Car Thread - VROOM VROOM

[Torque Wheeler]

Well the search for a new car is going well. Actually finding a lot in the 2000-4000 dollar range, good ones. Might end up with a mid 90s Ford Taruas or Mercury Grand Marquis. Kinda want the Mercury, the mileage will suck, and will need to install a modern CD player, but that big trunk and V8 man is just calling to me.

Plenty of other cars too, many smaller, which is the much more economical decision; really it just depends on who calls me back and how much money I get for my wreck

V8s are sweet but if you're on a shoestring I can't stress the uncomplicated life that a Japanese 4 cylinder will give you (not to muh nippon too much). What year Fords are you looking at?

That being said, I've never had engine trouble with my 6.0L LY6 in the GMC Sierra. No variable valves or EGR crap on there to get gummed up. Horrendous gas mileage but it's on the company dime. The 5.9 common rail has also been deadnuts reliable, but I only use it to tow enormous things and for fun. My BT6 (kind of a turbo Miata) has been probably the nicest engine I've worked on.

 

[WelperHelper99]

V8s are sweet but if you're on a shoestring I can't stress the uncomplicated life that a Japanese 4 cylinder will give you (not to muh nippon too much). What year Fords are you looking at?

That being said, I've never had engine trouble with my 6.0L LY6 in the GMC Sierra. No variable valves or EGR crap on there to get gummed up. Horrendous gas mileage but it's on the company dime. The 5.9 common rail has also been deadnuts reliable, but I only use it to tow enormous things and for fun. My BT6 (kind of a turbo Miata) has been probably the nicest engine I've worked on.

Dude finding a Toyota or Honda cheap is hard lol. Fords and other cars around that are pretty easy to find. As for years... if it runs. But really around the 90's to 2000's, 130k miles ish. Really I just need it to roll. I can get better later on.

 

[Torque Wheeler]

Dude finding a Toyota or Honda cheap is hard lol. Fords and other cars around that are pretty easy to find. As for years... if it runs. But really around the 90's to 2000's, 130k miles ish. Really I just need it to roll. I can get better later on.

If that's the case, give the Buick LeSabre or anything with the 3800 engine some consideration. They're not cool, but super comfy, great gas mileage, stupid reliable, and decent performance. And they're dirt cheap.

My grandparents had a 2002 with a heads up display projected on the windshield.

 

[God's drunkest driver]

Grand Marquis is just regular panther platform with a nicer interior than a crown vic. They're plenty reliable and decently easy to work on but do not have good gas mileage.

Fun fact: if there's an issue with the taillight it will not run. The ignition coil primary is run through the taillight assembly. Very simple, but annoyingly so.

That's an interesting design choice. What does that thing do, 30mph? Is it for transportation or fun?

 

[Bassomatic]

If that's the case, give the Buick LeSabre or anything with the 3800 engine some consideration. They're not cool, but super comfy, great gas mileage, stupid reliable, and decent performance. And they're dirt cheap.

My grandparents had a 2002 with a heads up display projected on the windshield.

GM really likes HUDs.

So, friend of mine got an old (DA) integra for dirt cheap. Modding it turbo B series (non vtec) just a cheap setup. Well... I can't have him being faster boost or not. So, I've got cash sitting around, aside getting speakers for the Sexus, I called King Motorsports... finally getting my civic a full P&P job on the head. I'm at 193WHP now, I know mores on the table and I'll retune myself. Really amped I haven't done shit with my civic in like a decade. Just drove and enjoyed it, but what kinda project... doesn't get worked on and never finished?

 

[Torque Wheeler]

Grand Marquis is just regular panther platform with a nicer interior than a crown vic. They're plenty reliable and decently easy to work on but do not have good gas mileage.


That's an interesting design choice. What does that thing do, 30mph? Is it for transportation or fun?

Just about 30mph but it feels like 95 lol. The engine is doing about 9000 rpm from the gear reduction

+1 to the Grand Marquis those cars are made for geriatrics to wrap around telephone poles as they pass on to the next life

 

[baldo_giovane]

i'll get it delivered next week.

update:
it's real and got delivered, it's a memories II and not miracle (there's only the AC missing in comparison) engine sounds and look fine, just did 600km with zero issues. paintwork is really good and some parts look brand new (hood, fenders, trunk), interiors are really good, leather has no tears, just a discolored spot.

now the "bad" parts:
there's some surface rust. i've been told it's standard practice for germans to treat a bit of rust as "no rust". underside looks good, but there's small, max 1cm wide bubbles on the underside behind both doors. there's visible rust in the metal seams just in front of the rear tires. the alternator and pulleys are full of surface rust. i'm treating the body rust with some nice quality rust converter in hopes it stops, although i am pretty sure it won't spread much, here it's not as humid and cold as where it comes from and it's hotter year round so less salt on the streets.

