Mega Rad Gun Thread

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I really wanted one of those FKs as well, but they're several thousand dollars and it uses boutique ammunition unique to it and it alone. Maybe if they were $2000- $2500, but when they cost as much or more than an Ohio Ordnance HCAR I just can't feature spending that kind of scratch on them. Let us know how you like yours.
the MSRP for the FK is $7500 for the pistol which includes two grips, two sights, a case, and an accessory kit. HCAR's are about $4k. the original MSRP was $2.5k back several years, but they kept upping it until by the time importers and distributors got some, they were close to $3-4k each.

$300 for additional (different) grips, $150-$250 varying other options, and $100 per 50-round box of 7.5mm BRNO.

i collect many such firearms, so i don't mind any of that. punching holes in 1/4" steel plate at 100 meters with copper solids and having over 1200fps velocity 400 meters on the other side is a bit impressive. it's a bit between a .41 Magnum and a .44 Magnum in energy, but in an automatic with 16 rounds on tap.

when i get the options i want (Nills grips mostly, and some nice peacock blue on small parts with a high polish blue on the rest), i'll be sure to post back how it is. 7.5mm BRNO should be able to use .308 projectiles or perhaps 7.5 Swiss, so i anticipate trying to reload for it.
 
the MSRP for the FK is $7500 for the pistol which includes two grips, two sights, a case, and an accessory kit. HCAR's are about $4k. the original MSRP was $2.5k back several years, but they kept upping it until by the time importers and distributors got some, they were close to $3-4k each.

$300 for additional (different) grips, $150-$250 varying other options, and $100 per 50-round box of 7.5mm BRNO.

i collect many such firearms, so i don't mind any of that. punching holes in 1/4" steel plate at 100 meters with copper solids and having over 1200fps velocity 400 meters on the other side is a bit impressive. it's a bit between a .41 Magnum and a .44 Magnum in energy, but in an automatic with 16 rounds on tap.

when i get the options i want (Nills grips mostly, and some nice peacock blue on small parts with a high polish blue on the rest), i'll be sure to post back how it is. 7.5mm BRNO should be able to use .308 projectiles or perhaps 7.5 Swiss, so i anticipate trying to reload for it.

Jeebus. Last I heard they were going to come in at about $5000. That's just too rich for this man's blood. They're awesome weapons and beautifully crafted, but regretfully I just don't have that kind of scratch to drop on a pistol, or any one weapon for that matter. I hope it turns out well for you. I'd be lying if I said I wasn't a little envious.
 
I recently had the chance to examine and handle the Colt reproductions of the 1861 Army and one of the later Dragoon models. Functionally it doesn't really look like they have much to offer over the much cheaper and more popular Italian reproduction lines, but damn that Colt engraving on the cylinder is a work of art. Not sure it's worth the 600 plus dollar price tag though, and I'm not a fan of the blueing job they did on the Dragoon, but the Army looks about right. While I really like the look and feel of the classic Colt revolvers (not the Dragoon/horse pistols though, they are just too much steel for me to handle), cap and ball guns look like a bit too much work; cartridge conversions look like more fun. Maybe some day I'll look into a brass framed 1851 Navy cartridge conversion.
 
My personal gun-collecting "holy grail" that I am unlikely to ever find is a Boer contract Mauser 1893/1895 long rifle or carbine with decorative Boer carvings on the stock. There aren't many of them left because most of the Boers intentionally destroyed their rifles before surrendering or otherwise abused their rifles to the point of destruction while fighting in the field, and those that remained in Boer hands after the war became prized family heirlooms that were unlikely to turn up for sale on the international market. The Boer rifles that made it to Britain, Canada, Australia, and New Zealand as captured bring-backs are really the only ones left in circulation and their numbers were severely diminished due to government mandated confiscation and destruction of privately owned firearms in Australia in particular. It's pretty hard to find one in any condition, and in America, I think they are almost unheard of except among top tier collectors.

Here you can occasionally find good condition Boer contract Mausers that were resold to the Chileans before leaving the factory warehouse and never saw service with the Boers, but the only difference between these rifles and your dime-a-dozen Chilean surplus Mauser is the serial number range and tiny variations in the receiver markings and one little reinforcing bit of metal behind the bolt. They go for hundreds of dollars more than a regular Chilean Mauser, and to me it's not really worth the difference in serial number and markings. They were made at the same factories as the Chilean rifles, rode in the same ships to Chile as the Chilean rifles, and sat unissued in the same Chilean warehouses as the Chilean rifles. For the greatly added price, you're not getting that much more history out of those rifles.

