Mega Rad Gun Thread

[Francis E. Dec Esc.]

I'm thinking of buying a good .38 revolver for my first gun. Something simple and practical. I don't want a semi-auto pistol, I prefer revolvers as they are generally lower maintenance and usually don't jam.

Any recommendations?

IMO avoid Taurus like the plague, and any other cheap manufacturers like Charter Arms and Armscor/Rock Island. Guns are very much a buy-once-cry-once type of purchase. If S&W and Colt are out of your price range, I'd look at the EAA Windicator series.

 

[Bassomatic]

Taurus is worse than the net says, honestly. I was gifted one for some work I did, what a pile of shit it's on a very short list of firearms I've sold. It had timing issues out of the box.

As mentioned before just go 357 for a lot of reasons being it's able to shoot 38, and if it's built to hold 357 38 will be near wearless, while a gun that can't handle hotter ammo will be more prone to failures. 38 spl is the oldest still manufactured round out there and super low CPI if you want to read a bit : https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/.38_Special

Also back to the 38 only revolvers, being they are cheaper and less robust, I don't know how much I'd really like to feed it +p ammo and those rounds are about on par with normal plinking 9x19 ammo.

Personally I'm a bit a Ruger fan boy, so you know who I'll suggest but you can't go wrong with Colt or S&W either, Charter is fine, but no where as good on fit and finish, priced accordingly though so if you want a decent work gun that's a good pick. I happen to really really like the Rock Island guns for what they are, they do have a 38 only wheel gun I've been eyeing just for the look and to add to my firearm horde. They are direct colt copies (much like their 1911s) I am unsure if it's old Colt tooling like the 1911s though.

Lastly the EAAs are soild, I only have a cz clone of theirs (because gotta catch all CZ75s) and I'm very happy with it.

Lastly, modern firearms don't jam much with out user error, so if that's your real reason to look at wheel guns, I'd suggest give auto loaders a fair look, by all means the best gun in the world is the one you feel safe with and know how to use, so I don't mean to say don't get one. It's just that is kinda an out of date statement about jam issues. Rare times a revolver fails it's often gonna be end of the gun and possible to take a finger or 2. When a say glock 19 fails, you just rack it back and back to blasting.

Sadly my wheel gun game is weak personally and I only have 2 nagants (ones threaded because dat gas seal) and they are honestly not worth the 89 dollars they command, they are that bad. But since never rule used firearms out old doesn't mean bad. I've taken deer with a rifle so old it legally isn't a gun anymore in the eyes of the US gov.

If you have say 400 bucks you could get a nice used Colt snubby 357 or a new Charter 38, I know what I'd take home.

 

[odius]

Taurus is worse than the net says, honestly.

The ONE exception to this rule is the original series of PT92 (and the M12,but that doesn't matter since it never got exported), since they used the original Beretta machinery to make it. Most of the ones from the 80s and 90s are pretty good substitutes for actual Beretta 92s, but the newer ones are just as garbage as other Taurus pistols afaik.

 

[Maxliam]

I'm thinking of buying a good .38 revolver for my first gun. Something simple and practical. I don't want a semi-auto pistol, I prefer revolvers as they are generally lower maintenance and usually don't jam.

Any recommendations?

Ruger SP101 with a 3" barrel. Big enough to shoot well for someone not used to handling a snubby, built like a tank so it's pleasant to shoot, and small enough for conceal carry if you desire.

It being a .357 means you can shoot .38 out of it and even +P and it'll be really pleasant to shoot since Rugers tend to be heavier than S&W's and Colts.

Not sure how experienced you are with firearms but you want to invest in snap caps (A-Zoom snap caps are my personal favorite) so you can practice with dry-fire drills including speedloading and also paying attention to how you pull the trigger and if you're pulling the gun off target. Shooting is important to get good at handling a weapon but people overlook dry fire training that helps you with handling your weapon properly.

Whatever you buy, train and practice a lot. You can't just expect to be proficient with a weapon just because it is of high quality. Tools are only as good as the user who trains properly to use them.

 

[El Garbage]

So, what model of self loaded assault rifle should I buy? It must be compatible with hi-capacity assault clips that hold at least 30 bullets, and having a barrel shroud is a must. Asking for a friend.

 

[Maxliam]

Nice try, Muhammad, no one's gonna tell you how to shoot up a theater in your native France.

 

[Bassomatic]

I feel the need to get good and drunk that means it's time to hit my reloading bench.

@Club Sandwich or anyone else who knows about hand loading. I'm thinking while I have some decent off shelf 9x18 jhps (Horandy 95g) for when I feel like carrying my mak, I bet I could do better myself any suggestions or ideas?

Mak's are great little carries and mines been neglected since I snagged my Walther CCP. For those unaware, it not only shoots bullets, it's a great bottle opener. I fucking love the insanity of Slav's at times.

 

[Francis E. Dec Esc.]

I used to carry a FEG PA-63 in 9x18mm before I got my S&W Bodyguard. It's a nice little Walther PP knockoff, but it has really harsh recoil because of the alloy frame.

 

[Club Sandwich]

I'm thinking while I have some decent off shelf 9x18 jhps (Horandy 95g) for when I feel like carrying my mak, I bet I could do better myself any suggestions or ideas?

use the Speer manual and try and find .364 bullets - Hornady have some ballistic tip FTX in that size i believe which can help with low velocity expansion. i've found that the 9x18 has a narrow window where JHP is effective. you can try experimenting with making some SJWC with soft cast lead and a gas check, but it's tough to handload for the Mak when surplus is everywhere. you will want to limit yourself to around 1050 fps for safety.

it has really harsh recoil because of the alloy frame.

i've found that a 15# Wolf recoil spring helps tame recoil for the PA-63 for most shooters that find snappy recoil annoying. if you want it to be softer but more ammunition sensitive, you can swap the hammer spring for a lighter one like the 11#. note that swapping the hammer spring on the PA-63 is annoying to do.

