Land and real estate thread - Dox your 10 acres here

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It depends on the trees. Mesquite grows back faster than you can cut it, and makes for tasty bbq.

It does put out a lot of creosote, however. If I get my rusted out wood stove replaced, I think I'll be wanting to mass produce charcoal in order not to burn the house down.

Hey, Farm Road 1488! I know it well.
 
Great info on this thread. I'd like to plug a fantastic resource that not enough people know about.


The web soil survey is inestimably valuable for finding good land. In my experience, it is very accurate.
It is honestly the most underrated tool that the US government offers for free online. You can literally figure out almost everything you need to know about the soil for Farming and growing plants in general by viewing the soil series and specs of the soil in the area you select.

Most people don't know how to use this, but since I am nerd I will show you

go to this website:
Click on the big button.
click here - Copy.png
Find this Bar--> step 2 - Copy.png
and after zooming in or out, click on the AOI (Area of interest) to start drawing the area to analyze.
step 4 - Copy.png <--find this navigation bar in the left side, and set the AOI.

if your in a rush, or want to do a large area, go to this navication bar on the bottom left and select the county / area you want, and set it as the AOI
step 3 - Copy.png

Next find this soil map bar, and it should end up looking like this, with the various soil series and unique blends of that soil series on the map legend. Below is a soil map of a part of the lowest parts of Texas, Near Mexico. This tool does not work for any other country, (excluding the Puerto Ricco and other territories that are owned by the United States)
step 5 - Copy.png


Click on one of the blue unit map names for more infomation regarding it. To determine if the land will drain well, look for the Hydrolic soil group.

step 6 - soil group.png
A - D is used for classification: A is the sandy well draining soil and D is heavy clay soils that will not drain well ( water will just stay on the surface, and you will need to use French drains to get it to a better drainage so its better to farm and walk on)

Also to note, you can look up soil series listed in the unit name above using a google search to find out more informaiton about that type of soil.

Here are 6 different soil series for comparing what basic native plants grows in it, what you can find in each, and other pieces of information to research.

RIO GRANDE soil series

HAWI soil series

ANCHORAGE soil series

YLIG soil series

MARTIN soil series

GREATKILLS soil series
 
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I own many square miles of nice farm land with a house on it and since the grandparents passed no one lives there and I almost never go up there.

But I could never sell it our family has owned it for 100s of years. Sometimes I wish I had someone I could trust who’d watch over the land and home. Feels bad man!
 
I own many square miles of nice farm land with a house on it and since the grandparents passed no one lives there and I almost never go up there.

But I could never sell it our family has owned it for 100s of years. Sometimes I wish I had someone I could trust who’d watch over the land and home. Feels bad man!
Do you lease out the farm land? If it has a good field area it would be stupid not to. Having a tennant in the home is a whole different thing, especially nowadays with people squatting, your state laws also depend a lot on if that's worth it. You don't want to be stuck in a legal battle trying to kick someone out.

I understand how you feel, I quit my job to restore my 150ish year old family farm to a working farm again. It's a ton of work and doesn't pay the best but it's extremely satisfying. The family members 'taking care of it' before me were pretty much letting the place rot, they weren't willing to put in the tiniest amount of effort to maintain anything.
 
I'm not going to address any legal or zoning issues, but a great way to get a lot of land cheap is to keep tabs on tax sales. It's a crap shoot, but if you do pick something up you can get it far, far cheaper than market rates.

Most tax sale land isn't going to be nicely cleared and some may even be fully forested, but most land can provide some use depending on your goals so it's worth considering.
 
I'm not going to address any legal or zoning issues, but a great way to get a lot of land cheap is to keep tabs on tax sales. It's a crap shoot, but if you do pick something up you can get it far, far cheaper than market rates.

Most tax sale land isn't going to be nicely cleared and some may even be fully forested, but most land can provide some use depending on your goals so it's worth considering.
Depending where you are, fully forested can mean paying for itself. Timber is not cheap and even at the worst you usually can negotiate a discount on the forestry work to clear land in return for the forester keeping the logs.
 
I have a bit of land, I'll fill you guys in on some of the stuff I learned in acquiring, maintaining and developing it. My personal experience is in buying unimproved land and turning it into my home. I am not a farmer, a real estate man or a lawyer, nor an urbanite, an investor or a HOA dweller. I am a DIY homesteader.

Location. Good locations aren't cheap anymore. You aren't going to find 80 acres of nice flat land 20 minutes from your job for $1,000/acre. You will find expensive land or difficult and/or remote land.