But the carved rifles that saw service in Africa are really something else. They have an added touch of personalization about them that really seizes my imagination. The Boer carvings vary in quality, from crudely scratched text of names/addresses/unit affiliation and amateur floral decorations, all the way up to intricately embellished bas relief carvings of national insignia, portraits, and battle honors that can be a real piece of craftsmanship and artwork. Examples of some:

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The ones with the ZAR national insignia have a pretty nice aesthetic about them, so I decided to decorate my own Chilean Mauser 1895 mosqueton with one in the form of a homemade leather cheek pad. I tried to dye the leather as close as I could to match the color of the wood, and I based the coat of arms design on the ZAR coins that many of the Boers would have used as a model for their own carvings. It is still something of a work in progress, as I don't know too much about leather working.

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I think with the exception of the sliding tangent sight, it can now pass for a bottom-rung facsimile of a proper Boer Mauser from a distance.
 
Any Kiwis who live in Missouri/surrounding states, I'm looking for a gun range that has a nice selection of guns to rent and is friendly to people from liberal gloryholes beginners.
Any recommendations I should look into?
 
Any Kiwis who live in Missouri/surrounding states, I'm looking for a gun range that has a nice selection of guns to rent and is friendly to people from liberal gloryholes beginners.
Any recommendations I should look into?

I used to live in Kansas City, and my dad took me to a range called Parma Woods out there. They got me started on a .22 single shot bolt action, but that was for a class they had. I dunno if they rent firearms though.

I did take to rifles like a duck to water because of that trip, though.
 
So after a ton of research and snooping around on a fuckton of forums, I finally bought a James River BM-59 off Classic Firearms, and it should be coming in in a few weeks' time. I'm pretty happy with my purchase, but there's only one thing bugging me: ammo. While I'm likely going to wind up buying milsurp 7.62x51mm for it, would it be fine to run it with commercial .308 loads? Probably going to avoid soft-tip ammo if I end up using them.

Will send pics of the rifle when it comes in.
 
Would it be fine to run it with commercial .308 loads?
any 7.62 NATO ammunition should work fine - M80 Ball compatible. for commercial ammunition, try to to avoid heavier ammunition - 150gr should be the upper limit and 126gr the lower limit.

commercial .308 winchester should be functional if the load duplicates M80 Ball (147gr bullet at 2700 feet per second).
 
any 7.62 NATO ammunition should work fine - M80 Ball compatible. for commercial ammunition, try to to avoid heavier ammunition - 150gr should be the upper limit and 126gr the lower limit.

commercial .308 winchester should be functional if the load duplicates M80 Ball (147gr bullet at 2700 feet per second).

Finally got the rifle in a week ago and I've gotta say, it's an absolute beauty. Reliability, though, has been a challenge. I went with Lake City ammo and some MEN German 147g ball; first five rounds were flawless, but the majority of them would either have ripped cases or would get stuck in the barrel. Not sure if it's a gas issue or a a problem with the extractor, perhaps?

Will probably give it a good cleaning before I take it out to the range again, and if it keeps up, I may send it back to James River to get it fixed.
 

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I used to live in Kansas City, and my dad took me to a range called Parma Woods out there. They got me started on a .22 single shot bolt action, but that was for a class they had. I dunno if they rent firearms though.

I did take to rifles like a duck to water because of that trip, though.
Small update. On the trip I found two places I really enjoyed. The first one was Wiltshire Gun in Oklahoma City (https://wilshiregun.com/). It was clean and modern with extremely friendly staff. I'd go back there if I was in the area and try more of their rentals.
A few days later I found this place closer to the lakehouse I was staying at: Pistols Plus in Osage Beach(http://www.pistolsplusguns.net/). While it was limited to pistols and revolvers, the range was adequate and gave off the vibe that you were shooting at a range in your wealthy friend's mansion.
Gun in question is a Sig Sauer P238. On a scale of 1 to Noob, how good was I for a beginner?
 