it seems it was in a fender bender. the front bumper was resprayed (badly, there's a lot of overspray and orange peel), one headlight was changed, the hood too, but gaps are still very good and there's just marks left on the top of the bumper which i'm slowly filling/polishing away.
the utility belt is slipping when cold, making a squeaky noise; i'm not really concerned as the belt is new. i think it just needs some chalk + tightening.
there's electrical issues, mostly related to grounding and definitely caused by rusted bolts.
there's a bunch of plastic parts missing which i'm 3d printing, like caps, small buttons, etc.

overall it needed some love. i've already fixed some spots in the paintwork, cleaned the top, and fixed some electrics. it's going just fine, and once i have some time i'll hear what a mechanic has to say

 

[God's drunkest driver]

Rust won't stop with converter so if the long term condition of the car matters to you, you have to remove the rust fully then paint over the bare metal. Wire wheel and/or sand paper, clean then paint. Hopefully it's in a pretty hidden area, not easy to do in a pretty way if it is in a visible area, but a reasonably hidden a small spot of mediocre match paint is better than a rust hole. Rust bubbles unfortunately usually mean it's rusting from the inside out. It'll be a good economical car long term so you may as well try to keep it in good shape.

 

[ATI Escapee]

You got a rubber steering wheel shaft coupler? If you do and that breaks you will lose all steering. If not it could be tie rod ball joints rotted out. Best to replace soon.

Sorry so late. Fairly certain its steel not rubber but its gettin worse slowly. I wfh 80% of the time at least and wont go on the highway or anything right now. My tie rods were replaced very recently. Confirmed w mechanic the steering shaft needs replacing, and apparently both upper control arms too. Shopping around for more quotes because he quoted me 2300...

 

[Car Won't Crank]

Sorry so late. Fairly certain its steel not rubber but its gettin worse slowly. I wfh 80% of the time at least and wont go on the highway or anything right now. My tie rods were replaced very recently. Confirmed w mechanic the steering shaft needs replacing, and apparently both upper control arms too. Shopping around for more quotes because he quoted me 2300...

If there's no rubber coupler in the shaft, then is it the ujoint that's starting to fail? That's a lotta dough for just the upper control arms and shaft.

 

[Torque Wheeler]

Had a no start on the moped after the flywheel came off. Filed out the slot where the key on the crankshaft lives and still no luck. Timing is good and big fat blue sparks. Found rust clogging the carb jet. Then I spent a week trying different methods to clean the tank, and got the fuel coming out crystal clear, and cleaned the carb at least 4 times. Still no start. This means war. Took the carb off and shot starting fluid straight down the throat. Nothing. It has to be compression. Ripped the top end apart and found nothing bad, but then I exploded a piston ring trying to put the thing back together.

Eh, bought a ton of new parts last night including the rings. Maybe I'll just hone the cylinder and see if that helps? I also got a proper timing micrometer instead of my garbage one I made from trash

 

[Pee Cola]

Mercury Grand Marquis.

That's a fancy Crown Vic, isn't it? Based.

Even if the gas mileage kinda sucks, buying a bit more gas every week is probably still cheaper than a car note on some current year shitbox.

 

[baldo_giovane]

Rust won't stop with converter so if the long term condition of the car matters to you, you have to remove the rust fully then paint over the bare metal. Wire wheel and/or sand paper, clean then paint. Hopefully it's in a pretty hidden area, not easy to do in a pretty way if it is in a visible area, but a reasonably hidden a small spot of mediocre match paint is better than a rust hole. Rust bubbles unfortunately usually mean it's rusting from the inside out. It'll be a good economical car long term so you may as well try to keep it in good shape.

it's just small spots in non visible areas on the underside coating, i'm not that concerned tbh. i have a wire wheel and will cut out the bubbles, treat it with the converter, cover in anti rust then touchup with the right color

 

[WelperHelper99]

That's a fancy Crown Vic, isn't it? Based.

Even if the gas mileage kinda sucks, buying a bit more gas every week is probably still cheaper than a car note on some current year shitbox.

Actually it sold lol. Rn I'm in discussions with a guy about a 2003 Chevrolet Malibu, less than $ 3000, and less than 100k miles. 170 hp v6 too.

Stock image for reference. If all goes well tonight, I have wheels again, with full ABS brakes and AC, plus a CD player. And better fuel efficiency than my old car, because 3.1 liter over 3.5. The pictures I've seen of it show it in pretty good condition.

 

[ATI Escapee]

If there's no rubber coupler in the shaft, then is it the ujoint that's starting to fail? That's a lotta dough for just the upper control arms and shaft.

