Mega Rad Gun Thread

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Are stripper clips/chargers for the more common rifle cartridges (like .30-06, 7.62 NATO, 7 and 8 mm Mauser etc) interchangeable in a pinch? In other words, would I be able to use any old .30-06 or 7.62 NATO clip for my 7x57 Mauser rounds? The ones specifically made for 7mm Mauser are way more expensive, and it looks like it could be a close fit with some bending here and there.
 
LazarusOwenhart said:
I live in England and I have guns. The Constables come to my house and check that I have a secure place to store them and a sensible place to use them before I'm allowed to own them. They also won't allow me to own anything I could potentially use to take over a small island. This is a concept known as 'gun control' which you yanks appear to be perturbed by.
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That's because you're a serf who has to ask permission to own firearms, whereas we're free in the US and owning firearms was a large part of why we declared independence and kicked your limey asses out. Most of the gun control that gets proposed wouldn't do any good anyways. The Left wants to ban military styled semi-auto rifles which, according to studies done by the FBI and Centers for Disease Control account for less than 3% of all firearms related deaths (homicide, suicide, accidental deaths, and justifiable shootings). So banning them would have negligible impact on firearms death rates. Most homicides involving firearms are carried out with cheap handguns and are often black-on-black shootings. They tried banning these types of pistols, but it was argued that it was "racist" to try since these types of cheap handguns are all many Americans of color can afford, and it would be unconstitutional to limit their ability to defend themselves and their families.
 
millais said:
Are stripper clips/chargers for the more common rifle cartridges (like .30-06, 7.62 NATO, 7 and 8 mm Mauser etc) interchangeable in a pinch? In other words, would I be able to use any old .30-06 or 7.62 NATO clip for my 7x57 Mauser rounds? The ones specifically made for 7mm Mauser are way more expensive, and it looks like it could be a close fit with some bending here and there.
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there are three important measurements at work here: the inner width of the charging slot of your rifle's action vs the outer width of the charger in order to fit the charger in place, and lastly the inner width vs the outer diameter of the rim of your ammunition.

the 7mm and 8mm Mausers have different rims: 0.470" OD on the 7.92x57mm vs 0.476" OD for the 7.24x57mm. the 6.5x55mm Mauser charger can work with the 7.24x57mm Mauser ammunition ($20 for a pack on Amazon in very good condition), but may not work for your particular charging slot.
 
I picked myself up a Romanian SKS I saw at a local shop recently. A coworker picked up a Russian a while back (because of me, he says) and I got a 75 round drum magazine and trigger tune-up to lighten the pull and for a cleaner break. Might grab more magazines and considering my optic options (preferably without permanent modifications to the rifle).
 
Well my friends, I'd completely forgotten about this thread until I was talking with @Bassomatic last night during drunk movie night and I figure I'd post my newest purchase with this years tax returns.

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I've wanted a P90 for as long as I can remember, and I figured that this year is the year to go for it.
And let me just say that I am not the least bit disappointed with it, because it's the most fun I've had shooting a gun in a long time.

What you see is the stock Gen 3 PS90 and I put my Trijicon MRO onto it for the time being.
What -isnt- seen are the ten additional 50 round mags and all the parts that I ordered for this beauty.
Still waiting on the arrival of the low-profile mount, because the height of my optics on that rail with the integral iron sights is just sitting way too high over the bore, and keeping its windage due to how you 'adjust' the integral is also irritating

Case has been ordered as well and should be coming in over the next week as well.

In other news, I just got my batch of fingerprint cards in so that I can go get my prints taken and submit my forms to SBR and get a can for my PS90.

I've also got to decide on a sling for it, but that's neither here nor there.
 
JSGOTI said:
Well my friends, I'd completely forgotten about this thread until I was talking with @Bassomatic last night during drunk movie night and I figure I'd post my newest purchase with this years tax returns.