Finally got the rifle in a week ago and I've gotta say, it's an absolute beauty. Reliability, though, has been a challenge. I went with Lake City ammo and some MEN German 147g ball; first five rounds were flawless, but the majority of them would either have ripped cases or would get stuck in the barrel. Not sure if it's a gas issue or a a problem with the extractor, perhaps?

Will probably give it a good cleaning before I take it out to the range again, and if it keeps up, I may send it back to James River to get it fixed.
you've got cratering of the primer and tearing of the rim - too much gas in the system. either those are loaded hot, you were shooting on a very hot day, you have some sort of chamber/bore obstruction increasing gas pressure, or you have some sort of issue with the gas port being too large. best to check the bore and gas cylinder area for weirdness though. field strip the rifle and look at the chamber and bore and gas port for any signs of oddity: finish missing, burning, excessive carbon build up, perhaps debris, et c. clean it real good with a carbon scrubbing solvent of choice (Ballistol is handy).

if you are shooting M80 spec ammunition, then there's likely an issue with the gas port being too large.

the gas port for the barrel should be 0.096" (brand new 24" .30 barrel that will break in with lighter loads) to 0.099" in diameter or real close to that (0.105" isn't unheard of for match barrels). you can check with a #41 drill bit (0.096") which should either barely fit, or falls in. if the drill bit falls into the hole, try a #39 drill bit (0.0995") which should barely fit or not fit.

if it still falls in and you don't have an especially short barrel or something else going on, then the port is too large and needs to be fixed by JRA.
 
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you've got cratering of the primer and tearing of the rim - too much gas in the system. either those are loaded hot, you were shooting on a very hot day, you have some sort of chamber/bore obstruction increasing gas pressure, or you have some sort of issue with the gas port being too large. best to check the bore and gas cylinder area for weirdness though. field strip the rifle and look at the chamber and bore and gas port for any signs of oddity: finish missing, burning, excessive carbon build up, perhaps debris, et c. clean it real good with a carbon scrubbing solvent of choice (Ballistol is handy).

if you are shooting M80 spec ammunition, then there's likely an issue with the gas port being too large.

the gas port for the barrel should be 0.096" (brand new 24" .30 barrel that will break in with lighter loads) to 0.099" in diameter or real close to that (0.105" isn't unheard of for match barrels). you can check with a #41 drill bit (0.096") which should either barely fit, or falls in. if the drill bit falls into the hole, try a #39 drill bit (0.0995") which should barely fit or not fit.

if it still falls in and you don't have an especially short barrel or something else going on, then the port is too large and needs to be fixed by JRA.

Wouldn't be surprised about the gas port as it's supposed to be very small in diameter (smaller than the M1A and Garand), and apparently any sort of tampering will cut off the gas entirely.

It's also worth noting that this barrel's about 19 inches long by default, but I believe the tri-compensator (7" version) should even that out somewhat.
 
Wouldn't be surprised about the gas port as it's supposed to be very small in diameter (smaller than the M1A and Garand), and apparently any sort of tampering will cut off the gas entirely.

It's also worth noting that this barrel's about 19 inches long by default, but I believe the tri-compensator (7" version) should even that out somewhat.
well, all things being equal, the larger the gas port, the lower the pressure at the gas port and the larger the volume of gas that escapes the barrel through the port in a given time interval. while the system is pressurized, those hot gasses must have just enough pressure to drive the action to unlock, extract, eject, and cock the weapon while the pressure in the chamber is low enough to safely do so.

if the correct amount of gas reaches the action too quickly (before pressure in the chamber is lowered to a safe level), the action might try to unlock and extract early, leading to case rim tear, failure to extract (where the extractor slips off the case rim), and increased wear on locking surfaces.

if too much gas reaches the action (where you have the gas system pressurized too long, the work needed to be performed is not enough to use all the power from the expanding gas, an excessive amount of gas in the system), then you will see evidence of cratering on the primer as the hot gasses "flow" around the material of the firing pin / striker and partially into the firing pin channel. you will also feel excessive recoil, encounter increased wear on locking surfaces, damage to pistons, springs, bolts, carriers, et c. you will also have similar problems mentioned with the action opening too quickly: torn case rims, head separation, early unlocking, failure to extract, et c.

a combination of both issues usually means that the gas port is physically too large or is misplaced - large enough to allow too much gas, or is placed too close too close to the chamber, which keeps the system pressurized longer than it should be.

