Crime 'Black Women Continue to Be the Blueprint'—Is That Why Big Brands Keep Knocking Off Independent Designers?

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'Black Women Continue to Be the Blueprint'—Is That Why Big Brands Keep Knocking Off Independent Designers?​

Kai Collective is the latest Black woman-owned label to allege that her designs have been appropriated—first by Boohoo, and now by Italian luxury house Fendi.​

By
Maiysha Kai
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“Black women continue to be the blueprint,” tweeted designer Fisayo Longe on Thursday, after seeing some designs eerily familiar to her own in Fendi’s Resort 2022 lookbook. How else can you explain the fact since the U.K.-based Kai Collective launched its signature, ‘60s-inspired “Gaia” print last year, not one, but two other brands have been inspired to riff on the marbleized design that has been coveted by everyone from Saweetie and Jackie Aina to your very own style-obsessed editor here at The Root?

As Fashionista explains:

Earlier this year, Fisayo Longe, the creative director of Kai Collective, called out Boohooafter the fast-fashion company released product that appeared to copy the indie label’s artful proprietary prints. Now, the designer’s bringing attention to the similarities between her work and Fendi’s latest collection by Kim Jones.
Yes, you read that right. A 96-year-old legacy Italian luxury fashion house now helmed by one of the most acclaimed designers in the industry is being accused of ripping off the designs of an accessible Black-owned brand launched in 2016. Wanna know why? See below:
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“When we launched Gaia, there was nothing like it on the market at the time. There have since been so many copies but I am really surprised to see a brand like Fendi that I have looked up to for many years, do such a similar copy,” Longe said in a statement to Fashionista. “Getting press and recognition for your work takes years and it’s just insane that when you finally get recognition, it is copied by brands that are much bigger and more powerful than yours. The items are Resort 2022 so if they are released, we will send a cease and desist.”
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In fact, as Longe noted on Instagram, Kai’s next release, a robe in the orange Gaia print, was due to drop on August 15...”but we already have it ready to ship so should we release it today?” she asked—and for the record, it did indeed drop today at 7 p.m. British Standard Time, according to a subsequent tweet by Longe. The creative director also once again called out Fendi as she added their designs to her post with the caption, “embarrassing, no? Gaia dropped and the fashion industry just ran out of ideas???”
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It would seem so...and historically, the fashion industry has been notoriously lax on plagiarism. Thankfully, Longe hedged her bets on her highly addictive print, obtaining the copyright for the design in the U.K., E.U. and the U.S.

Of course, that didn’t stop some folks from trying it—likely under the assumption that a Black brand wouldn’t be wrapped as tightly as a more mainstream label, as Fashionista reports.

Despite these efforts, Boohoo released an almost identical copy of her prints back in February; armed with the proper legal protection, Longe went after the billion-dollar retailer, sending a cease and desist letter and demanding £30,000 in damages and legal fees, according to documents leaked by The Fashion Law. Per The Native, Kai Collective and Boohoo entered discussions and negotiations in March.
“I really really want small businesses to know that we have rights, because right now it feels like we don’t, “ Longe told The Native. “I want them to know that depending on the design, it might be worth spending on protecting it.”

Wishing Longe the best of luck in her litigation. In the meantime, we’ll be donating to Kai Collective’s legal fund by copping a few more Gaia-printed items.
 
With *very* few exceptions, black women have created nothing other than feral children.
 
"marbleized"

I'm pretty sure that sort of print has been used rather extensively at this point. correct me if wrong, however.
 
WE WUZ FASHUN DESIGNAZ

OK, let's turn this around and chastise black women for each time they "got inspired" by non-black fashion.
Literally all you have to do is hold these people to their own standards and their rhetoric gets destroyed.
 
"it's time for a copyright conversation"

nah
we've had to listen to people like you bitch and moan for years, time for shut up
 
Yeah very smart to go after the biggest luxury company with bogus claims... just sue Kering too so no brand will ever work with you again.
 
Part of being in business is hopping on trends and/or ripping others off. If someone makes something that's a hit, you're gonna get pretenders, ursurpers, and whatever other term you can think of. That's part of doing business, you being black is just a side fact. Where's the dividing line between copying and staying competitive, I dunno, but I know it's blurry.
 
This shit reminds me of the patterns they used to put on the seats in buses/metros/trains to help camouflage the stains.

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This is the main purpose of these negresses' designs too, so the qweenz can suck all the grease and meat off Popeye's chicken like baboons and fight other negresses before and during their meal without visibly staining up their clothes for afterward when they go to da club.
 
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Part of being in business is hopping on trends and/or ripping others off. If someone makes something that's a hit, you're gonna get pretenders, ursurpers, and whatever other term you can think of. That's part of doing business, you being black is just a side fact. Where's the dividing line between copying and staying competitive, I dunno, but I know it's blurry.
I know a guy who had some his personal pictures used in all sorts of context, usually commercial so he got himself a lawyer that send a bill to them for royalties. Especially his random picture of his antique car turned out so well that it popped up multiple different places because it's a very pretty picture and others thought it was actual old picture that do age didn't have copyright holder. He had everything needed to proof his ownership and that he hadn't sold the rights so the lawyer has do minimal paperwork and the other side has little to argue against. Turned out fairly lucrative.
 
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