76HN5KM.jpg


I've wanted a P90 for as long as I can remember, and I figured that this year is the year to go for it.
And let me just say that I am not the least bit disappointed with it, because it's the most fun I've had shooting a gun in a long time.

What you see is the stock Gen 3 PS90 and I put my Trijicon MRO onto it for the time being.
What -isnt- seen are the ten additional 50 round mags and all the parts that I ordered for this beauty.
Still waiting on the arrival of the low-profile mount, because the height of my optics on that rail with the integral iron sights is just sitting way too high over the bore, and keeping its windage due to how you 'adjust' the integral is also irritating

Case has been ordered as well and should be coming in over the next week as well.

In other news, I just got my batch of fingerprint cards in so that I can go get my prints taken and submit my forms to SBR and get a can for my PS90.

I've also got to decide on a sling for it, but that's neither here nor there.
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Wow, sounds like quite the purchase. I hope it did not set you back too much.
 
millais said:
Wow, sounds like quite the purchase. I hope it did not set you back too much.
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$1095 for the ps90, shipped, w/ 3 50rd mags
Already had the soft case I'm using.
Already had the optics(~$500 for a second one if I really wanted)
And the rest of the parts, it just is what it is, to get it to what I wanted it to be.
 
They are repealing the gun ban here, so when I 21(old legislation was minimum 25 years and proving to the federal police that you require a gun(this is why it is a virtual ban, you won't get one in 90℅ of the cases due to that))
I could possibly own a gun.
Let me say that I envy you all and the amazing freedom you have in america, please always protect and defend this freedom, since most of world unfortunately doesn't have that freedom.
 
AN/ALR56 said:
They are repealing the gun ban here, so when I 21(old legislation was minimum 25 years and proving to the federal police that you require a gun(this is why it is a virtual ban, you won't get one in 90℅ of the cases due to that))
I could possibly own a gun.
Let me say that I envy you all and the amazing freedom you have in america, please always protect and defend this freedom, since most of world unfortunately doesn't have that freedom.
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I wonder what guns you can legally get in Brazil. While I was looking around for good deals on Chilean 1895 Mausers, I noticed that there are actually a reasonable amount of Brazilian 1894 Mauser cavalry carbines for sale in the US, but all are in very poor condition due to heavy use in the tropical climate for many years (poor bore and rifling condition, metal finish worn away, rust, deformed/discolored wood, etc). Only good for display and collectible value, no good for shooting. The more modern Brazilian Mausers from 1920s-40s are probably in better condition, but I prefer the look of the old straight stock grip on the pre-1898 Mausers
 
millais said:
I wonder what guns you can legally get in Brazil. While I was looking around for good deals on Chilean 1895 Mausers, I noticed that there are actually a reasonable amount of Brazilian 1894 Mauser cavalry carbines for sale in the US, but all are in very poor condition due to heavy use in the tropical climate for many years (poor bore and rifling condition, metal finish worn away, rust, deformed/discolored wood, etc). Only good for display and collectible value, no good for shooting. The more modern Brazilian Mausers from 1920s-40s are probably in better condition, but I prefer the look of the old straight stock grip on the pre-1898 Mausers
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Hmm I don't know about that.
Our local industry manufactured Mausers up until ww2 at least.
We did copy and fielded a gewerh 43 copy that was quickly replaced by the fal rifle.
It's far easier to find Brazilian guns in the exterior than inside due to those horrible gun bans.
This should be very interesting to you:

http://www.carbinesforcollectors.com/brazilpage.html
 
As promised, pics of my first Mausers (and my first milsurps for that matter)
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The innards are cosmoline-free, but there's still lots of tiny crumbs of dried cosmoline on the outside, and the stock seems to bleed cosmoline when I hold it in my hands for longer than a minute. The original blued finish has worn away to white in a very pretty way, and I love the way the weathering managed to preserve the Chilean national crest. The tangent site is alright, I would have preferred the classic flip-up ladder sight, but it seems at some point the Chileans converted most of the 1895 Short Rifles to tangent sights. Except for the floor plate and cleaning rod, all the other parts match.

