ok, the mini 30 is a lolcow of a weapon but the 14 has two gens one a thicker barrel doesn't suffer as much and a company makes a strut. 100% the mag issue cucks the rifle. It's not a bad gun tho.
Now from Rugers POV and safety legally that's the whole point of the mini 14. You can sell to "ban" states and not slide a evil hi cap assault clip into it. So I kinda get that also , I've talked to pro smiths to put them to STANAG it's machine work. At that point get something else.
- Joined
- Jan 15, 2018
With as mechanically similar as the Mini 14 is to the Garand, I'm almost surprised they haven't come out with an en-bloc version. At least that would have something unusual going for it, other than being The Virgin Ruger vs. the Chad Armalite.
- Joined
- Mar 24, 2013
Probably because the Mini-14 is more directly related to the USGI M14 than the M1 Garand. Hence why it's called the "Mini-14". Granted, the M14 is essentially a product improved Garand, but there are some major differences.
I've never been the biggest Mini-14 fan. You'd think I would be since the M14 is one of my favorite weapons, but I've always felt the Mini-14 was a cheap weapon and more of a Fudd gun. If I want a self-loading rifle I want it to be a pure fighting rifle, and the Mini-14 always felt like it was a compromise between "scary assault guns" and Grand Pappy's deer rifle. But that's just this man's opinion.
- Joined
- Jan 15, 2018
Well the M14 versus the Mini-14 is something like the difference between a single-cylinder trail bike and a 1000cc racing bike. They might both be fine for their intended purpose but one is a much more finely tuned and high performing rifle (the M14 firing a full-powered round, to boot).
- Joined
- Jun 25, 2013
Sounds good, I've been toying with the idea of getting an evil black rifle or building one from ground up. If I build an AR I'll probably go HBAR 20" in some capacity, a guy I talk to on another forum says 20" ARs are like shooting in a video game, almost. I still prefer wood and steel but all this ban talk is making me reconsider building a backup piece of sorts. Would probably be great rocking a spare scope I own, LOL. If I go railed handguard that grip will be a must, unless I can get a 40mm grenade launcher instead (good luck with that ha)
I still have a few projects to get outta the way but it's a thought that occurred to me. I kinda like the A1 and A2 variants, retro enough for my tastes at least.
- Joined
- Mar 24, 2013
You can get a 40mm launcher legally if you live in the US (and don't live in some draconian shit hole like California). Lewis Machine and Tool makes arguably the best M203 on the market. You'll be looking at about $2000-$2500 plus $200 for the tax stamp and going through the NFA process. It's the same as if you were to buy a sound suppressor, short barreled rifle, or civilian transferable full-auto. Getting live explosive grenades for it is a different matter. You have to do the $200 and NFA process on every live explosive round, plus send documentation to the ATF every time you detonate one. It's a huge pain in the was. I guess if the fecal matter ever impacted the oscillating blades it could be handy in the event you ever came across some grenades in an abandoned military vehicle or something, but for recreational use you're pretty much limited to flares, practice chalk rounds, beehive rounds (basically a device that allows you to fire a bunch of .22lr rounds at one time like a shotgun), and buckshot.
- Joined
- Jan 3, 2017
Went to a local gun show today, wasn't intending to buy anything but shit happens.
- Joined
- Jan 2, 2017
Talked with @Club Sandwich a while back and finally narrowed down my handgun choices. At the time I couldn't settle on anything but I'm starting to come closer to a decision. Also decided to consider some double-stacks too since I've been starting to warm up to them. Here's what I'm looking at now:
1. Star Model BM- Super-cheap right now and very well-built. Kinda on the small side but I really like compacts. Only problem is that parts aren't easy to find.
2. Tristar T100- CZs feel nice to me. This one seems really great for the money, especially since it's a Jericho clone, but I don't know much about Turkish guns.
3. Beretta Px4 Storm- I've heard nothing but good things. They even seem to score good reviews with collectors, but I haven't shot one yet to know.
4. Beretta 92S- Some of my extended family are getting a few. They're all-steel and handle great from my experience, but the mag release is a little weird.
Any extra advice would be great. Picking one's gonna be tricky.
