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Ya know I think our postal system might just be broken...
(new walnut Charging Rhino grip for my 30DS that originally came with the small black rubber one)
EDIT: NGL before seeing the note I stared at that washer for a solid four seconds wondering why this special Chiappa tool they included was needed to change the grip.
surprisingly not as much as you'd expect. you can get a very lightly used fully custom bolt gun for 2k-4k. I'm talking fancy wood, hand cut checkering, high quality bluing, maybe some engraving all basically hand built. since people that could afford these guns knew to take care of them they are almost always in top condition even if they're 100 years old. R.F Sedgley, Weber & Markin, Paul Jaeger, Griffin & Howe and a slew of other names are all out there. these guns are so undervalued in the market today.
Consequently, effective
October 9, 2026, ATF will no longer require individuals to seek ATF approval under the NFA
before making or transferring short-barreled rifles, short-barreled shotguns, silencers, and “any
other weapon” as defined in 26 U.S.C. § 5845(e
For those worried about state laws, the ATF says that they will still register these items if desired:
ATF will continue to administer the NFA on a voluntary basis. ATF will accept Form 1 applications to make or register these firearms and devices by those making such items. ATF will also accept Form 3 or Form 4 applications to transfer or register such items.
Hello, I recently purchased an old Mauser 98. Got it online from a private listing and had it shipped, the listing said "Mauser k98" (technically "k98" was incorrect for that model) but it otherwise looked accurate from the pictures.
When I picked it up from the dealer, the gun had Cyrillic writing on it, which caused me to do some research and realize that, while it was technically a Mauser 98, it was a Yugoslavian Model 1924 variant. Further inspection revealed that the bolt and the floor plate had been replaced at some point, as the serial numbers there differed. It also had a small barrel mark showing that it was imported by Navy Arms at some point, explaining why a German-Yugo gun wound up in the U.S.
I included all the context above, because the seller clearly didn't know what he had, and didn't include any stripper clips so he might not have used it much.
My question is, how do I verify if it's safe to shoot? I have other guns but those were purchased new, this is my first antique model and given the age + replacement parts, I am slightly wary that it could blow up in my face.
This is the second most important court decision this week after "Stuttering" John Melendez had his case dismissed and was ordered to pay attorney's fees to Shuli Egar and Clubfoot Carl.
Hello, I recently purchased an old Mauser 98. Got it online from a private listing and had it shipped, the listing said "Mauser k98" (technically "k98" was incorrect for that model) but it otherwise looked accurate from the pictures.
When I picked it up from the dealer, the gun had Cyrillic writing on it, which caused me to do some research and realize that, while it was technically a Mauser 98, it was a Yugoslavian Model 1924 variant. Further inspection revealed that the bolt and the floor plate had been replaced at some point, as the serial numbers there differed. It also had a small barrel mark showing that it was imported by Navy Arms at some point, explaining why a German-Yugo gun wound up in the U.S.
My question is, how do I verify if it's safe to shoot? I have other guns but those were purchased new, this is my first antique model and given the age + replacement parts, I am slightly wary that it could blow up in my face.
I included all the context above, because the seller clearly didn't know what he had and I have no idea when it was last used.
Hello, I recently purchased an old Mauser 98. Got it online from a private listing and had it shipped, the listing said "Mauser k98" (technically "k98" was incorrect for that model) but it otherwise looked accurate from the pictures.
When I picked it up from the dealer, the gun had Cyrillic writing on it, which caused me to do some research and realize that, while it was technically a Mauser 98, it was a Yugoslavian Model 1924 variant. Further inspection revealed that the bolt and the floor plate had been replaced at some point, as the serial numbers there differed. It also had a small barrel mark showing that it was imported by Navy Arms at some point, explaining why a German-Yugo gun wound up in the U.S.
My question is, how do I verify if it's safe to shoot? I have other guns but those were purchased new, this is my first antique model and given the age + replacement parts, I am slightly wary that it could blow up in my face.
I included all the context above, because the seller clearly didn't know what he had and I have no idea when it was last used.
You can take it to a gunsmith, they should be able to tell you if the headspacing is good. Or just buy a set of gauges. If the headspacing is good then it's good to shoot.