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This one was kind of sloppily reblued by Bubba at some point, including components that were never blued in the original production configuration. I don't really mind the sporterization though (Bubba just chopped the barrel down to match the Short Rifle's length and tossed the handguard) since the full-length long rifle is too unwieldy and unbalanced for me, and the Mauser sight picture is already challenging enough without making the front sight another 7 inches further away from my face. Barely a trace of cosmoline on this rifle, only complaint is that the front sight ring/base is not tightly secured in place and can turn around when twisted with enough force, so I will have to find some way to fix that before it's ready for the range. Except for the stock, everything else on this one matches.
 
millais said:
The innards are cosmoline-free, but there's still lots of tiny crumbs of dried cosmoline on the outside, and the stock seems to bleed cosmoline when I hold it in my hands for longer than a minute.
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cosmoline liquefies at 140F typically so for small gun a baking tray and heat gun works well enough if you have a light touch. the darker it is, the more oxygen it has absorbed. removing cosmoline can be a chore, but the easiest way i've done it without any real tools is to disassemble the rifle completely and place the parts in two black plastic trash bags, then hang it in direct sunlight for a day or two. the cosmoline will seep and melt out of the gun, and can be easily cleaned off the metal with a brush and paper shop towels/cloths., then the wood will seep for another day or so (wipe clean) until no more cosmoline appears at the bottom of the bag. replace the bags after each day of sunshine.
 
Club Sandwich said:
cosmoline liquefies at 140F typically so for small gun a baking tray and heat gun works well enough if you have a light touch. the darker it is, the more oxygen it has absorbed. removing cosmoline can be a chore, but the easiest way i've done it without any real tools is to disassemble the rifle completely and place the parts in two black plastic trash bags, then hang it in direct sunlight for a day or two. the cosmoline will seep and melt out of the gun, and can be easily cleaned off the metal with a brush and paper shop towels/cloths., then the wood will seep for another day or so (wipe clean) until no more cosmoline appears at the bottom of the bag. replace the bags after each day of sunshine.
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As the weather has been cold and overcast until now, I was using a hair dryer in lieu of a heat gun to tease the cosmoline up to the surface of the stock and then wipe it away. I just hope I'm not removing the original wood finish in the process. But most of the wood seems cosmoline-free, it appears mostly concentrated near the receiver, where the stock is darkest. I'm just hoping that if I can get most of the cosmoline out of the stock, the coloration of the wood will more closely resemble its original state.
 
millais said:
I'm just hoping that if I can get most of the cosmoline out of the stock, the coloration of the wood will more closely resemble its original state.
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generally these stocks are laminated or shellac'd hardwood. boiled tung oil or linseed oil applied in thin coats with a wide brush will replace and restore the original appearance extremely well (and is often used as a rifle finish in its own right traditionally). feel free to sand lightly with 0000 wool to get a hold in the old finish if you don't plan on removing it.

if the finish is in good condition but very dirty, use mineral spirits applied to a cloth to buff the wood to a shine.

do not apply mineral spirits to blued metal. it is a solvent and will remove old bluing.
 
Club Sandwich said:
generally these stocks are laminated or shellac'd hardwood. boiled tung oil or linseed oil applied in thin coats with a wide brush will restore the original appearance extremely well (and is often used as a rifle finish in its own right traditionally).
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Huh, so cosmoline isn't responsible for discoloration of wood? And my ersatz heat-gun treatment may be stripping the existing finish?
 
millais said:
Huh, so cosmoline isn't responsible for discoloration of wood? And my ersatz heat-gun treatment may be stripping the existing finish?
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cosmoline is a long chain oil compound with a waxy composition over exposure to oxygen as the volatile petroleum portion evaporates over time. the wax isn't readily absorbed in most woods or plastics and not at all in metals so doesn't discolor them directly. discoloration is often a darker, preserved, area whereas the lighter areas are simply aged and exposed to bleaching effects (UV, heat, et c).