your primers show evidence of flow, and the case rim tears are indicative of a gas pressure problem. you also indicate that the first half dozen shots were fine. this would suggest that either there is a problem where the gas port or gas cylinder's size has increased (somehow), or you have something that is messing with the pressure that the system expects (debris, very hot ammunition, parts not assembled properly).

given that a drilling fixture is often used for these sorts of rifles i would put money on the gas port being oversized. a wobbly drill bit, a crooked fixture, et c can do this.
 
well, all things being equal, the larger the gas port, the lower the pressure at the gas port and the larger the volume of gas that escapes the barrel through the port in a given time interval. while the system is pressurized, those hot gasses must have just enough pressure to drive the action to unlock, extract, eject, and cock the weapon while the pressure in the chamber is low enough to safely do so.

if the correct amount of gas reaches the action too quickly (before pressure in the chamber is lowered to a safe level), the action might try to unlock and extract early, leading to case rim tear, failure to extract (where the extractor slips off the case rim), and increased wear on locking surfaces.

if too much gas reaches the action (where you have the gas system pressurized too long, the work needed to be performed is not enough to use all the power from the expanding gas, an excessive amount of gas in the system), then you will see evidence of cratering on the primer as the hot gasses "flow" around the material of the firing pin / striker and partially into the firing pin channel. you will also feel excessive recoil, encounter increased wear on locking surfaces, damage to pistons, springs, bolts, carriers, et c. you will also have similar problems mentioned with the action opening too quickly: torn case rims, head separation, early unlocking, failure to extract, et c.

a combination of both issues usually means that the gas port is physically too large or is misplaced - large enough to allow too much gas, or is placed too close too close to the chamber, which keeps the system pressurized longer than it should be.

your primers show evidence of flow, and the case rim tears are indicative of a gas pressure problem. you also indicate that the first half dozen shots were fine. this would suggest that either there is a problem where the gas port or gas cylinder's size has increased (somehow), or you have something that is messing with the pressure that the system expects (debris, very hot ammunition, parts not assembled properly).

given that a drilling fixture is often used for these sorts of rifles i would put money on the gas port being oversized. a wobbly drill bit, a crooked fixture, et c can do this.

More than likely, yeah. I'm getting it sent in today to get it fixed. Should be back in in a few weeks, but I won't be able to check for a while due to college.
 
What are some of the most overrated guns in your guys' opinions? I believe that the Beretta 92, in most (if not all) of it's variations, is fairly overrated.
 
What are some of the most overrated guns in your guys' opinions? I believe that the Beretta 92, in most (if not all) of it's variations, is fairly overrated.
i find there's fanboys for everything. as far as a firearm being "overrated" as in made into something it is not based on speculation, anecdotes, or opinion; i would say either the Desert Eagle Mk VII or Mk XIX (specifically the .50AE variation which is quite obnoxious both for the people who spout off about it ignorantly as well as just being annoying to actually use) or the AKM (which is indestructible and will never jam and kills in a single hit even if you miss and singlehandedly saves the universe). a close third might be people that are really in the Springfield XD (because changing some letters and charging $200 extra rubs me wrong).

i have so many gripes about firearms and people on all sides of the issue i could write a long boring book about it.
 
Finally have been able to start getting optics for my rifles. I ordered an Elcan Spectre TR this week and it arrived today. Oh man, is it sweet! It will be mounted on my Mk14 Mod 0, but I still need to order the optics mount from SAGE Industries that's required for the EBR chassis, so I mounted it on my MWS308 for now just to get a feel for it. My only minor gripe is that I couldn't get the reticle illumination in green instead of red.

It has three levels of magnification: 1x, 3x, and 9x. At 1x it projects a red dot and the reticle isn't very visible. At 3x it's similar to the ACOG and the reticle is visible and fully illuminated. At 9x it's almost like a sniper scope. The magnification is changed by a knob on the left side of the scope tube and there is no magnification between the three levels, so switching between the different levels is very quick and smooth.

It looks like photo uploads aren't working right now, so I'll post pics later.
 
Thank God my BM-59's been shipped back. Took them a while but according to the rep from James River I talked to, sounds like all it needed was some chamber polishing. I'm out-of-state currently but when I get back, I'm going to give it a test fire and see if it did the trick.
 
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I've been searching everywhere for a Vetterli Vitali model 1870/87, still can't bloody find one.
 
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