Mechanical Keyboard Autism Thread - Because Cherry MX switches get you laid.

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I have the V6 which I think is the "cheap" version of the Q6 and I'm really happy about it. I got it with banana switches, if I understand correctly they're similar to browns but the bump is higher on the keypress, so you get resistance right from the top. It pretty much feels like a rubber keyboard, but nicer.
Even without adding anything to dampen the sound it doesn't feel echo-y at all, but I think I'm a rather soft typer. Also I think having a heavy desk that doesn't reverberate matters a lot.
 
The butt isn't hollow and doesn't echo any unpleasant sound?
Not from what I hear with mine really nah. Here, I took a recording of it:


I've gotten used to it tbh but the one thing that might sound a bit weird with ceramic caps is the spacebar which kind of "rings" a little on mine, my other keyboard I have wooden keycaps and it sounds fine so it might just be a ceramics thing. I think that can likely be easily fixed by adding a better stabilizer for it, which they do provide as part of the package you'll get, I'm just lazy and haven't bothered. My switches are the Cherry MX Silent Reds, I made absolutely no adjustments or lube, just put the switches and caps on it out the box
 
What is the loudest and most obnoxious mechanical keyboard (ideally wireless so I no one can steal it) I can bring to work? I type really fast so I want to be extra horrible.
Model F Reproduction with a solenoid. It's not wireless, but it is damn loud. I've got a solenoid in my F62, and the thing is actually louder than a typewriter.
 
Since we're talking volume, what's a good options for silent linear switch? Wanna make something a bit less noisy on those nights where I'm burning the midnight oil and don't wanna bother other people.
 
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Unicomps are probably loud enough to aggravate viewers in a streaming setting. I used one at work for a while until it became clear that the noise was bad enough to disrupt nearby phone conversations.

I have a Logitech with their clicky GL switches that is delightful to type with, but I don't think you can get a model using those keys that does not come with the silly RGB lightshow.
The Logitech G413 SE, and only the SE variant, has just a plain white backlight for the keys, none of that pride parade lighting bullshit, and has a nice feel.
 
Hey guys. My trusty Microsoft Sidewinder keyboard is finally dying (a certain key combo no oinger registers) and I'd like to get a proper mechanical finally. But I'm also at a point in life where I don't feel like doing an autistic deep dive on a new hobby just to make a single purchase decision so I'm here to ask for help.

I'm looking for an 80%/tenkeyless board. I want something tactile but not loud, ideally a nice quiet sound so I can hear it but not loud enough to annoy my wife in our apartment. A little noise can be nice. Macros would be a good thing to have, and I'd like the ability to easily find replacement caps so I can decorate it. A volume knob would be ideal, and a lower wrist angle is too. I'm used to the sidewinder being low and flat. I know a mechanical will be a little taller. I'd like to keep it under $200.

Other "nice to have but not if it blows the budget" features would be programmable LEDs, hot swap switch sockets, and a heavy base. Wireless would be nice but that's not a huge deal as this is for my desktop.

I'm happy to build it myself, although I don't want to do any soldering right now.

What models should I look at? If it blows the budget a little I'll consider it.
 
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Excuse the late reply. Real life took over.

Sounds like the build quality is solid. Which was one of my concerns. Another one was if you had to take advantage of support/warranty - how was it?

Thanks.
The build couldn't be more solid, the older models are cast zinc, you could club someone to death with it and then go right back to typing. The new models are cast aluminium, so less sturdy cases, but I haven't seen anyone complain about them being flimsy. The plates inside are thick sheet steel regardless of model, so the typing feel would be identical. The cases are two parts bolted together, with the steel plates that comprise the actual keyboard sandwiched between them. Easy enough to open up, should you need to. There are no case feet, so if you want to tilt the keyboard you'll need to glue on wedges made from wood or 3D printing or whatever means is easiest for you. I find the default is pretty comfortable, so I haven't done anything like that (there's a slight natural curve to the keys, identical to real Model F/M keyboards). One issue I've seen complaints about has been the paint wearing away, but that might be down to the hygiene of those specific users, my paint looks fine despite fairly heavy use. The stabiliser for the spacebar is also slightly too wide and may catch on the Alt and Alt Gr keys, but that was an issue with the original keyboards also.
Haven't contacted the maker for support/warranty, I've seen both good and bad there. One user had some scratchy keys, which the maker insisted wasn't real. IIRC the user solved this by removing the key cap and using a deburring tool on the barrel. Another user complained about a key binding, and was sent a replacement keyboard after some troubleshooting. FWIW none of my keys are very scratchy or binds, but there is a bit of inconsistency between them. Nothing I'd raise a complaint about, though. The big issue I see with support is that he uses Deskthority as the main communication, which is a very broken forum that hasn't allowed new users for years (the CAPTCHA is broken and doesn't let anyone through), but he replies quickly if you email him (I wanted to alter my order, he did so with no issue).
 
Got a TKL ducky one and I swear I've moved 5-6 triggers that I frequently use due to ghosting. Other than that, great purchase. People claim it's a good stock platform to buy new keys and shti but I've no interest in it. The default white RGB is tinted faggy pink-white which is exactly what I wanted, so. :)
 
Debating about picking up a 60% keyboard to replace my wearing out Kinesis Freestyle "Gaming" keyboard.

I saw on MechanicalKeyboards.com there is a sale on HHKB and same with HHKB's site. What's everyone's opinion on them? I've seen Ample Apricots' posts about it but just curious anyone else had anything to add. Though his complaints about the pipe key being in weird place is valid. If not the HHKB, there was a Ducky that caught my eye.

While I'm using a split currently, I'm not happy how it hasn't held up, didn't help that I got cherry reds instead of brown, and can't stand the ESC key being so far away since I use VIM keybindings on any text editor and IDE. I figured a 60% may be a step in the right direction. I own a full size ducky with Reds and liked it but don't like how it fits on my desk which lead to ergonomics problems and hence the move to a split.
 
i dislike about my 60% keyboard that i have to use the FN key alot, even for pressing ESC. i kinda miss having a full keyboard but its small and doesnt take a lot of space, the rgb is nice too.
 
Problem I had when I used a 60% wasn't so much the keys but it just wasn't compatible with any decent wrist rests and sometimes it would slide on the desk as it wasn't weighty enough/had less contact than the full size with wrist rest.
 
i dislike about my 60% keyboard that i have to use the FN key alot, even for pressing ESC. i kinda miss having a full keyboard but its small and doesnt take a lot of space, the rgb is nice too.
60% really does require you to set up your own hotkeys, and possibly to move the actual Fn key somewhere else (the standard spot, bottom right, means you have to use both hands, which can be annoying if what you're doing uses the mouse a lot). It took me a while to get used to 60% from having used mostly Apple's compact keyboards before, but now that I have gotten used to it and everything set up, I'm very quick with it.
Kind of important you get a keyboard that stores its config on the actual keyboard though, such as anything that uses Vial. That way the config transfers with the keyboard, and you don't need to keep bloatware running in the background of your OS.
Problem I had when I used a 60% wasn't so much the keys but it just wasn't compatible with any decent wrist rests and sometimes it would slide on the desk as it wasn't weighty enough/had less contact than the full size with wrist rest.
That's certainly an issue I've never had with my repro kishsaver.
 
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