Car Thread - VROOM VROOM

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What is your favorite car? (Top 3)

  • Ame Sea

    Votes: 9 2.4%

  • Ferd

    Votes: 81 21.7%

  • Chevus

    Votes: 33 8.8%

  • Crintzler

    Votes: 5 1.3%

  • Doge

    Votes: 41 11.0%

  • Beem Dubya

    Votes: 32 8.6%

  • Mersaydis

    Votes: 32 8.6%

  • Volts-Wagon

    Votes: 34 9.1%

  • FIOT

    Votes: 8 2.1%

  • Joop

    Votes: 23 6.1%

  • Alphonse Romero

    Votes: 9 2.4%

  • Vulva

    Votes: 35 9.4%

  • Teslur

    Votes: 10 2.7%

  • Mincooper

    Votes: 7 1.9%

  • Knee-Son

    Votes: 17 4.5%

  • Hun-die

    Votes: 13 3.5%

  • Toyoder

    Votes: 134 35.8%

  • Hondo

    Votes: 95 25.4%

  • Subrue

    Votes: 48 12.8%
  • Total voters
    374
Pee Cola said:
Yeah, the original iteration of the HFV6 (Alloytec) was a dog, but even with the improvements I'd strongly suggest a more frequent service interval.

Yeah, 10k service oil change intervals with high quality oil... sweet as. Whilst I'm still not convinced that the HFV6 will ever be as bulletproof as the old Buick 3800 or a Barra, you're doing all the right things to give the engine its best shot.

I remember when 10k / 6m service intervals were the norm. To be fair it's not just Holden where the 15k / 12m service intervals come back and bite the second or third owner on the arse; most of the Euro brands are just as optimistic with their service intervals too. And yeah... plenty of people bitch about Toyota's 10k / 6m service intervals, but when was the last time you saw a Corolla made this century broken down on the side of the road?

I'd rather spend an extra hundred bucks a year on oil and filters than thousands on getting a fucked motor fixed or replaced because the previous owner was a bozo who did 5k a year and only got their car serviced every 3 years because they conveniently ignored the "whichever occurs first" part of the 15k / 12m service interval...
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Yeah, oil is relatively cheap compared to a new engine.

As far as oil in a high mileage engine goes, I’m sort of in two minds about that. I chose not to deviate from the 5W-30 that these engines ask for with something heavier, and I feel like that was the right call. The engine was as quiet as a mouse when I bought it, and has remained that way after the oil change. The loudest things on this engine are the fuel injectors.

I don’t know what the oil pressure is, though, my scan tool doesn’t seem to have that, which is annoying. But there are no noises or anything with the 5W-30, so I’m of the opinion of not fixing something that isn’t broken.

What do you think? Would you go thicker oil in the same circumstances?
 
Doggo said:
As far as oil in a high mileage engine goes, I’m sort of in two minds about that. I chose not to deviate from the 5W-30 that these engines ask for with something heavier, and I feel like that was the right call. The engine was as quiet as a mouse when I bought it, and has remained that way after the oil change. The loudest things on this engine are the fuel injectors.

I don’t know what the oil pressure is, though, my scan tool doesn’t seem to have that, which is annoying. But there are no noises or anything with the 5W-30, so I’m of the opinion of not fixing something that isn’t broken.

What do you think? Would you go thicker oil in the same circumstances?
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I use Penrite Enviro+ GF-S 5W30 in my BF Falcon, which has 250k on the clock. Being a Barra, 250k is barely run in and the engine still runs like a top.

That said, 330k is getting up there a bit. I started putting 10W40 into my ex's Honda Jazz when it got a little tappety sounding around 200k or so. Other than the hint of lifter noise, it ran fine on the 10W30 suggested in the manual but I figured 10W40 wouldn't hurt. Last time I checked she's on around 230k, no more top end noise and still runs as good as new (the Jazz, not the ex).

A lot of it depends on where you live too. If you're somewhere like Victoria or Tasmania, you'd probably want to stick with 5W30... but if you're somewhere where it gets stinking hot in summer or is generally hot all year round, a 5W40 or 10W40 might be worth considering as the motor gets older.

I'm not sure if you've checked out the JustCommodores forum, but that's where I'd begin my research in your case.
 
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Volvo v40 cross country. Pre facelift, but I can't remember the year off the top of my head. Blue. It's younger than I'd prefer to buy, but it's still in that sweetspot of functional without being completely technofucked (it has "safety" alarms, but it let me turn them all off permanently, so I'm cutting it some slack).

Probably the first car I've owned where the leather seats don't make me sweat like a pig. AC works, no warning lights, decent power in the engine. I preferred the higher sitting position of my old car, but you can't have everything. It's nice to be able to actually turn the car on without something going wrong every time.

Want my old jeep back though. It'll be back on the road one day...
 
I went to pick up parts yesterday and the shop guy was out for lunch. Dealership man convinced me to sit down in a 2024 V60 Volvo and I don't know... I know the engines kind of shit but the interior is really nice, they might of got me boys. :(
 
Someone is selling this old Ford wind tunnel testing contraption on facebook marketplace. It is... interesting.