Yes exactly, the U-joint. I could have said that clearer I guess, my bad. Yeah the quote seemed a bit high....the part itself was like 700 just the u joint piece and I get that hes gotta make money but....ouch. Every shop around here says theyve been slammed for around 3 or 4 months, and they all say theyve never seen it like this. So it wouldnt suprise me if its a 'fuck you, what choice do you have' quote...Replacing all that is a bit above what I can manage myself though unfortunately

 

[Tour of Italy]

Actually it sold lol. Rn I'm in discussions with a guy about a 2003 Chevrolet Malibu, less than $ 3000, and less than 100k miles. 170 hp v6 too.
View attachment 5330610
Stock image for reference. If all goes well tonight, I have wheels again, with full ABS brakes and AC, plus a CD player. And better fuel efficiency than my old car, because 3.1 liter over 3.5. The pictures I've seen of it show it in pretty good condition.

For that money, a pre-2012 Ford focus is a good bet. I looked at Nissan Versa hatchbacks pre 2012, but make sure it’s not the Versa Note and that the Vin shows a 4 speed automatic and not their early CVT.

I don’t hate the Malibu.

Toyota Corolla/Matrix pre 2009, any selection of Honda Civic or Fit from around that time are nice too, but for your money you’re going to get higher mileage.

 

[WelperHelper99]

For that money, a pre-2012 Ford focus is a good bet. I looked at Nissan Versa hatchbacks pre 2012, but make sure it’s not the Versa Note and that the Vin shows a 4 speed automatic and not their early CVT.

I don’t hate the Malibu.

Toyota Corolla/Matrix pre 2009, any selection of Honda Civic or Fit from around that time are nice too, but for your money you’re going to get higher mileage.

Mileage is what matters to me, and I don't put much on in a year. If the Chevy is solid, at less than 100k, I can't ignore that. It's American built too. Wouldn't call it a fancy car, but very modifiable. Probably will trade the speakers out at some point. And I have thought of Fords, but again, mileage. Quite a few Taruas's from the mid 2000's in the area, pretty low, but it doesn't compete. I just want a box that runs at this point. If this one does at its price, I'll take it.

 

[Tour of Italy]

Mileage is what matters to me, and I don't put much on in a year. If the Chevy is solid, at less than 100k, I can't ignore that. It's American built too. Wouldn't call it a fancy car, but very modifiable. Probably will trade the speakers out at some point. And I have thought of Fords, but again, mileage. Quite a few Taruas's from the mid 2000's in the area, pretty low, but it doesn't compete. I just want a box that runs at this point. If this one does at its price, I'll take it.

Works for me.

If it makes a difference, Corollas, Civics and pretty much all of Subaru’s US lineup have been built in American plants for the last 20 years or more. You’d be supporting American workers even if they’re not American badges.

I went through a similar shopping phase and have a long commute, so MPG tended to be higher priority. I ended up putting in shocks and struts in my current car by myself and it’s working out really well, even if im still getting 24ish mpg. I’m starting to get the early signs of transmission problems, but I might be able to push it another 2 years/30000 miles.

 

[WelperHelper99]

Works for me.

If it makes a difference, Corollas, Civics and pretty much all of Subaru’s US lineup have been built in American plants for the last 20 years or more. You’d be supporting American workers even if they’re not American badges.

I went through a similar shopping phase and have a long commute, so MPG tended to be higher priority. I ended up putting in shocks and struts in my current car by myself and it’s working out really well, even if im still getting 24ish mpg. I’m to get the early signs of transmission problem, but I might be able to push it another 2 years/30000 miles.

That I did know about Toyota's lineup. I'd want a Toyota new tbh, so I can drive it into the ground, 400k miles later lol.

As for mpg, it matters, but my job is close enough I can afford it. Cross country I'd want something better, in the 30mpg range. Hope your car makes it 2 more years bro . It's sad to let one go.

 

[Car Won't Crank]

Mileage is what matters to me, and I don't put much on in a year. If the Chevy is solid, at less than 100k, I can't ignore that. It's American built too. Wouldn't call it a fancy car, but very modifiable. Probably will trade the speakers out at some point. And I have thought of Fords, but again, mileage. Quite a few Taruas's from the mid 2000's in the area, pretty low, but it doesn't compete. I just want a box that runs at this point. If this one does at its price, I'll take it.

Don't be so fixated on miles. If you're buying a 15-20 year old car, one with 100k miles will need the same kind of maintenance as one with 200k miles. Rubbers and plastics will degrade with age the same way regardless of miles necessitating the same kind of repairs. Only thing you might save out on are bearings.

That I did know about Toyota's lineup. I'd want a Toyota new tbh, so I can drive it into the ground, 400k miles later lol.

As for mpg, it matters, but my job is close enough I can afford it. Cross country I'd want something better, in the 30mpg range. Hope your car makes it 2 more years bro . It's sad to let one go.

If you want Toyota, check out the Pontiac Vibe. It's a rebranded Toyota Corolla and sometimes sell lower than their Toyota counterpart because of the name.