 

[D. Sweatshirt]

Birthday's still a ways off but I'm still thinking about a P38 one of these days. P1s are alluring but I've heard stories of frame issues on some of the earlier models. Any advice on what to do if I wound up shopping for one?

 

[Club Sandwich]

Birthday's still a ways off but I'm still thinking about a P38 one of these days. P1s are alluring but I've heard stories of frame issues on some of the earlier models. Any advice on what to do if I wound up shopping for one?

1. older P38's may have a white powder where the alloy frame and the steel slide meet. this is often where there has been contamination by moisture and should be examined for any rust issues.
2. cracks are most often in late war P38's at the thin part of the slide near the locking lugs. heat treatment here hardened the steel enough that it can crack with significant use. examine with a strong light for cracks.
3. the trigger bar and trigger bar spring are extremely easy to lose or dislodge. a P38 with this error will only fire in double action mode. the fix is aligning the TBS into the notch in the trigger bar so that the spring lifts the bar when the trigger is pulled.
4. the P38 firing pins are prone to breakage, the P1 firing pins are not compatible and were strengthened to prevent this. evidence of a broken firing pin is inconsistent ignition of primers and a distinct "ring" around the firing pin port in the breach block of powder.
5. original P38 magazines are rarely matching the pistol so don't feel bad about it.
6. any matte finish is aftermarket. all P38's are nickel, bright (polished) blued, or salt blued (poorly) by Mauser.

 

[D. Sweatshirt]

1. older P38's may have a white powder where the alloy frame and the steel slide meet. this is often where there has been contamination by moisture and should be examined for any rust issues.
2. cracks are most often in late war P38's at the thin part of the slide near the locking lugs. heat treatment here hardened the steel enough that it can crack with significant use. examine with a strong light for cracks.
3. the trigger bar and trigger bar spring are extremely easy to lose or dislodge. a P38 with this error will only fire in double action mode. the fix is aligning the TBS into the notch in the trigger bar so that the spring lifts the bar when the trigger is pulled.
4. the P38 firing pins are prone to breakage, the P1 firing pins are not compatible and were strengthened to prevent this. evidence of a broken firing pin is inconsistent ignition of primers and a distinct "ring" around the firing pin port in the breach block of powder.
5. original P38 magazines are rarely matching the pistol so don't feel bad about it.
6. any matte finish is aftermarket. all P38's are nickel, bright (polished) blued, or salt blued (poorly) by Mauser.

A thousand thanks. Which of the two is probably best to get ahold of overall?

 

[Club Sandwich]

A thousand thanks. Which of the two is probably best to get ahold of overall?

if you don't like the P1's issued to police units, try and get a late 50's through early 60's P38. Walther resumed production once they got their shit together (Russians stole the tooling and blueprints at their Ulm factory). in 1957 which held nicely until the change to the P1 in 1963 or 64. extremely early post war P38's have an aluminum frame, but most are steel.

 

[Paralethal]

Cut up my ARs:

 

[Francis E. Dec Esc.]

Did the same with my Springfield XD #oneless.

 

[The Sourdough Region]

I've been considering getting a S&W M1917 revolver for my birthday. I've seen them around me for a decent sum, but I'm trying not to get gypped. Anyone have advice on what to look for?

 

[Club Sandwich]

I've been considering getting a S&W M1917 revolver for my birthday. I've seen them around me for a decent sum, but I'm trying not to get gypped. Anyone have advice on what to look for?

stamps should be crisp with slight deformations where the metal has been pressed aside from the stamp - soft edges and a clean finish indicate refinishing.

as with any revolver, check the timing, lockup, end shake, hammer push, and other details.

there are a lot of M1917's out there, and should not cost more than a few hundred dollars in "shootable" condition.

 

[Captain_Asshole]

Alright, here's my toy (sorry for image quality):

It's a 6 inch barrel .22LR revolver made by ALFA, nothing impressive I know, but for target shooting it is just fine. I am not sure if I am going to keep it though, firearm laws and weapons laws in general are completely fucked up where I live and the government does all it can to make it as difficult (and costly) as possible to own and maintain a firearm, other than a hunting shotgun. Other than that I own some quality air pistols but I doubt these are of any interest.

 

[D. Sweatshirt]

Alright, here's my toy (sorry for image quality):
View attachment 389291

It's a 6 inch barrel .22LR revolver made by ALFA, nothing impressive I know, but for target shooting it is just fine. I am not sure if I am going to keep it though, firearm laws and weapons laws in general are completely fucked up where I live and the government does all it can to make it as difficult (and costly) as possible to own and maintain a firearm, other than a hunting shotgun. Other than that I own some quality air pistols but I doubt these are of any interest.

Is it an 8 or 9 shot model? Seems interesting.

 

[Captain_Asshole]

Is it an 8 or 9 shot model? Seems interesting.

9 shot. To add to my previous post, the only very minor complaints I have about the weapon are:
1. It is way too front heavy, but that was to be expected with my my choice,
2. The trigger is slightly heavier than what I expected, but that is remedied with practice, I simply got used to it.

Generally it is a very solid and reliable model.