599938130_3948752892084407_8284158180506502109_n.jpg access-1983_ford_probe_iv_concept_car_interior_neg_cn34745_4.webp access-1983_ford_probe_iv_concept_car_neg_cn34745_1-copy-1024x576.webp
 
shinto minto said:
My brake pressure came back shortly after and now I hear a "whoosh" or "hiss" when I push down on the brake pedal.
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Whoosh, hiss, fart or squeel is brake booster going. They are cheap to replace.
If you have petrol and have a stumble/misfire when you press pedal it's due to vacuum leak
Look under the pedals if they are wet from brake fluid
shinto minto said:
The brakes seem to work in slowing the car down until the brakes are 100% depressed, and then it feels like they aren't holding.
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Might be bad master cylinder as well. They develop a ridge that unseats the oring and drops the pressure in system. It's pretty dangerous situation
Doggo said:
As far as oil in a high mileage engine goes, I’m sort of in two minds about that. I chose not to deviate from the 5W-30 that these engines ask for with something heavier, and I feel like that was the right call.
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Unless you have issues or there's a recall, stick with what is rated for car.
Modern oils also degrade differently and they can go very thin if they have lots of hours on them, so replace everything on scheduled interval.
If car doesn't burn oil or cause problems, you don't need to change anything. Going to heavier grade isn't going to magically fix things and can actually make them worse. It is just one of the last resorts before you ditch the car. The grade of +5-10 up doesn't actually make a big difference. You'd notice if you put in 20W50, but that's a significant increase.
Cars aren't that demanding on oil, just that it is there. If you keep revs below 4k, most of them will work fine.
Google.com said:
Someone is selling this old Ford wind tunnel testing contraption on facebook marketplace. It is... interesting.
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Interesting vehicle but probably no papers to drive it legally?
 
I wish this thread got half the traffic the gun thread gets. Posting a car I like.
Alpine-a110-1600s-profil-avant.jpg

I need to upgrade my winter beater from a rusty XJ I rescued a while back. I'm thinking of a AWD second gen CRV. Ugly, I'm driving the beater more these days and it's easier to get parts for a CRV + my XJ gets terrible mileage no matter what I do to it. Where are all of the first gen CRVs? They were neat little guys, but I never see them. Second gens are pretty cheap though.
 
God's drunkest driver said:
I wish this thread got half the traffic the gun thread gets. Posting a car I like.
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I need to upgrade my winter beater from a rusty XJ I rescued a while back. I'm thinking of a AWD second gen CRV. Ugly, I'm driving the beater more these days and it's easier to get parts for a CRV + my XJ gets terrible mileage no matter what I do to it. Where are all of the first gen CRVs? They were neat little guys, but I never see them. Second gens are pretty cheap though.
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The first gen CR-Vs all got crashed by the women that drove them. I get the appeal and would suggest that you should look at Elements too. They're artificially price-inflated but are great and absurdly practical cars.
 
I have heard Honda guys sing the praises of Elements but they are frankly overpriced for what I need. I don't really like 2nd gen CRVs because I think they're ugly, and because they're ugly and not old enough to be nostalgic yet they're cheap, but that works because I want something I don't give a crap about if someone slides into it on an ice patch. It doesn't snow a lot here, so with snow or icing conditions comes road chaos, and they salt the roads, it's why everything I care about stays home if I can help it until after the salt is rinsed away and I have a beater. I gave up on driving enjoyable vehicles in the winter long ago.

My XJ was a couple hundred bucks, rescued from abandonment in someone's yard after a transmission failure, I drove by it regularly for years before deciding to bug the owner one day. It looks decent and the interior is in good shape, but it's so rusty I won't take my kids anywhere in it and it has terrible fuel consumption so I'm looking to move on to something a little more family suitable.
 
God's drunkest driver said:
Where are all of the first gen CRVs? They were neat little guys, but I never see them.
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Everytime ive visited Cali I see a bunch of them driving around over there. Early ones are respectable cars had family who owned one from new got 220k miles before they let it go due to just a bunch of little issues that just got to be too much.
 
I'd love a 1st gen CRV because had a B20... granted it's close to the 6th gen so could K swap and stick was optional. The diffs won't take a ton of power but i mean I can dream.

Sexus has bewsssstttttttt few bugs to sort but it's drivable, at 5-7 psi... i'll crank it up a bit once i get the bugs sorted.
 
Bassomatic said:
I'd love a 1st gen CRV because had a B20... granted it's close to the 6th gen so could K swap and stick was optional. The diffs won't take a ton of power but i mean I can dream.
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The drivetrain in them is spindly as all hell. Looks like they pulled it out of an ATV.

Thiletonomics said:
Infiniti has named Eric Ledieu as their American division CEO.

View attachment 8493161

So that makes how many CEOs Infiniti has gone through in years? And he looks shockingly similar to the slain United Healthcare CEO Brian Thompson.
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Did the old CEO get run over at a takeover?
 
Flaming Dumpster said:
Why the fuck are people siphoning oil through the narrow dipstick hole?! Are there cars being sold today with only a dipstick?
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Theres nothing wrong with extraction if the car was designed for it and you use a proper extractor not some piece of amazon trash. Most mercedes (including all three of mine) have an oversized dipstick tube for extraction. Mercedes main dealers extract if your stupid enough to pay them for an oil change, ask them.

I've done extractions and removed the sump bolt after, only for a tablespoon or so of oil to come out.
Some modern cars have the sump bolt nearly an inch up the sump so a standard change is leaving like at least a half quart of oil still in and others have the sump split for crossmembers etc so theres always oil left somewhere. Plus if you've ever had to deal with a seized or sheared sump plug/bolt its not fun.

The trick is to park the car sloped towards the dip stick and make sure to get the oil roasting as in 40min drive let the car sit for 15 mins then commence. Most fuck ups with extraction is having the oil too cold and using a plastic insert instead of a metal lined one, which will melt/deform with the oil temp. I'd honestly not go back to draining from the sump now unless it was a 4x4 or something i can get under easy. Much cleaner too. Just remember to measure the oil coming out so you know how much fresh stuff to put back in, any decent extractor will measure the oil coming out in quarts or litres.
 
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