3-D Print General - Feeding Printers Filament

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I would rather inhale sweet PLA fumes than the eye watering cancer inducing resin and isopropyl alcohol.
 
ASA is quite nice but boy do the fumes fucking REEK. I've been kinda on the grind of fucking with different filaments. Somewhat related... any of you guys make a PET recycler/pulltruder? The idea is kinda tempting.
 
ASA is quite nice but boy do the fumes fucking REEK. I've been kinda on the grind of fucking with different filaments.
It's awful and styrene sickness sucks too. I'm able to store my machines in a garage with a really strong filtration system which makes my life easier, but damn. Plus it leaves a gross film on surfaces.
Somewhat related... any of you guys make a PET recycler/pulltruder? The idea is kinda tempting.
I remember someone in thread talking about how recycling plastics denatures them and causes them to suck ass. I think it was @Orange Rhymer . He could be more specific but I don't think it'd be worth the overhead to build a setup to recycle your own.
 
I'm able to store my machines in a garage with a really strong filtration system which makes my life easier
Same, even built the printers their own R-19 insulated room in the corner of the garage. I forget that it seems most people into 3d printing are forced to squeeze it into their living pods, so I guess that would suck.
 
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Since we were talking about FDM minis I decided to print a random Space Marine that I found online in both ABS and PCCF. Honestly, I don't think either of them are passable for painting, but it could work for some kid who is getting into the hobby but can't afford it facilitate resin and only cares about having the minis but not how they look. These were with a .4mm nozzle because I'm too damn lazy to change the nozzle on my Voron.
 

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any of you guys make a PET recycler/pulltruder?
I did think about doing it but as most bottles only give a few grams of filament and you need to clean off glue with acetone, clean out the insides and reshape with a heatgun. I couldn't see it as being worthwhile to invest all the time/materials to do it. Like this guy uses 3kg of filament and an ender 3 to make a machine. It runs his for 2hrs and makes 30g of recycled filament from a 5l bottle, he would need to run the machine for 200hrs+ and recycle 100+ 5l bottles to even just get the original investment back. Unless you want to make it a daily ritual to recycle a bottle in that way I can't see the point, just spend the money you would have spent on acetone and parts to buy actual filament.

 
I would rather inhale sweet PLA fumes than the eye watering cancer inducing resin and isopropyl alcohol.
That’s actually something that pushed me into getting my K1C printer last year, I’d be printing in my room and I can’t really fuck around with the toxic fumes produced by resin.

I was looking into enclosures to see if there’s a way to do that whilst minimizing any exposure but I’m jost not sure if there’s a way to safely do it.
 
I made the admittedly ill-advised choice to buy a Core One. Expected to have a huge wait for it but the turnaround was like a total of a week. So far it's not a bad machine, however I wish more of these newer machines were designed around the notion that you'll eventually need to fix something. The nylon lock rivets fucking suck and I've already had to fight with a clog (granted my fault). It positively eats ABS/ASA which is great for my needs, but it's honestly not all that different from my Vorons or even the Qidi I bought not all that long ago.

I think we're on a plateau of advancement in the 3D printing space as far as FDM is concerned. It makes sense that we'd eventually have a "solved problem", but I was still hoping for some level of excitement. I guess the good news is at least now I can more strongly consider selling my X1 Carbon since that and the Core One may as well be the same machine.

As a bit of an aside, I realize the error of my ways in my Ender 3 slander. I was just retarded with my original and didn't have the patience to work on it. I've chosen to invest (too much) money into making a hot rod Ender 3 that'll probably wind up as a Switchwire whether I like it or not. Anyone have experience with tuning motors for 48v? A bit niche for sure, but I'm trying to lay down too much plastic too fast.
 
Had a pleasant surprise yesterday, my Centauri Carbon shipped early, I was expecting it to arrive in August. I've done a few smaller prints, those being the built in scraper thing and some silica gel holders to try and get a grip on moisture with the filament I have coming. Just set it going printing the 'black' parts on the Cynthia nerf gun thingy.
What's surprised me the most is just how refined and easy the whole experience of setting up the printer and getting going with OrcaSlicer has been. Anyone who isn't a complete retard could do this.
 