1. Star Model BM- Super-cheap right now and very well-built. Kinda on the small side but I really like compacts. Only problem is that parts aren't easy to find.
2. Tristar T100- CZs feel nice to me. This one seems really great for the money, especially since it's a Jericho clone, but I don't know much about Turkish guns.
3. Beretta Px4 Storm- I've heard nothing but good things. They even seem to score good reviews with collectors, but I haven't shot one yet to know.
4. Beretta 92S- Some of my extended family are getting a few. They're all-steel and handle great from my experience, but the mag release is a little weird.
Any extra advice would be great. Picking one's gonna be tricky.
- Joined
- Jun 9, 2016
Turkey has a long history with manufacturing firearms, like Spain, and are generally inexpensive due to lax labor laws and cheap cost of living. the products themselves are generally good products. Tristar is an importer from several different factories in Turkey. the T100 isn't "NATO approved", but merely, on paper, ticks all the NATO requirements for a service pistol.
the Px4 is somewhat of an offshoot of the older Cougar pistols, and are surprisingly soft shooting due to the rotating barrel lock vs the tilting barrel Browning pattern. otherwise you can expect Beretta quality, which is often pretty good. Stoeger imports the newer Cougar models made on Beretta tooling from the Turkish facilities under their own label (Stoegar is owned by Beretta). same gun, less expensive to make.
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- Joined
- Jan 2, 2017
Are parts as readily available as other models? I've heard that not all Tristar or Carnik handguns are compatible with CZ parts.
I'd heard the two were related in the past. I take it Stoegers are pretty decent too?
- Joined
- Feb 1, 2015
Maybe someone here can help me figure this out.
I bought some surplus ammo, and the brass on most of the rounds has patches of green verdigris on the casing and jacket. While it is fairly straightforward to remove the verdigris with appropriate cleaning materials and a washcloth, it will be very tedious to do the cleaning process on every round individually, so I am wondering if it is safe to shoot as is. Aside from the verdigris, everything else about the ammo looks fine to me. No rust, no corrosion, all surfaces still shiny, just here and there these splotches of verdigris, like the tarnishing on any brass or copper surface that has been exposed to the air for some time.
I can't find anything about verdigris'ed ammo on the internet, but I did find some concerning passages in historical firearms literature. Apparently American cavalry troopers in the Indian Wars found their brass ammo developing verdigris in the field due to the humid climate and acidic leather dyes in their webbing gear, and alarmingly their revolvers and rifles had trouble extracting these verdigris'ed rounds after firing. The books are not clear exactly what the problem is, just a vague reference to the verdigris "fusing" the rounds to the chamber so the extractors were ineffective and having to manually pop out empty casings with a cleaning rod.
I bought some surplus ammo, and the brass on most of the rounds has patches of green verdigris on the casing and jacket. While it is fairly straightforward to remove the verdigris with appropriate cleaning materials and a washcloth, it will be very tedious to do the cleaning process on every round individually, so I am wondering if it is safe to shoot as is. Aside from the verdigris, everything else about the ammo looks fine to me. No rust, no corrosion, all surfaces still shiny, just here and there these splotches of verdigris, like the tarnishing on any brass or copper surface that has been exposed to the air for some time.
I can't find anything about verdigris'ed ammo on the internet, but I did find some concerning passages in historical firearms literature. Apparently American cavalry troopers in the Indian Wars found their brass ammo developing verdigris in the field due to the humid climate and acidic leather dyes in their webbing gear, and alarmingly their revolvers and rifles had trouble extracting these verdigris'ed rounds after firing. The books are not clear exactly what the problem is, just a vague reference to the verdigris "fusing" the rounds to the chamber so the extractors were ineffective and having to manually pop out empty casings with a cleaning rod.
- Joined
- Aug 5, 2017
It's probably okay to fire once, but you might want to run the cartridges through a tumbler and see how much damage has been done before you reload them. The green is verdigris, which implies that some copper has been leached out of the brass. In the worst case, this could reduce the brass's ductility, but if it's just patches then there's likely no issue.
- Joined
- Jan 2, 2017
Can't you also clean them up with brass wool and brass cleaner? I've heard that's also a safe bet.
- Joined
- Aug 5, 2017
I advise against using brass cleaner on any brass you want to reload.