- Joined
- May 24, 2021
Very little, stay away from the toyota and later 90s dodge shit
Yeah I'm not putting much faith into that "tierods are supposed to be the weak link" sounds more like people are trying to crawl/mud too fast
Car Thread - VROOM VROOM
- Thread starter ArnoldPalmer
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Torque Wheeler
kiwifarms.net
- Joined
- Mar 20, 2021
If you don't know anything about car maintenance, there's a wealth of videos and forum for old diesels. For me, it's the 12 valve cummins. It takes 3 wires to run it. Perfect for an EMP scenario. For a truck like that you'll need to:
-Grease the drive line and suspension components occasionally (seasonally?)
-Change the diesel fuel filter every time with the oil filter
-Adjust the valve clearance occasionally (I do this annually on most vehicles, but I'm autistic)
-Change the transmission fluid, differential(s) fluid, transfer case fluid if applicable
-Rotate tires (seasonally for me. Depends on how many miles you drive)
Or just don't listen to me and get a Full Service Manual. Free online and at the library. They normally have a detailed chart on exactly what preventative maintenance you need to follow for what driving conditions the vehicle endures.
If you're trying to CIA proof yourself learn how to run WVO (waste vegetable oil). You can run your truck on the stuff that Chinese restaurants, diners, and donut shops normally have to pay to get rid of.
Send us listings of what you're looking at and we can tell you if it's a good deal or not pretty fast
- Joined
- Apr 3, 2019
Depends, most 90s trucks are known for having reasonably reliable engines but how reliable the truck itself will be depends entirely on the model and how it was taken care of. Every model has a list of common problems and even models known for their reliability (Rangers, Tacomas, Tundras) have their own issues that need to be addressed. A 30 year old vehicle is still a 30 year old vehicle no matter how you slice it.
You can’t have your cake and eat it too. You either get a old, simple, and unsafe machine or you get a modern one. And if you want a car without a computer you’ll have to go further back than the 90s. Even those trucks had ODB and an ECU to control things like timing.
- Joined
- Apr 19, 2021
You're in euroland right? Why not a 90s W460 or W461 G wagon with the diesel inline 5? Those are dead reliable and can be had in a manual.
- Joined
- Apr 3, 2019
I like how they call this “trucks that would last a lifetime“ but half of them are high performance low production models that would be incredibly expensive to buy used and very hard to find parts for. Also they list the 2nd gen Ram twice. Pretty sure this was written by an AI.
Torque Wheeler
kiwifarms.net
- Joined
- Mar 20, 2021
It's all in the name of keeping that nasty awful smog off our roads and our babies safer. No one can be trusted with a machine that only drives, it must have apple car play to be even considered a useful appliance.
- Joined
- Jul 3, 2021
I followed Deboss when he restored that old Kenworth COE. I'm a semi truck semi autist (heh) and that was a good series start to finish. Haven't really checked in since. I've only seen Steve Magnante talk about boomer muscle cars and Mopars so I don't really know much about him. He usually covers the Barrett Jackson auctions too.
My dad watches Dennis Collins' channel and that dope Auto Auction Rebuilds. Not interesting to me.
- Joined
- Nov 14, 2012
Why shouldn't I be able to get an simple, reliable machine and one that also has modern rollcages and shit?
- Joined
- Dec 3, 2019
Speaking from experience, YMMV: My family had a 1992 F250 XLT 2WD 7.3L IDI, we picked it up with the 5th wheel it was attached to (42'), and it came with 180k miles. It was down on power after sitting so long, but even still it pulled that 5th wheel up a retardedly steep hill after driving 60 miles home from its first start in almost 8 years. Once it was detached, it became my vehicle. It was long and took three lanes to U-turn, but after some minor maintenance ($400 total, installed new glow plugs myself because it was simple enough even with limited knowledge at the time) it drove another 20k without complaint over 4 years in every kind of weather you can imagine. Rain, hail, snow, ice, wind storms, and even a minor tornado. Using the block heater in the winter meant it would start even at -10 degrees outside. We ultimately sold it alongside the 5th wheel. If prices weren't so fucking retarded right now, I'd buy another one and use it as a farm truck because it was just that good to me and would be easy to work on.
Unfortunately, if you want one in good condition, you're going to pay way more than what you would want. The same goes for any older truck. They can command near or even greater than new model prices if you want truly low miles and great condition. If you want a reliable old diesel truck in good condition at acceptable miles, you're gonna pay anywhere from $13,000 to $17,000.