Had a pleasant surprise yesterday, my Centauri Carbon shipped early, I was expecting it to arrive in August. I've done a few smaller prints, those being the built in scraper thing and some silica gel holders to try and get a grip on moisture with the filament I have coming. Just set it going printing the 'black' parts on the Cynthia nerf gun thingy.
What's surprised me the most is just how refined and easy the whole experience of setting up the printer and getting going with OrcaSlicer has been. Anyone who isn't a complete retard could do this.
I know when shit just works you don't want to fuck with it, but I saw this mod that looks super useful and thought this would be the place for it.
 
I know when shit just works you don't want to fuck with it, but I saw this mod that looks super useful and thought this would be the place for it.
Thanks for the suggestion but I’m putting a Bento Box in that spot. It’s already printed and assembled, I just need to get power to it. And being the idiot I am I’ve set myself the task of, rather than just powering the fans like a normal person, the goal of using an arduino nano to control the speed of the fans. My plan is to have that arduino programmed with a bunch of “profiles” (predefined fan speeds) depending on the material I’m printing and to be able to select them using a few buttons and a 2.4 inch oled displaying the profile name as well as showing fan speed/handling the menus etc. I’ll be designing the case to house it all too as a first project to get to grips with modelling in Fusion. When I have it all working I do plan to share the stl/arduino code/wiring diagram so any farmers interested in following my stupidity can make their own.
 
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And another in my printing of dysfunctional parts.
A while ago I had a CNC router I was going to put together, I got the wires and limit switches done but not more than that. The mounts for the switches needed M2 screws, so I made slots so the nuts could slide but be tightened blind. If you tightened them too much they would spin since plastic is no match for a tiny hexagon nut.

Now, I bring you... v2.
I got a new CNC router, started playing with it and realized, yes, limit switches good. So I made a few upgrades to the previous design, this time using a sliding nut plate with threaded inserts(pressing in nuts would likely have worked as well).
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Now it can slide and not jam like the nuts.
Then it gets mounted on the CNC.
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But, as usual there's a catch, the Z axis has a support rod in the way, needing a wider stance to not try and screw it into that.
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The original idea for that was to drill into the side, but because of the width it would have needed to hop over that screw to the left or use it for support. But this worked, except I drilled the bottom a bit off and had to reprint the mount to compensate. It's fun drilling upside down that you can't really see.

The screws, unrelated to 3d printing, were also an upgrade. On the first version I drilled and tapped M3 holes. I broke a tap in one and had to drill it out, backfill with metal filled epoxy and then drill and tap to M4. This time I switched to "Thread Rolling" screws, which screw in and move the metal out of the way to make threads and work well on blind holes. Compare to "Self Tapping" where they actually cut threads, using a different size hole and often have less thread engagement because they have more reduced diameter threads to do the cutting but will work on steel but are best on plates with through-holes.

Now I suppose I should actually wire up these switches.
 
New 3D printer user here, got an Elegoo Mars 5, love it!

Does anyone know where I can torrent stls? Like the One Page Rules sets or Warhammer Fantasy bits?
 
PLA fumes have really grown on me. i'm very fond of it now.
This but Nylon fumes. It's probably horrible for me but I can't help but take a hit of the gasses being vented out of my enclosure every so often. If you 3d print enough you just have to accept the polymer fumes and microplastics in your bloodstream at some point.
 
Yep, gotta find the telegram channels for the good stuff.

Hopefully only another month of waiting to get my Athena II. I'm hoping the air release system is an absolute game changer when it comes to resin printing. The dev showed a 40mm cube fully printed using a single .5mm support on the corner since the air release reduced peeling forces by a staggering amount.
 
This but Nylon fumes. It's probably horrible for me but I can't help but take a hit of the gasses being vented out of my enclosure every so often. If you 3d print enough you just have to accept the polymer fumes and microplastics in your bloodstream at some point.
chills.
I've had enough exposure to polyolefins to last 4 lifetimes.
Please be safe guys. Use enclosures with Bentos and/or try to vent outdoors.
or use PPE.
Your grandkids will thank you.
 
chills.
I've had enough exposure to polyolefins to last 4 lifetimes.
Please be safe guys. Use enclosures with Bentos and/or try to vent outdoors.
or use PPE.
Your grandkids will thank you.
Hard agree here. PPE is important for sure but so is proper ventilation and environment. I print a ton of ABS/ASA and styrene poisoning is no joke. Take care of yourselves because you can't print another body.
 
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