- Joined
- Nov 14, 2012
The butt isn't hollow and doesn't echo any unpleasant sound?Nah you don't need to, I haven't found it necessary to add anything extra tbh
Follow along with the video below to see how to install our site as a web app on your home screen.
Note: This feature may not be available in some browsers.
The butt isn't hollow and doesn't echo any unpleasant sound?Nah you don't need to, I haven't found it necessary to add anything extra tbh
Not from what I hear with mine really nah. Here, I took a recording of it:The butt isn't hollow and doesn't echo any unpleasant sound?
I have one, it's brilliant.
Model F Reproduction with a solenoid. It's not wireless, but it is damn loud. I've got a solenoid in my F62, and the thing is actually louder than a typewriter.What is the loudest and most obnoxious mechanical keyboard (ideally wireless so I no one can steal it) I can bring to work? I type really fast so I want to be extra horrible.
The Logitech G413 SE, and only the SE variant, has just a plain white backlight for the keys, none of that pride parade lighting bullshit, and has a nice feel.Unicomps are probably loud enough to aggravate viewers in a streaming setting. I used one at work for a while until it became clear that the noise was bad enough to disrupt nearby phone conversations.
I have a Logitech with their clicky GL switches that is delightful to type with, but I don't think you can get a model using those keys that does not come with the silly RGB lightshow.
Excuse the late reply. Real life took over.I have one, it's brilliant.
What do you want to know?
The build couldn't be more solid, the older models are cast zinc, you could club someone to death with it and then go right back to typing. The new models are cast aluminium, so less sturdy cases, but I haven't seen anyone complain about them being flimsy. The plates inside are thick sheet steel regardless of model, so the typing feel would be identical. The cases are two parts bolted together, with the steel plates that comprise the actual keyboard sandwiched between them. Easy enough to open up, should you need to. There are no case feet, so if you want to tilt the keyboard you'll need to glue on wedges made from wood or 3D printing or whatever means is easiest for you. I find the default is pretty comfortable, so I haven't done anything like that (there's a slight natural curve to the keys, identical to real Model F/M keyboards). One issue I've seen complaints about has been the paint wearing away, but that might be down to the hygiene of those specific users, my paint looks fine despite fairly heavy use. The stabiliser for the spacebar is also slightly too wide and may catch on the Alt and Alt Gr keys, but that was an issue with the original keyboards also.Excuse the late reply. Real life took over.
Sounds like the build quality is solid. Which was one of my concerns. Another one was if you had to take advantage of support/warranty - how was it?
Thanks.
I suspected he would have this mindset based on his posting history.One user had some scratchy keys, which the maker insisted wasn't real.
60% really does require you to set up your own hotkeys, and possibly to move the actual Fn key somewhere else (the standard spot, bottom right, means you have to use both hands, which can be annoying if what you're doing uses the mouse a lot). It took me a while to get used to 60% from having used mostly Apple's compact keyboards before, but now that I have gotten used to it and everything set up, I'm very quick with it.i dislike about my 60% keyboard that i have to use the FN key alot, even for pressing ESC. i kinda miss having a full keyboard but its small and doesnt take a lot of space, the rgb is nice too.
That's certainly an issue I've never had with my repro kishsaver.Problem I had when I used a 60% wasn't so much the keys but it just wasn't compatible with any decent wrist rests and sometimes it would slide on the desk as it wasn't weighty enough/had less contact than the full size with wrist rest.