- Joined
- Apr 15, 2022
Why indeed. Blame the regulations and the consoomers for that for that. Modern safety is partially due to being surrounded by a cocoon of airbags though, any car without all of the side impact airbags and explosive seatbelt tensioners and such will just not be as safe, even if it had the same highly engineered shell and crash structure. There is no option for that is a modern safe but also old school simple, they're mutually exclusive. Especially since drive by wire has been everywhere since the 2000s. I've heard you talk about what you want on MATI and though you say you want a truck I honestly think a diesel W124 Mercedes is something you would like. They’re simple, rugged, economical and reliable and very safe for the era. W124s are all over eastern Europe and Africa because they are just so solidly overbuilt and well supported from a parts standpoint. Like anything else good they are pretty expensive now in the states, but there isn't anything that comes close to that level of rugged dependability and economy as an OM603 or OM606 diesel powered Benz. You're not going to find your manual windows in a US market Benz made after the early 80s though. Volvo 740s are also safe and rugged and may be available with manual windows, I can't remember. 90s/2000s 4Runners have been previously mentioned to you but they are very expensive now, to the point that I don't even consider them worth it anymore. They're really no more simple or dependable than a GMT400 Tahoe but way more expensive. In Florida, your old stomping grounds, they're also kind of rare, most were run into the ground by Haitians 10 years ago or more when they were cheap, just like every other Japanese SUV.
I only own classic cars, some of them are probably deathtraps by modern standards but I love them. I do all of my work myself, from maintenance to fabrication, so I hate working on anything modern. I can afford newer cars and with a family some probably consider it stupid that I drive around in 28yo + cars and trucks but I just love my old beauties too much. It's not like they're crappy, I've restored the ones that were and the ones that weren't are nice survivors. My wife has her 5 year old accord since she insists on a newer car.
I love classic cars regardless of whether the boomers like them, so I like Steve's history lessons. He has covered some imports as well. Deboss' content is really nice even if I am not really into trucks, my home is with driver's cars oddities, and fast modified but still streetable classics a la restomod.
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- Joined
- Jan 27, 2020
1990s Toyota dual cab.
Oil change every 5000 miles plus basic wear and tear items such as brakes, tires etc. That said, other items within the vehicle may be at the end of their useful life, such as the alternator and wheel bearings (but it's hard to predict when or if these items are going to fail). Engine, gearbox and diffs should still be rock solid though assuming the maintenance on these items has been kept up... which could be a tall order for a vehicle that's 30 years old with over 300,000 miles on it (though vehicles that are old but have been looked after since day one are still out there).
True. I don't think Null needs to be afraid of a simple ECU with early OBD/OBD-II capabilities. Worrying about being tracked by a 1990s ECU is like worrying about a Commodore 64's security flaws.
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- Joined
- Nov 14, 2012
I mean it looks like all vehicles started using drive-by-wire with direct computer control over the vehicle starting in the early 2000s, and we know for a fact the CIA was exploring options to use this to assassinate people.
I'd buy a 2023 if it didn't have any drive-by-wire.
I'd buy a 2023 if it didn't have any drive-by-wire.
- Joined
- Apr 19, 2021
That's the least of the worries. Anything modernish that uses EFI will have some computer running the car since around the 80s. If you want analog get something carbed, but those kind of engines have their downsides, more so than EFI engines I'd say.
Troonbolone Acetate
kiwifarms.net
- Joined
- Jan 4, 2021
at this point hes borderline wanting vintage which will cost a pretty penny and will require you to take very good care of the car
- Joined
- Jul 14, 2019
You also need an entry point to the system, and on most early OBDII cars that's going to be physical access where being based and analogue wouldn't have saved your sorry ass either. Something that's always connected to the internet (most notoriously the fourth gen Jeep Grand Cherokee where the infotainment was just directly hooked up to the CAN bus with no sanitation so some security guys could remotely drive the reporter's test vehicle like it was a fucking video game) is going to be suspicious, but if you drive something like an early 00's Toyota Hilux then you're infinitely more likely to be glowed on by other means.
Also you don't actually want a truly analogue car unless you have an inclination to wrench and a good space for it. EFI and distributorless ignition are fucking cheat codes for car engines.
- Joined
- Oct 28, 2021
Not a lot of maintenance. Some trucks I’d recommend are the gmt400 GMC/Chevrolet c/k1500 line of trucks. Parts of plentiful and everyone likes them. These and the gmt800 trucks are huge among the Hispanic auto community.
If you need an older suv I suggest a 2 door Tahoe/Blazer.
If you want to go older, a square body Chevy is a nice truck
- Joined
- Sep 6, 2017
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- Joined
- Aug 5, 2020
Hey! Is this a decent place to ask what would be the best car to look into buying with a budget of 10k?
I know very litle about cars, my first one was a hand me down and my second was a used prius that got hit by some idiot while i was coming home from work.
I didn't have collision coverage which was my error and there wasn't enough evidence to blame anyone so now i'm stuck trying to find new options.
My preferred brand is Toyota, and i'd like something fuel efficient.
I know very litle about cars, my first one was a hand me down and my second was a used prius that got hit by some idiot while i was coming home from work.
I didn't have collision coverage which was my error and there wasn't enough evidence to blame anyone so now i'm stuck trying to find new options.
My preferred brand is Toyota, and i'd like something fuel efficient.