a hair dryer might not get hot enough (~140F), but should work slowly and not damage the finish if done evenly.


once shellac is dried and hardened, heat is okay in small doses - sustained heat and moisture will evaporate it though. if you are intending to strip the shellac or lacquer finish you will need a stronger heat source. shellac delaminates, separating layers from each other and the wood which then discolors, weakens, and evaporates.

heat is great for removing old shellac for refinishing. if the desire is to keep and clean the original finish, use mineral spirits instead, applied thinly with a soft cloth in a buffing motion - it fills in gaps in the shellac and allows a few new layers to be added. add more shellac or boiled tung/linseed oil to bond everything together and obtain a desirable color, then seal it with a a wax or something appropriate.

lacquer, applied in many thin layers, is heat resistant and very durable, but can discolor over time and is easily scratched (it's quite hard and brittle).

varnish is used in some guns, but rarely. it's a decorative topcoat like shellac but with more solids. you can use most modern varnishes without any undercoat (called spar varnish in this way) on raw wood. aside from coloring and UV protection, it isn't very hard and offers little physical protection for wood, so shellac is often the choice with possibly a lacquer top coat in most guns made past 1870 or so.
 
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Club Sandwich said:
cosmoline is a long chain oil compound with a waxy composition over exposure to oxygen as the volatile petroleum portion evaporates over time. the wax isn't readily absorbed in most woods or plastics and not at all in metals so doesn't discolor them directly. discoloration is often a darker, preserved, area whereas the lighter areas are simply aged and exposed to bleaching effects (UV, heat, et c).

a hair dryer might not get hot enough (~140F) to damage the finish, but should work slowly and not damage the finish if done evenly.

https://youtube.com/watch?v=qVovaE9Kqbc
once shellac is dried and hardened, heat is okay in small doses - sustained heat and moisture will evaporate it though. if you are intending to strip the shellac or lacquer finish you will need a stronger heat source. shellac delaminates, separating layers from each other and the wood which then discolors, weakens, and evaporates.

heat is great for removing old shellac for refinishing. if the desire is to keep and clean the original finish, use mineral spirits instead, applied thinly with a soft cloth in a buffing motion - it fills in gaps in the shellac and allows a few new layers to be added. add more shellac or boiled tung/linseed oil to bond everything together and obtain a desirable color, then seal it with a a wax or something appropriate.

lacquer, applied in many thin layers, is heat resistant and very durable, but can discolor over time and is easily scratched (it's quite hard and brittle).

varnish is used in some guns, but rarely. it's a decorative topcoat like shellac but with more solids. you can use most modern varnishes without any undercoat (called spar varnish in this way) on raw wood. aside from coloring and UV protection, it isn't very hard and offers little physical protection for wood, so shellac is often the choice with possibly a lacquer top coat in most guns made past 1870 or so.
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Ok, hopefully I haven't stripped the original finish then. Thus far I've just been using the hair dryer to warm the wood where I think there's still cosmoline until the surface becomes glossy/damp before wiping away the wetness with absorbent disposables (which become stained brownish yellow), as per this guide: http://www.garandgear.com/m1-garand-stock-cleaning
 
Personally, I'm a fan of the Beretta 92FS and M9 designs. A great pistol in my book that doesn't deserve the hate it gets. Basically most of the hate directed towards the Beretta M9 is that "it's not muh M1911". Now I like the Colt M1911, but the Beretta is a good versatile handgun.

There's a reason why the United States Army (and nearly every other branch of the US Military) use the Beretta and have been using it since the late 1980's/early 1990's. It's a good all-purpose sidearm. Though they are going to phase out the M9 for the new SIG P320 design starting in 2018, since the SIG P320 is supposedly more modular and sturdy.
 
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