Climate. Don't move to North Dakota as a Florida boy thinking you can just make it work. You need to know if you can handle the climate and its challenges. Take into account hazards such as being in a tornado or hail hot spot, hurricane zone, drought zone. These hazards will have a huge effect on your construction and lifestyle. Examples: it's a lot more expensive to build a house that will stand up to a tornado and you'll need a veritable bunker of a shelter, you'll have to dig a deeper well and take into account irrigation if you live in a drought zone, your insurance will be insane if you're in a hurricane zone. Etc. I've personally had both a tornado and hail on my land. If big hail ever happens where you are building, get at the very least a sturdy car port for all of your vehicles.

Topography and geology. You need to familiarize yourself with the topography of the entire area and its basic geology. You need to know where the highs and lows are, and have a decent idea what the soil and trees hide. You do not want to pick out some land, clear a spot to build a house, and find out it's downhill of something a mile away and now you've cleared yourself a nice little flood zone. Flood maps and zones are available but they are sometimes not granular or complete enough. Geology is massively important. Build in the wrong spot and you've turned your simple home well dig into something that costs tens of thousands of dollars because you have to pay someone to drill through hundreds of feet of hard rock. If you want to cut yourself a little airstrip you better pick something that has a nice flat area without many rocks. If you plan to farm you need to consult resources like the ones others have posted about in this thread already. Know where your local faults are, if you have any.

Utilities. Unimproved land means you're going to have to pay for an electric hookup. This will cost tens of thousands of dollars if you aren't already bordering some good distribution infrastructure and keeping a short run to your house. Underground is preferable from a safety, maintenance and reliability perspective, but costs more. You can feasibly DIY the wiring in your house with basic knowledge from books and code information, but not hookups. You can DIY the trenches and that's about it, you can't run your own cables or install your own splice and transformer boxes. The power company owns that and you will pay a handsome price for it. City water and sewer are arguably worse. You can DIY a septic system but you shouldn't because of the ramifications of it going wrong, your septic system has location concerns and interactions with your well all its own.

Defensibility. Chances are you won't be able to afford to fence in your whole property if it's anything more than a few acres, fencing is expensive to pay for and extremely time consuming to DIY. Consider what lies adjacent to your prospective property, you will have a lot of trespassers if you are adjacent to public land, or land that people treat as public due to an agreement with the owners. It is not fun to run into hunters, kids on dirt bikes, various flavors of retard, etc on your land and have to kick them off. If you're adjacent to a railroad you may have more bums using your land. If you're adjacent to an inner city you're going to wind up with people dumping.

Existing structures. A whole thread can be made about what you need to look out for with a house, this post isn't meant to be exhaustive so I'll focus on other structures. Barns are often unsound and demo is expensive, they are also less demanding from a code or safety perspective than a home. Many have dirt floors, you'll need one with a good concrete foundation if you're a car guy. Don't neglect the pump/wellhouse, it's important to keep your wellhead from freezing, shelter your pump from weathering, etc. It may need conversion from mechanical to electric if the installation is old, and will need a heat source if you're in the bitter cold. Power transmission lines and associated towers come with rights of way for the power company and present an added lightning hazard, and electrical interference issues if you are a HAM (many homestead types are). Inspect any structures closely. Pay an inspector who knows what they're looking for with inhabitable structures.

Roads/driveways. Here's something you can DIY entirely if you want. You can rent equipment or buy it cheap and broken if you fancy yourself the next diesel creek or Marty T (youtube channels somewhat relevant to this post, you can learn a bit from them). A cleared, leveled and graveled drive is perfectly usable for most cases but may present issues in the winter time, which you must take into account. If you love stupid cars like I do, you'll want to pave all the way up to the main road which is very expensive. I did this and screwed up the concrete in a section of it because I waited too long before starting it and getting screwed by weather. Removing the old concrete was ass.

Wildlife. You can run into issues if endangered wildlife resides upon your land. You need to be aware of your local wildlife from common to rare, from harmless to dangerous. Unless you are a psychopath, you will not want to harm vulnerable animals. If you are a psychopath, go live in a city and mess with bums and illegals, leave the animals alone.

Legal bullshit. You need to be sure of the borders, a survey is prudent. Familiarize yourself with the zoning, tax laws, and surrounding development plans of the area. In some places you can get homestead tax breaks, in others you can't and you will pay a steep tax bill if your area begins to develop and drives your property value up. You don't want to run afoul of zoning and development plans unless you are independently wealthy, and while you may get away with many technically illegal things in the boonies, if you're only in an up-and-coming area you may run into problems when the area begins to develop. Use an attorney to ensure that you do not run into deed issues or rights issues. Mineral, lumber, oil, etc rights can be an issue. If you buy a piece of land that has outstanding legal issues you are unaware of it can ruin your life.

I'm not an expert, I just have been through a lot of this on my own.
 
We have 84 acres of hunting land in WV all wooded. The biggest headache is keeping trespassers off. We've got signs everywhere and had to put a gate up because people were riding 4 wheelers through. Our family has owned since the 90s. Been thinking about building a cabin out there
 
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